Two 1400'S or a 1400 and 1010?

[Hotwheels]

I have a OF1400. There are times I need two routers. I was thinking of getting a 1010 because it is lighter and seems to work out of the box with the Festool shelf hole jig. However, I can also see an argument for two 1400's since the ergonomics and operation of both routers would be identical and I can use a PC310 for light weight edge work. Do you see an argument for having a 1010 and 1400? Have the OF1400 compatibility issues with the shelf hole jig been resolved?

Thanks
JR

 

[Ned]

Do you see an argument for having a 1010 and 1400?

Yes, although your particular situation's more important than any other argument.

I'm in the opposite position--I've got a 1010.  Should I get a second one or a 1400?

I guess one big argument against the 1010 as your second router would be the bits.  If you've got a lot of 1/2" bits, and don't want to buy 8mm (preferred) or 1/4" ones for your new router, get the 1400.  This point probably guarantees that buying a 1010 won't be cheaper, overall, than a second 1400.

The argument for buying a different second router is pretty much the same as for buying a second car.  I know a couple who have his and hers Jeep Grand Cherokees.  I can't for the life of me imagine why you wouldn't choose something different, whether smaller/bigger, faster/more economical, whatever.

Try to arrange to spend some time with a 1010.  It's a delight and I think you'll frequently want to use it.  There's a 30-day money-back guarantee.

The 1010 does a good job on laminate trimming, but if you've already got a laminate trimmer, keep it.  The setup is a bit fiddly--for any laminate trimming--and a dedicated machine's a convenience.

Ned
Who wants, but can't justify, a 1400 yet.

 

[Bob Marino]

John,

Ned spelled it out nicely...as usual. The biggest argument against buying the 1010 was its' lack of accepting 1/2" bits - this was by design though. For some tasks such as using the hole drilling set, edge work, laminate trimming, I'd think you'd find that the 1010 excles at. As for myself, I prefer the lightest tool for the job.

Bob

 

[greg mann]

This is a little like cooking with only one size pan. It can be done but who would want to. I really like the lightness of the 1010 but being able to use the power and 1/2 inch capacity of the 1400 is also a big plus, especially since many bits are not offerred in the 8mm shank. This pretty much dictates the popularity of the 1400 all by itself. That said, if I can use either one with an appropriate 1/4 or 8mm bit I will grab the 1010 first. It seems that I almost always use the 1400 with 1/2 shank tools. Having both is a great luxury. Actually, I also have the 2000 which is getting almost no use. I bought it before I found out the 1400 was coming. No regrets. I will find a good use, probably more dedicated, for it as it is really still a nice machine. I have a couple wild ideas floating around in the dark recesses of my brain that might make it to the light of day.

 

[bill-e]

Have the OF1400 compatibility issues with the shelf hole jig been resolved?

Thanks
JR

Jr,

Yes. Link

 

[Overtime]

I have both routers. 8) I got the 1400 for med to heavy work with 1/2 shanks , and it has been more than enough power and router for me. I got the 1010 for lightweight to medium duty work. Also for use with my VS600 system. When I think of using the 1400 on the VS600 (if it were possible) my arms ache. And later when I add the hole drilling system and the MFS guide kit, I think the 1010 is a natural fit. The 1010 is a very well balanced and accurate router with a very fine plunge system, and the fine adjustment features are tops. It is my all time favorite router. While it is small and light, it is about twice the size of a PC310.
  It will not take the place of the 310 IMHO. I am glad I have both (1010 & 1400) and not two 1400s , it fills a need in an area that the 1400 woul be overkill and the trim routers cant go. Both routers are what I would call "best in their class"

 

[Jim Becker]

I have one 'o each, John, and like that for the reason that another poster stated...smaller and lighter when appropriate and heavy duty when needed.

 

[Bob Michaels]

I also have 1 of each for the same reasons as Jim "The Saw" Becker.

 

[HowardH]

I have always heard to stay away from 1/4" shank bits because they have a greater tendency to break and is a big safety factor.  Almost all of my bits I have purchased are for a 1/2" collet.  Are the Festool 1/4" bits stronger than your average bit?  Is this argument without merit?  I'm getting a 1400 this year because of my bit situation but I would be interested to know everyone elses opinion.

 

[Loren Hedahl]

I've never broken a 1/4 inch router bit, even some of questionable heritage that I use a lot.

Maybe I'm just lucky.

Loren

 

[Ned]

Are the Festool 1/4" bits stronger than your average bit?

AFAIK, Festool doesn't make any 1/4" bits.  The 8mm shanks are a hair over 5/16", and much sturdier.

From the Festool Knowledge base:

What is the advantage of 8mm shank bits as opposed to 1/4" shank bits?
 
Answer :
The 8mm shank provides 58% more volume than a ¼” shank router bit. The greater diameter reduces vibration and is less prone to deflection or wobble. Festool carries a complete line of router bits in the European 8mm shank size.

The bits are first class, and as usual they're far from cheap.  I don't have any complaints about their value.

Ned

 

[HowardH]

If you are going to use a Leigh D series jig, don't they require a half inch collet which makes the 1400 necessary anyway? 

 

[Hotwheels]

I would like to be able to use a router with a D1600 Leigh I have ... The VS600 would be nice, but redundant? Based on the Leigh web information, the 1010 should work as well as the 1400 ..

From Leigh "... the D1600 requires a router with a ½" or 8mm collet to use with the included 8mm shank cutters. A ½" to 8mm collet reducer is included as standard equipment. A plunge router is also recommended for Isoloc templates but is not required for the D1600 and Finger joint template."

The light weight of the 1010 may swing it for me since I can use it with the Leigh I have ... Thanks for all the comments!

 

[bill-e]

If the D1600 can produce the full range of bits that the D4 can, and unless something has changed, there are some of the larger through dovetail sizes which require a 1/2" shank (#90, 100, 140, 150 and 160).

I have a pair of Milwaukee 2-1/4hp Body Grip routers which are dedicated to my D4.  I find the Body Grip ideal for use on a dovetail jig.

 

[Jerry Work]

Hi John,

My take on this question is to have one of each.  I eally like the 1010 size and light weight for many hand held and rail guided tasks.  I mainly use 8mm Festool router bits as they are very sharp, well balanced and I have yet to break one or find it in need of resharpening.  The limitation of the 1010 is depth of plunge.  The 1400 has plenty of depth of plunge capacity and does also take 1/2" bits if you need/want to use them.  I would not want to choose between them if I could only have one (in which case I would reluctantly select the 1400) as I find both in use all the time in my work.  Both have plenty of power and both do a good job at DC.  The 1400 ratcheing collet should be manditory on all routers, as should the snap on guide rings.  Hope this helps.

Jerry

I have a OF1400. There are times I need two routers. I was thinking of getting a 1010 because it is lighter and seems to work out of the box with the Festool shelf hole jig. However, I can also see an argument for two 1400's since the ergonomics and operation of both routers would be identical and I can use a PC310 for light weight edge work. Do you see an argument for having a 1010 and 1400? Have the OF1400 compatibility issues with the shelf hole jig been resolved?

Thanks
JR

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Hi John,

I mainly use 8mm Festool router bits as they are very sharp, well balanced and I have yet to break one or find it in need of resharpening.  The limitation of the 1010 is depth of plunge. 

Jerry,  If you use those bits half as much as I think you do, that appears to be a quite a strong statement about their endurance.  From looking at some of the projects you have posted, I have the sense you work primarily with hardwoods.  Are any of them topical types with known [high silica] bit-dulling properties?  Have you had a chance to compare the durability of the cutting edges of Festool's router bits against other major brands, e.g. Whiteside, Freud, Amana, etc. and Sommerfeld's Own (China), when cutting melamine, particle board, and MDF?  My reason for asking is that I already own a lot of router bits, mostly 1/2 inch shank carbide, and am currently in the market for some additional "workhorse" bits that are expected to get a lot of use in cutting these man-made sheet materials for making shop storage items.  These man-made materials seem to more quickly dull bits than native USA natural hardwoods.

 

[Hotwheels]

This is useful comment and I appreciate insights from all of you seasoned wood workers! While there is no clear answer -- other than buy another 1400 and a 1010 -- it seems there is value in the 1010 that complements the 1400 I already have, so now if I could just figure out this MFS thing I will order the 1010 and some bits.

Thanks again,
JR

 

[Jerry Work]

H:i Dave,

I do work mainly in hard woods.  The only man made material I employ is Baltic Birch plywood and then rarely so I do not have experience with how well the router bits would hold up to the pressed products.  I do have a drawer full of 1/2" bits from all the high end folks and simply find the Festool bits sharper and better balanced across the board.  Yes, this is a strong endorsement, but it is an endorsement earned in the shop, not because of compensation.

Jerry

Hi John,

I mainly use 8mm Festool router bits as they are very sharp, well balanced and I have yet to break one or find it in need of resharpening.  The limitation of the 1010 is depth of plunge. 

Jerry,  If you use those bits half as much as I think you do, that appears to be a quite a strong statement about their endurance.  From looking at some of the projects you have posted, I have the sense you work primarily with hardwoods.   Are any of them topical types with known [high silica] bit-dulling properties?  Have you had a chance to compare the durability of the cutting edges of Festool's router bits against other major brands, e.g. Whiteside, Freud, Amana, etc. and Sommerfeld's Own (China), when cutting melamine, particle board, and MDF?  My reason for asking is that I already own a lot of router bits, mostly 1/2 inch shank carbide, and am currently in the market for some additional "workhorse" bits that are expected to get a lot of use in cutting these man-made sheet materials for making shop storage items.  These man-made materials seem to more quickly dull bits than native USA natural hardwoods.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Thanks, Jerry.  Yours is exactly the kind of detailed response I was looking for.  I will plan on buying a Festool bit the next time if they offer the profile I am then looking for.  Before then I have a lot of bits to at least dull, if not wear out.

One other bit-related question:  Have you Jerry (or anyone else) experience with the Festool bits that have replaceable inserts such as Item 491078 on page 44 of the 2006 USA catalogue?  Although initial cost is more, those would seem to be a wise purchase for anyone working regularly with man-made materials and laminates.  It's not clear to me if they are suitable for solid surface materials, but I have never worked with any of them.

 

[ccmviking]

I have both the 1400 and 1010.  I think of it much like my 18V Dewalt Hammerdrill vs my C12.  I used to use the Dewalt all the time for every task but once I got the C12 I don't even pick it up anymore unless I really need to use it for the hammer function or If I'm cutting 5"-7" holes or something.  I had the 1400 first and used it exclusively... Now that I have the 1010 it's all I use unless I have to use a bit that I bought with a 1/2" shank.  Depending on what you are doing the 1010 is such a pleasure to use.  Try mortising hinges on a jamb or mortising for strikers and latches with the 1400.  It'll do it just fine but if you ever try it with the 1010 it'll seem like that old heavy Dewalt drill.  The same goes for using the VS600... The 1400 will work but it's a lot more fun using the 1010.

Chris...