TS75 VS TS55

[BlueMaxx]

Hello,
I am in the process of stepping into the Festool system. I know this is a subjective question but I was hoping some actual users could chime in. I am doing finish carpentry and also furniture building in which I use alot solid wood in my work.  I am not concerned with the cost factor, I am really more interested in the weight and the fact it is just a bigger saw. I like the idea of having the extra capacity, but know that it may get cumbersome having the larger unit. Does anyone doing similar work have any regrets for going with the smaller saw? or vice-a-versa?
Thanks!
MSH

 

[Tim Sproul]

For a 1-man shop doing custom work, the difference in weight doesn't matter a pinch.  When you're sawing, you aren't holding the weight of the saw, you are only pushing it through the cut.

If you are a production shop and your job is to cut enough sheetgoods to build the cabinets for 20, 5000 sq ft homes each day, then the weight of the saw comes into play.  Then again, you'd be at the helm of a slider in that situation...not a cheesy circular saw and guide rail.

Really, if the weight of a TS75 is too much for you, then you can forget using a Domino.  The Domino requires you to hold a lot more more weight for longer periods of time than using the TS saws.  The Rotex would break your wrist if you are so frail that the TS75 might give you carpel tunnel.  And lets not even talk about what it takes to move a 75# sheet of plywood around  .

 

[Steve Jones]

Damn, i think I just lost the title of conceited fat-head of the forum.

 

[monte]

Blue Maxx,

Welcome to the FOG forum lime green ski slope,

You're now standing at the top of the mountain,

just putting on your ski's....

Now, especially since you did this sort of thing for a living,

After all the analyzing, and all the research,

rest assured that by the time you get down to the ski lodge and pack your bags,

you'll be swinging both the TS55 & TS75 into your van.

You could convince yourself that the TS55 fits your weight specs and style,

but there is going to come the time that you need to make that one deep 6 foot long angle cut,

that you can't with the TS55 & then your going to spend all your time designing and building around it,

or heft through 8/4 stock of curly maple,

......and I'm not even going to go into all the other what ifs and therefores.

So your new mantra is........

The shortest distance between two points is the difference between the top and bottom of a lime green slope.

Roger

 

[Michael Kellough]

Weight only becomes a factor when you try to make the 75 replace a miter saw.

The only real draw back is that you need longer guide rails with the 75.

So, get the 75 if you want the extra capacity.

 

[BlueMaxx]

Thanks Roger,
I suppose being being at the "top of the slope" I just needed an informed push!
For me with the way the market and housing downturn is, it is a little scary investing in this system.
Not just from just a money standpoint but also since it is so different from my usual ways..but as the saying goes .........
In for a penny, in for a pound.
So I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I pull the trigger. I am having alot of cognitive dissidence even bofore the initial purchase!
I have alot of faith though that the Festool system will change my work in time and effort, especially being for the most part a one man band.
If I can get these spindly little arms to lift the tools that is
Thanks for your response...

 

[monte]

Thanks Roger,
I suppose being being at the "top of the slope" I just needed an informed push!
For me with the way the market and housing downturn is, it is a little scary investing in this system.
Not just from just a money standpoint but also since it is so different from my usual ways..but as the saying goes .........
In for a penny, in for a pound.
So I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I pull the trigger. I am having alot of cognitive dissidence even bofore the initial purchase!
I have alot of faith though that the Festool system will change my work in time and effort, especially being for the most part a one man band.
If I can get these spindly little arms to lift the tools that is
Thanks for your response...

Blue Maxx,

In all frankness, to comfort your soul and your pocket,

take a look at the pictures I just posted this morning on another thread about blades..........

http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=4613.msg50005;topicseen#msg50005

and scroll down to post #25 & #26.

......and tell me what other set of saws on the planet you could do that with on Plexiglas and cast resin without even a flinch?

I have both saws......  on the cast resin sculpture I chose the TS55 because of the awkwardness of the cut, (the lighter weight was preferred & it was also shallow enough for the TS55)

For the 1 inch plexi panels I started with the TS55 on the first, but finished off the other two with the TS75 because the weight was on my side for those cuts.

Roger

 

[Scott W.]

Hello,
I am in the process of stepping into the Festool system. I know this is a subjective question but I was hoping some actual users could chime in. I am doing finish carpentry and also furniture building in which I use alot solid wood in my work.  I am not concerned with the cost factor, I am really more interested in the weight and the fact it is just a bigger saw. I like the idea of having the extra capacity, but know that it may get cumbersome having the larger unit. Does anyone doing similar work have any regrets for going with the smaller saw? or vice-a-versa?
Thanks!
MSH

I struggled over this very question when I was trying to decide.

In the end if $$ doesn't weigh heavily in the decision, get the 75

The 75 can cut anything the 55 can but the opposite is not true.

My nickels worth.

Scott W.

 

[BlueMaxx]

Thanks everyone for your replies. It is great to be in a world where the consumer can be so well equipped.
Roger, that is an amazing piece of studio furniture. I cannot believe the cut did not mangle the plexiglass. I am sure the blade is a large contributing factor but still... 
The more things I see people do with the Festool equipment the more I can see a need for it. I was sold after looking at Jerry Works shop set up. Now I am ready to find a dealer. In my neck of the woods I have not seen one contractor using Festool and no local dealers save Woodcraft. I will have to find a Net dealer I suppose.
Anyway, thanks again
MSH

 

[monte]

Thanks everyone for your replies. It is great to be in a world where the consumer can be so well equipped.
Roger, that is an amazing piece of studio furniture. I cannot believe the cut did not mangle the plexiglass. I am sure the blade is a large contributing factor but still... 
The more things I see people do with the Festool equipment the more I can see a need for it. I was sold after looking at Jerry Works shop set up. Now I am ready to find a dealer. In my neck of the woods I have not seen one contractor using Festool and no local dealers save Woodcraft. I will have to find a Net dealer I suppose.
Anyway, thanks again
MSH

B/M

Glad to be of help, actually those plexi stands are part of a larger project that I haven't yet posted in the Project's section.
Take a look at the pics on post #73 on this thread for now....http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=3556.60

R.

 

[martingchapman]

Bluemaxx
Welcome to the slippery slope!!

I had the same dilemma, on the one hand the 55 is more manageable, on the other hand the 75 has greater capacity.
Can you guarantee that you will never need the bigger capacity of the 75?
Have you been along to a dealer and handled both saws?
I did this and found that the extra bulk and weight of the 75 was not excessive, I am on the small side, with small hands, but had no problem managing the 75.
As was mentioned in an earlier post, the weight is not an issue when the saw is running on a guide rail, and in fact it can be an advantage in helping to hold the rail in place so you don't need to use clamps.
For me I kept thinking how disappointed I would be if having invested a large sum of money in a saw, I then found that it was useless when I wanted to cut larger timber.
So I went for the 75 and have not had a problem with it.

Martin.

 

[Per Swenson]

Let see,

We have heard from "the conceited fat heads"
We have heard from common sense artists,
We have heard from the engineer,

Now its time for the wiseacre realist.
Get either one. Really doesn't matter.
6 months down the road you will justify the purchase of the other.

No?
I was and am the stingiest cheapest son of a depression era man you have ever met.
The first nickel, thats right nickel, I ever made is framed on the wall like a dollar in a pizza store.
I do manage to make my affliction humorous, so no one hates me....

But,  I own all four versions of the plunge saw.

That should tell ya something.

Per

 

[dirtydeeds]

and this.............

is the mad limey perspective.................  8)

im not the governer of california

so humping around large (heavy) tools every single day when you use their full capacity once in a blue moon makes no sense

ive had a ts55 for 4 or 5 years now, ive never needed anything bigger for finish work

55mm of cut depth deals with all standard sheets and worktops (countertops) you meet in finish carpentry

 

[tbellemare]

As Michael pointed out, the TS 75 requires a longer guide rail because of its longer base.

Until this year, both the TS 75 and TS 55 came with a 1400 mm, 55", guide rail (491498). Now, the TS 75 comes with a 1900 mm, 75", guide rail (491503).

Tom

 

[webfarmer]

I've been thrilled with my TS55.  I knew I wouldn't be trimming thick doors on a regular basis, and would mostly be dealing with sheet goods, or at most, 6/4 lumber.  Works great.

I have forearm problems, so I choose the lightest tool I can find.  The lightest drill (Festool), the lightest sander (Festool), the lightest saw (TS55).  No aches, no pains.

If you need the bigger one, Per has extras you can borrow   When a real pro like Per shares his experience, it's worth a listen.  No "wrong" choice here.

Brett

 

[BlueMaxx]

Roger I look forward to seeing your post on the piece. I have to quit reading Per's post or I will go broke!
Actually I am sure he is right, and hopefully I will be investing in more as my business practice shifts and profit allows.
On the post about guide rail length, I have planned to get the 106" rail so as to accomadate 96" sheet goods without having to join rails. The post below pointed out that now the ts75 comes with 75" rail (whats up with not making this at least the length of a 4x8) maybe I am missing something. One thing I have found is that the peripherals of this system are driving me batty on this initial purchase.

 

[Evergreen]

For me the choice was determined more by the rail lengths then the saws themselves.  I can fit the 106" rail in my 5x8 trailer on a diagonal just barely with the doors shut.  I couldn't do the same with the longer rail for the ts75.  To me this was the decision maker as I rely on the saw, guide rail, and of course the trailer on a daily bases.  Something to consider for those who are mobile craftsman.

 

[Tim Sproul]

I can cut the 8' length with a 2700 rail and TS75.

 

[Greg in Memphis]

I really don't know what these people are talking about when they say that you need a longer rail for the TS-75.
Both the TS-75 and the TS-55 use the same guide rail.
I use my TS-75 all the time on a short (32") rail for cross cuts.
It works great with that gecko set attached. Just put it down on the marks and make your cut.  I don't even need to use clamps. It takes all of about 45 seconds once you have your saw hooked up.

Greg

 

[Forrest Anderson]

I really don't know what these people are talking about when they say that you need a longer rail for the TS-75.

In that case, I suggest you read the following Question and Answer given in the Festool USA FAQ database. That should give you an understanding of why different guiderails are recommended for each saw - in certain circumstances:

Question:
What is the appropriate length guide rail needed to rip 8' sheet goods? 

Answer:
For the TS 55, the FS 2700 (2700mm or 106?) guide rail is ideal for rip cuts on sheet goods as you avoid starting with a plunge cut, and you finish with both guide rail gib cams -- the knobs to adjust lateral alignment ? on the rail for a perfect, straight cut.

The FS 1400 (1400mm or 55?) guide rail is perfect for cross cuts for the same reason, there is extra room to start and finish your cut. Two FS 1400?s can be joined using guide rail connectors to make an 110? guide rail to rip sheet goods.

For the TS 75, the FS 3000 (3000mm or 118?) guide rail is ideal for rip cuts on sheet goods as the saw table or is larger than on the TS 55 and requires a longer rail.

The FS 1900 (1900mm or 75?) guide rail is perfect for cross cuts for the same reason, there is extra room to start and finish you cut. An FS 1900 can be joined with an FS 1400 using guide rail connectors to make an 130? guide rail to rip sheet goods.

Forrest