TS75 blades all with same kerf width

amt

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I saw the post about the TS55, and I figured I might as well ask about the TS75.  Festool, as far as I know, does not have a rip & universal blade for the TS75 with the same kerf width.  After some looking around, the only brand I can find which does is Makita, and they don't seem to be available in the USA.  Anyone know of any other brands which would have a set of blades (low, med and high tooth count) wit the same kerf width?
 
+1

Can we confirm this is an actual issue (before I open up my blades with different kerf sizes and use them).

Can we get some examples for workarounds if there are any safe ones?
(I believe Carroladams has some workarounds with special shims for his production shop to use T55 and T75 together on same rail---perhaps something similar could be adapted for the kerf differences on T75 so at least one side of the blade (the side of the blade that aligns with the rail plastic---) matches correctly?

Can we get a petition going to have Festool make same kerf size for all blades on each saw respectively (or reasons why that isn't going to happen if its not a good idea etc.)?
 
For the TS 75 wood blades:

16 and 18 tooth = 2.6mm
36, 52, 60 tooth = 2.4mm

I don't know if there's a technical reason for the kerf differences.
 
Christopher Robinson said:
+1

Can we confirm this is an actual issue (before I open up my blades with different kerf sizes and use them).

Can we get some examples for workarounds if there are any safe ones?
(I believe Carroladams has some workarounds with special shims for his production shop to use T55 and T75 together on same rail---perhaps something similar could be adapted for the kerf differences on T75 so at least one side of the blade (the side of the blade that aligns with the rail plastic---) matches correctly?

Can we get a petition going to have Festool make same kerf size for all blades on each saw respectively (or reasons why that isn't going to happen if its not a good idea etc.)?

When using all of the current Festool TS75 blades, my experience is that the saw has enough adjustability so that you can set the toe-in to match the factory standard for the TS55REQ, which is the same as the last batch of TS55EQ sold in the USA.

Therefore we stopped using those special shims a few years ago.
 
bnaboatbuilder said:
That 1/10th of a millimeter difference (per one side of the blade) at the rail splinter guard would be 1/254 of an inch or 0.005". That seems incredibly small for the world of track saws as to need to worry about it. These aren't table saws when it comes to that level of accuracy.

Okay, this is where our experiences differ. I have owned and used state of the art table saws intended for making precision parts from plywood since 1946. In 1959 I added power feeds which were believed to increase accuracy of the table sawing as well as improve safety. The day I bought my first TS55 and several guide rails in 2006 I had intended to purchase a large sliding table saw. I had been using one of those, made in Germany, belonging to a friend.

I had always considered myself an expert getting the most accuracy from table saws. In 2006 what caused me to buy the TS55 and system was that I got the same quality of cut. With care and proper technique I had absolutely no problem making parts as accurately using the guide rails. An additional advantage was that the plywood was stationary on the sacrificial surface and the guide rail protected it from scuffing and scratches caused by the saw. That is always a concern when moving the plywood across the table of a saw; even with a slider table, some of the work is moved across the stationary table.

This is why beam saws have become popular in production. Like using a guide rail the saw moves through the work. Between cuts the air bearings lift the plywood so it is not scratched and scuffed. The pressure beams virtually eliminate tear-out. My CNC beam saw repeats day after day to 0.02mm and is absolutely square in all directions. Plywood with expand and shrink far more than that unless assembled immediately.

But with decent technique and accurate squares, the odd angle parts I make using TS55 and guide rails are as accurate as needed. A beam saw can only make right angle cuts and no bevels, unlike a TS55 and a guide rail. The slider saw can make those same bevels and odd angle miters, but not was rapidly as with guide rails. Also, since the wood needs to be moved twice for each cut on a table or slider saw, the physical effort is doubled.

But then your mileage might vary.
 
bnaboatbuilder, you may be right, but if I can get the exact same kerf, then I'd rather do just that.

As it turns out, the Tenryu 18 tooth blade has a 0.094" kerf, which is 2.3876mm, which is about as close as I could hope for.  My current festool blade is 2.4mm.  So it looks like I will not have to by a new set of blades to get them all the same kerf width.  I'll just use the Tenryu 18 tooth for rips and the 2.4mm festool blades for other work.
 
Someone on the FOG has mentioned in the past that there is more to it than just kerf size.  For example, the blade plate thickness could impact the cut line and it seems like the Tenryu blades use a different plate thickness than Festool.  I don't know enough about it to comment one way or the other.

See Svar's post here:
Tenryu kerf
 
Yes, it looks like I would need a shim to make up for the plate thickness.
 
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