Two questions about my TS55 .. cutting plexi and kerf width issues

mjozefow

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Jan 12, 2012
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Hi-

I need to cut up 7 4x8 sheets of 1/8" plexi. I wanted to know if th Oshlun/Freud/etc non-ferrous blades are any good or if I should spring for the Festool. I don't foresee doing more plexi after this job.

Also, has the kerf width/ rubber guide rail strip issue been solved? My searches seem to lead me to believe it is no longer an issue. Is that true?

Thanks
 
The Festool blades are all the same kerf width - if you get the current blades.  If your dealer turns over product slowly you might have an issue.

Regarding the other brands - did you check their kerf width?

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
The Festool blades are all the same kerf width - if you get the current blades.  If your dealer turns over product slowly you might have an issue.

Regarding the other brands - did you check their kerf width?

Peter

Even if the other brand blade has the same kerf there is no guarantee it will line up with your rubber guide rail strip.  Also, cutting thin plexi can be challenging.  I hope you can make some test cuts first. 
 
Brice Burrell said:
Peter Halle said:
The Festool blades are all the same kerf width - if you get the current blades.  If your dealer turns over product slowly you might have an issue.

Regarding the other brands - did you check their kerf width?

Peter

Even if the other brand blade has the same kerf there is no guarantee it will line up with your rubber guide rail strip.  Also, cutting thin plexi can be challenging.  I hope you can make some test cuts first. 

I'll stick with the Festool blades if the issue has been resolved.

Of course! I was thinking Plexi would be a perfect thing for the TS. I was thinking a 1" pink foam backer.
 
Peter Halle said:
The Festool blades are all the same kerf width - if you get the current blades.  If your dealer turns over product slowly you might have an issue.

You can check the packaging when you're in a dealer. It specifies the width of the kerf. The stock blade is 2.2 mm. If you see 2.5 on the package, it means you'll have trouble with the splinter strip. Look for something like 160 x 2.2 x 20. (diameter x kerf x arbor)
 
mjozefow said:
Brice Burrell said:
Peter Halle said:
The Festool blades are all the same kerf width - if you get the current blades.  If your dealer turns over product slowly you might have an issue.

Regarding the other brands - did you check their kerf width?

Peter

Even if the other brand blade has the same kerf there is no guarantee it will line up with your rubber guide rail strip.  Also, cutting thin plexi can be challenging.  I hope you can make some test cuts first. 

I'll stick with the Festool blades if the issue has been resolved.

Of course! I was thinking Plexi would be a perfect thing for the TS. I was thinking a 1" pink foam backer.
 

A backer material is a good idea.  If your plexi is brittle you may have to sandwich it to prevent cracking/shattering.  Be sure to use the screw on green splinter guard too.    
 
Tom Bellemare said:
At the risk of being repetitive, if the six-digit part number for a Festool brand TS 55 blade that you are sold begins with "496" and the blade is other than the Fine Tooth Blade, you will have the current blade and the kerf is 2.2mm. The Fine Tooth Blade has always had a 2.2mm kerf and its number is "495377".

Personally, I find it easier to remember specs than a less meaningful part number. And now there's two methods to be sure.  [smile]
 
Hi,

I have cut plexi with the normal 48T Fine  blade with excellent results.  I ran it at full speed and made sure to move the saw along quickly. Used foam board underneath. Be sure to plunge and retract  completely beyond the ends of the  plexi to avoid any dwelling. I did get some adhered shavings in the cut , but not many and they wiped off. Don't wipe them  or the edge with bare hand (leather glove worked well). That stuff is sharp.  I did not use the green anti- splinter guard (didn't think of it), so the right side of the cut was not quite as good.   I would definetly try the green guard, and  make sure to use a  new  one  or one that is cut to the correct depth for maximum effect. If the right side of the cuts are not good enough  you can flip the rail to put a new edge on , so to speak.
Definetly  do some test cuts.

Seth
 
I routinely break down sheets of plex and similar plastics. In fact, I keep one of my TS55 fitted with a Festool Aluminum/Plastics saw blade cat 469 307. This is the current style with a 2.2mm kerf.

Appropriately setting the green plastic "presser foot" splinter guard is important. But, be cautious. The danger is that the presser foot is moving with the saw while in contact with the plastic, which can result in scratches. My practice is to protect the top side of the proposed with painters tape which has been tested and proven to peel away away cleanly after the cut is completed.

Also, my long experience is that the sacrificial surface under the plastic must not be soft and pliable. That defeats the purpose. Often the plex I buy has protective paper on both sides. I leave that in place on both sides, which save the time of applying painters tape. Below the plastic I use 19mm plywood as the sacrificial surface. So long as there is protective paper the underside will not be scratched by the plywood. If the lot of plex does not come with protective paper, I use fresh roll paper.

I also cut far deeper into the sacrificial surface than I do when cutting plywood or other wood-like material. I want the bottom of the tooth gullet to clear the underside of sheet plastic. The good news is such plywood need not be expensive, just stiff and yet easy on the blade. I do not recommend MDF, MDF-Light or MDO. I handle the sheets of plastic using vacuum cups. I do have a powerful vacuum hoist, but with 3mm and 6mm sheets up to 5' x 12' the weight is light enough hand pumped vacuum cups are strong enough.

You need to experiment with scrap to find the best speed of rotation for the TS55 and also the best speed to push the saw. What you want to avoid is melting the cut and the chips. Therefore often you need to push the saw faster than normal, but with the blade spinning slower than usual for plywood.

Many of my friends use a pressure beam saw for cutting plastic sheets. I found that to work well. The reason I do not do this on my beam saw or CNC router is the problem of mixing the plastic chips with the wood chips. To me it is more effective to keep a CT22 bag around just for the plastic chips. I set the CT22 to max and use my newest 36mm AS hose. Cutting plastic is not something you want to do using non-AS hose!
 
You need to experiment with scrap to find the best speed of rotation for the TS55 and also the best speed to push the saw. What you want to avoid is melting the cut and the chips.

I couldn't agree more, Carroll.

The same goes in spades for a router...

Tom
 
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