Ultimate Miter Stand Plans are ready

JGA,
Regarding the size, if it is going to be in the shop 90% of the time, I would say go the full 4x8 size.  The size of the table you mention using as your base seems as though it may be a bit small for stability unless you are going to somehow mechanically fasten the tops and base (I still think you would be cantilevered quite a bit to make it a sturdy bench though).  Also, the first bench I made I did without using any rabbets or dados.  The butt joints are fine as long as you glue them it just takes a bit longer ensuring spacing and allignment, and can be a little messy.  I don't see any reason to use dominos on this bench.  Flatness should never be a concern with this design.... You just need to ensure a good sturdy base.  Just my $.02. 

Nate 
 
Jesus Aleman said:
Ron/Nate/Kreg, I'm in the process of building both benches, but I have a few questions for you.

What would you change if you were using this setup 90% of the time in the shop?  I'm thinking of making the top 3'x6.5' and use a 2'x5' table on caster as the base (instead of the saw horses). 
Is the top flat enough for your needs?
Do you see issues with using butt joints with dominoes instead of the rabbets?  I can see the all around rabbets being stronger.

Regards,

JGA.

I used butt points and dominos - has been sturdy; no issues.
 
What is your main use for the table 95% of the time?  What will the other 5% be ?

The 5%. Is what you need to make it sized for.

My 3 x 7. Size is perfect. I made to fit my van better I do not hAve a house on wheels like Ron has!!!

I love the size I make built ins. My last one had uppers cases that were 30" wide by 83. Tall they fit fine and was able to assemble on the work top

Casters are fine just buy heavy duty ones with all locking  casters

But make base wider so no tip factor

When you take it to job then you need saw horses and shelf.

Any way you will love. Kreg screws worked great.
 
Ron,  I have almost finished my ultimate miter stand and I thought I would share some pictures.  I made a few modifications and tried to use up some of my partial sheets of plywood that are always cluttering up the shop from past projects.  I used piano hinges for the folding saw horses and added a t-track/bolt so I could tighten the dovetails down.  I also put edge pieces on my extensions and I'm working on making that a place to stash guide rails.  All that's left is to drill a few more holes in the extensions.  Thanks for sharing your design/plan. 

Eric

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So on the plans it mentions using satin ply. I have never heard of such a material. I imagine I will just end up using whatever is lying around but would still like to know what it is. Is it similar to baltic birch?
 
In the plans, the use of staples is suggested.  While I can understand stapling the sides and bottoms to the inner ribs, how is everyone attaching the tops to the inner ribs?  While staples would certainly work, my concern is that they might damage the saw blade when the top is used as a cutting surface.  How has everyone done this?
 
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