Ts75 and CT36 AC - cutting drywall , I'm a believer

[Luzzy]

So a fellow carpenter told me once how they used their TS75 for ripping drywall on the job. I scoffed , until now. We are currently building a store in Long Island with thousands of feet of 6" x5/8" drywall rips required and maybe a thousand feet of 10" rips. Knowing our ts 55 and ct22 would not be up to the task, I ordered a TS75,ct36ac ,118" and 32" rails and am pretty amazed that I can rip 48' ( 4 12' boards+score the 5th)at a time.

Did I feel guilty taking a brand new saw and using it on drywall? Sort of. But the rips are factory straight,fast and the dust extraction pretty great too. I only wish Festool made a 150" rail for 12' cuts. The guide rail connectors are not so great compared with the Mafell rail/connectors.

All in all , this is a great way to do production drywall cutting. The labor savings will pay for this setup on this job alone. If you have wondered about this working, wonder no more. It works ! [big grin]

 

[batcave]

This is another reason that the FOG is so great. Glad it worked so well for you and thanks for sharing.

Kevin

 

[Saskataper]

I just bought a TS55 for the same reason, I'm into Drywall Art using layered drywall for stuff like wainscotting which requires cutting up a lot of strips. This saw is going to be awesome for that, I made a quick video of my first couple test cuts. I'm just wondering how long the blade will last cutting drywall.

 

[cnewport]

Did I feel guilty taking a brand new saw and using it on drywall? Sort of. But the rips are factory straight,fast and the dust extraction pretty great too. I only wish Festool made a 150" rail for 12' cuts. The guide rail connectors are not so great compared with the Mafell rail/connectors.

Could get one of these and (gasp) cut it: http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/guide-rails/tracks/197-guide-rail-fs-5000-491500

 

[Kev]

Did I feel guilty taking a brand new saw and using it on drywall? Sort of. But the rips are factory straight,fast and the dust extraction pretty great too. I only wish Festool made a 150" rail for 12' cuts. The guide rail connectors are not so great compared with the Mafell rail/connectors.

Could get one of these and (gasp) cut it: http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/guide-rails/tracks/197-guide-rail-fs-5000-491500

People do cut them! [scared]

I'll have the leftover piece thanks [wink]

 

[wow]

At first I thought you were joking about cutting drywall with a TS versus just using the old 'score and snap' method. But I am not a pro sheetrocker (not even a good amateur one) so I never thought about the precision you are working with.

How do you finish the edges of the pieces you cut? Do they go into J-channel, or remain exposed, or something else entirely? I would like to learn from you if you have the time to post?

 

[Luzzy]

At first I though you were joking about cutting drywall with a TS versus just using the old 'score and snap' method. But I am not a pro sheetrocker (not even a good amateur one) so I never thought about the precision you are working with.

How do you finish the edges of the pieces you cut? Do they go into J-channel, or remain exposed, or something else entirely? I would like to learn from you if you have the time to post?

Actually the reason I want something quick and accurate is because I have a lot of light coves to frame. After building many of these stores , we realized we could eliminate some of the tedious framing by using the drywall as a framing member backed with 2x2 20g angle. Note the plan detail below:

 

[Saskataper]

This is what I need to cut strips for. This job had 50 some wainscoting panels made up of 5" strips and TrimTex decorative  L-bead as well as all the doors and windows got cased with 2" strips. I wish I would have had the TS for that one.

 

[leakyroof]

What blade are you using in the TS75?

 

[suds]

Saskataper, after watching your video you could really justify getting the Boom Arm to speed up your process and not have to fool with the hose/cord getting caught/stuck on the rail.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

I personally think we should all be going down this route cutting drywall. With a plunge saw and dust extraction set up, compared to the all knife and snap method then clean with surform making a load of dust, or an old hand saw which you have constantly blow the dust off the line putting dust into the atmosphere to breath. Dust control on a lot of the uk sites especially the major house builders is getting stricter. In fact most will have it in there safety policy that power tools need dust control. A while ago I got a lend of mafell's mf26cc as demonstration which has being designed to work with plasterboard also I guess festool have designed there ts saws to be sealed against plasterboard dust as it is listed as one of there main applications. I know it might not be the normal way now, but I personally think in the future it will. Take the job of simply putting nails in. When I started it was the old hammer you didn't see many people using nail guns now it is the norm. Methods of working evolve and it is no use sticking to what has always being done. The advantages factory edges, cleaner work environment so not breathing as much dust, go home reasonably clean quicker especially if doing narrow strips. The only minus I can think of os the initial cost is higher but dust collection and plunge style saws and rails should be in every tradesmen kit of tools. Here is a simple video demo I did showing the old and new way. As you will see even with a simple cut with the knife dust and an untidy work space is starting to be created

 

[batcave]

I tried this today. Made short work of the job. I'll never go back now.

 

[peter halle]

Another twist is that if you hate drywall squares as much as I do, if you are willing to make two marks the rail can be used (the none plastic splinter guard side) and it doesn't slip with a razor knife.  Thumbs all over the world will rejoice!

Peter

 

[Luzzy]

Well tomorrow the NYC area Festool rep is stopping out to see us. He's intrigued by the use of it to cut drywall and asked if he could come by. I actually glad he's coming because Im wondering what setting the 36AC should be on for optimal dust extraction during this...

 

[tbellemare]

Another twist is that if you drywall squares as mush as I do, if you are willing to make two marks the rail can be used (the none plastic splinter guard side) and it doesn't slip with a razor knife.  Thumbs all over the world will rejoice!

Peter

I'm guessing you're talking about how I've also used guide rails several times with drywall, Peter.

I stand the sheet up, mark it twice, stick the back of the guide rail to the marks (and it stays stuck with a little pressure), score with a utility knife, and I'm ready for popping.

I'm a pretty coarse drywall worker so take all of that with a grain of salt. It is the easiest way I've done drywall shaping so far. I have only tried to get a good enough edge for rough work using that method. If I leave a protuberance on the snapped edge, I cut it with the same knife.

Based on all of the techniques I'm learning here, I might try treating drywall more like plywood next time...

I'm deep in a project that someone else made MUCH more difficult because they left big gaps. You get what you find in a remodel. I'm starting to think I should have used the track saw and cut a measurable gap that I could then fill with new board.

Maybe next time???

Thanks for all of your insights,

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Well tomorrow the NYC area Festool rep is stopping out to see us. He's intrigued by the use of it to cut drywall and asked if he could come by. I actually glad he's coming because Im wondering what setting the 36AC should be on for optimal dust extraction during this...

I've been cutting matched pieces of drywall with my TS-55 with a CT-22 for years. Turn the CT all the way up.

If you're cutting like size pieces neatly stack the sheets. Set the saw depth to cut as many sheets as possible AND score/mark the next sheet. Only one sheet to mark. For the 55 it cuts 3 sheets and marks the forth.

Most sheets I cut on a stack with the TS was 12-12'x1/2". I needed 48 12" wide pieces. I set the center of the blade on the 12" mark so 1/2 the kerf was on each sheet.

Tom

 

[Paul G]

What blade are you using in the TS75?

Wondering the same thing

 

[tallgrass]

Will not the cutting of drywall with the saw mess up the regular Festool vac? That is why there is a different vac for sanding drywall? You can get away with it for a little but it think the fine powder might mess up the regular vac, or are you using the vac that is meant for drywall?

 

[Luzzy]

Well tomorrow the NYC area Festool rep is stopping out to see us. He's intrigued by the use of it to cut drywall and asked if he could come by. I actually glad he's coming because Im wondering what setting the 36AC should be on for optimal dust extraction during this...

I've been cutting matched pieces of drywall with my TS-55 with a CT-22 for years. Turn the CT all the way up.

If you're cutting like size pieces neatly stack the sheets. Set the saw depth to cut as many sheets as possible AND score/mark the next sheet. Only one sheet to mark. For the 55 it cuts 3 sheets and marks the forth.

Most sheets I cut on a stack with the TS was 12-12'x1/2". I needed 48 12" wide pieces. I set the center of the blade on the 12" mark so 1/2 the kerf was on each sheet.

Tom

The 75 will cut 4 layers of 5/8" drywall while scoring the 5th. The scored sheet is the one used to cut the next 4 as you said. The CT36ac is different then the standard ct . You need to set the frequency of the AC function as well and there is also a dedicated setting for the Planex.....and it seems that setting the frequency of AC effects the initial suction. And obviously it needs to clean the filters pretty often to retain suction.

We are just using the 36 tooth blade that came with it and appears to work fairly well so far...

 

[tjbnwi]

What blade are you using in the TS75?

Wondering the same thing

I use a 48 tooth in my TS-55. Makes a very puuuurrrrdy cut.

Tom