TS55FEQ Ripping Blade?

[onocoffee]

Getting the TS55 FEQ and one of the first tasks I'm planning is ripping some 1/2" oak planks. Should I also pickup the wood ripping blade? At what point should I buy this blade?

 

[jeh]

Getting the TS55 FEQ and one of the first tasks I'm planning is ripping some 1/2" oak planks. Should I also pickup the wood ripping blade? At what point should I buy this blade?

With a thickness of 1/2" you will not need a ripping blade.

 

[Packard]

On my table saw, I always maintained both a cross cut saw blade and a ripping blade.

I also have a “glue line” blade, but I never saw any difference between that and a sharp rip blade.

About 5 years ago, I tried the Freud combination blade (I had tried several before this) and it turns out cuts as well as my rip-specific and my cross-cut-specific blades.

Saw blade technology apparently continues to evolve.

The stock blade on my Festool saw (also about 5 years old) works about as well as the Freud combination blade—better actually, with the benefit of the splinter guard.

Until this post, I was not aware that Festool makes both cross-cut and rip blades.  I don’t think I will go that route, however.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

It depends on the blade you already have. The one that comes with the saw is a fine finish 48 tooth, which is hardly ideal for ripping anything. The "universal" blade, with its 28 teeth would be much better.
I would say it probably depends on how much ripping you will actually do.  I would step-up to the dedicated rip blade, if it is more than rarely, especially if you need to go thicker.

I never understood why they don't ship with the universal blade? Doesn't that seem to be the most versatile for the most people?

 

[onocoffee]

It depends on the blade you already have. The one that comes with the saw is a fine finish 48 tooth, which is hardly ideal for ripping anything. The "universal" blade, with its 28 teeth would be much better.
I would say it probably depends on how much ripping you will actually do.  I would step-up to the dedicated rip blade, if it is more than rarely, especially if you need to go thicker.

I don't really do a lot of ripping and only have the blade that came with the TS55. I'll go have a look at the Universal. Thanks!

 

[Packard]

It depends on the blade you already have. The one that comes with the saw is a fine finish 48 tooth, which is hardly ideal for ripping anything. The "universal" blade, with its 28 teeth would be much better.
I would say it probably depends on how much ripping you will actually do.  I would step-up to the dedicated rip blade, if it is more than rarely, especially if you need to go thicker.

I never understood why they don't ship with the universal blade? Doesn't that seem to be the most versatile for the most people?

I am of the opinion that track saws are best suited for sheet goods like MDF, plywood, OSB and particle board.

I am also of the opinion that track saws are mostly used for those sheet goods.

And the fine tooth blade that ships with the saw is generally what you would want to cut those sheet goods.

But please note:  “I am of the opinion” is basically based on my use of the saw and seeing videos of it being used. I don’t have any data to say what percentage of the cuts are made on sheet goods.

 

[squall_line]

I am of the opinion that track saws are best suited for sheet goods like MDF, plywood, OSB and particle board.

I am also of the opinion that track saws are mostly used for those sheet goods.

And the fine tooth blade that ships with the saw is generally what you would want to cut those sheet goods.

But please note:  “I am of the opinion” is basically based on my use of the saw and seeing videos of it being used. I don’t have any data to say what percentage of the cuts are made on sheet goods.

Depends on what you watch or follow online.  Almost all of the furniture channels I follow on Youtube are building out of slabs and hardwood and use track saws to cut them down to size.  It's one thing to not want to hump around an awkward (but not terribly heavy) 4x8 sheet of plywood to a table saw, it's another entirely to try to wrestle a 200 pound, 10-foot long slab of walnut onto a table saw rather than just straight-line ripping it with a track and saw.

And this isn't limited to the TS75, either.

 

[Michael Kellough]

It depends on the blade you already have. The one that comes with the saw is a fine finish 48 tooth, which is hardly ideal for ripping anything. The "universal" blade, with its 28 teeth would be much better.
I would say it probably depends on how much ripping you will actually do.  I would step-up to the dedicated rip blade, if it is more than rarely, especially if you need to go thicker.

I never understood why they don't ship with the universal blade? Doesn't that seem to be the most versatile for the most people?

I am of the opinion that track saws are best suited for sheet goods like MDF, plywood, OSB and particle board.

I am also of the opinion that track saws are mostly used for those sheet goods.

And the fine tooth blade that ships with the saw is generally what you would want to cut those sheet goods.

But please note:  “I am of the opinion” is basically based on my use of the saw and seeing videos of it being used. I don’t have any data to say what percentage of the cuts are made on sheet goods.

If you’re picky (like me) you want even construction lumber to be straight.
The Festool kit can straighten 2x6 stock and the Mafell kit can even straighten 2x4 stuff.

Ripping blade is faster in both cases but if you’re super picky you might prefer the cut surface left by a combination blade.

 

[Packard]

I am of the opinion that track saws are best suited for sheet goods like MDF, plywood, OSB and particle board.

I am also of the opinion that track saws are mostly used for those sheet goods.

And the fine tooth blade that ships with the saw is generally what you would want to cut those sheet goods.

But please note:  “I am of the opinion” is basically based on my use of the saw and seeing videos of it being used. I don’t have any data to say what percentage of the cuts are made on sheet goods.

Depends on what you watch or follow online.  Almost all of the furniture channels I follow on Youtube are building out of slabs and hardwood and use track saws to cut them down to size.  It's one thing to not want to hump around an awkward (but not terribly heavy) 4x8 sheet of plywood to a table saw, it's another entirely to try to wrestle a 200 pound, 10-foot long slab of walnut onto a table saw rather than just straight-line ripping it with a track and saw.

And this isn't limited to the TS75, either.

You, like me, are basing the comments personal experience.  I do wonder if more people use track saws for sheet goods (as I do) or for making large slabs more easily handled. 

I doubt that we will find any data on this (though Festool or Mafell have assembled some data at some point).

 

[Cheese]

Getting the TS55 FEQ and one of the first tasks I'm planning is ripping some 1/2" oak planks. Should I also pickup the wood ripping blade? At what point should I buy this blade?

It depends upon what material you're cutting and what your surface finish requirements are. As a rule, I'll cut all sheet goods with the 48 tooth blade and rip soft & hard woods with the 28 tooth blade. However, around 1-3/4" and ripping hardwood, I consider changing over to the 12 tooth Panther blade.

Here's some aromatic cedar that has a Janka hardness similar to maple & cherry that I cut for drawer liners for a built-in dresser. It was pretty close to 8/4 thick and the TSC barely broke through the bottom surface when I used it on the rail.

[attachimg=1]

The bottom board is the cut using a TSC 55 with the standard 28 tooth blade while the top board is switching over to the 12 tooth Panther blade.

[attachimg=2]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

For the most part, I would imagine that [member=74278]Packard[/member] is probably right about sheet goods (with the TS-55 anyway) That is how I use it most of the time, but I am in a cabinet shop, so it makes sense.
The TS-75 is used very differently though. It's abilities far exceed sheet goods depth of cut.
It comes out for thicker hardwood chunks. Barn beams, mantle pieces, etc.
Just yesterday, I had to re-make a single stair tread that was mis-cut on-site. All that was quickly/easily available to make it was some 8/4 Maple. It was 11.5" wide and 9' long, but the part only needed to be 1.25" thick 12.5" wide and 48" long. It had to be made from strips about 3", to match the original step.
I cross-cut it with the PS-420 and ripped the cup out of it with the TS-75, before jointing/planing. It would have been rather dangerous to try to cut that with a table saw. Again, not everyday use-case, but definitely handy.

 

[Packard]

I bought the track saw because cutting 4 x 8 sheets of plywood was both difficult and dangerous.  (And a huge chore getting into my basement shop.)

I ended up with two roller stands for support for the table saw.

Not long ago, I single-handed a butcher block countertop (8 feet x counter-depth, and heavy).

The countertop was slid onto the first roller stand from my van, then onto two saw horses to cut to size.

After that I leap-frogged it into the house using the two roller stands and one sawhorse. It was slower than having a helper, but entirely manageable.

So, after you get your track saw, don’t get rid of your roller stands.  They might come handy.