TSV 60 chipout

[VH Benny]

Hi there,

i'm new to woodworking etc. and wanted to do alot of work for myself, mostly cabinets made out of melamine plates.
i bought this one to get clean cuts, topside is great but backside (bottom) has alot of chipouts, i've seen another topic here
with some solutions, i cut on a insulation panel (also tried on another piece of wood underneath, that's actually the cuts on picture),
the depth is set at 25 (material is 18) i also bought the melamine cutting blade from festool (same issue as with the original fine cut it came with)
but what i didn't see in the posts is about the 'toe-out', so i follow a video on YT, where in front a standard business card can't get between the blade
and the wood, and on the back side i can slide it barely in when i let it go it sticks behind, doesn't fall out.
There's also zero movement on the rail (adjusted that aswell with the tension thingy's) so it's not that it's moving around sideways.
So i'm out of solutions, hence why i'm reaching out here..

I'm from Belgium so there could be grammar faults here, i do hope i make sense

 

[Lincoln]

Try increasing the depth of cut, this changes the angle that the teeth hit the melamine and can reduce chipping.

 

[makpacman]

Hi there,

i'm new to woodworking etc. and wanted to do alot of work for myself, mostly cabinets made out of melamine plates.
i bought this one to get clean cuts, topside is great but backside (bottom) has alot of chipouts, i've seen another topic here
with some solutions, i cut on a insulation panel (also tried on another piece of wood underneath, that's actually the cuts on picture),
the depth is set at 25 (material is 18) i also bought the melamine cutting blade from festool (same issue as with the original fine cut it came with)
but what i didn't see in the posts is about the 'toe-out', so i follow a video on YT, where in front a standard business card can't get between the blade
and the wood, and on the back side i can slide it barely in when i let it go it sticks behind, doesn't fall out.
There's also zero movement on the rail (adjusted that aswell with the tension thingy's) so it's not that it's moving around sideways.
So i'm out of solutions, hence why i'm reaching out here.

I'm from Belgium so there could be grammar faults here, i do hope i make sense

I don't have any experience with the TSV-60, but I do cut melamine at times so I understand the issue. I was going to recommend to reduce the depth of cut to a minimum. That way the spinning teeth are not entering and exiting the brittle surface but just brushing past. The idea of deepening the cut could also work in so far as the teeth may also spend less time near the surface where chipping occurs.

Though it would not be a permanent solution, you might try blue tape or some other decent masking tape on the bottom just to see if it helps. I've had some success with that on the top of melamine with the TSC55.

 

[MacBoy]

Check out the good suggestions on this same question.

 

[arso_bg]

Hi everybody



I do not have the Festool TSV 60, but I have extensive experience cutting melamine with my Mafell mt55cc.

Looking at the pictures, what I have to say is that the picture doesn't look right from the top either!! And maybe this is where you should start. If your blades are new and sharp, you should get at the top crisp, straight lines. This might have something to do with the scoring blade settings... I can't comment on that…. but in any case, you should achieve two clean straight lines on top.

As for the underside, you can try a deeper or shallower cut - this may help. What will generally solve the issue with the quality of the cut on the underside is to place a sacrificial board under the parts that you cut

I hope these tips will help you.

 

[P_K]

There's probably a less aggressive toe-in setting that's specific to the TSV since it has two blades that need to follow the same cut path. From the photos of the top, it looks as though the scoring blade is misaligned from the rail which is giving you that odd looking waviness. Too much toe-in is probably also causing the main blade to enter and exit the bottom surface of the cut at an odd angle which is causing the chipping. Adjusting that angle to the bare minimum should resolve this.