Um duh - regarding height adjustment, why no vernier?

[woodwreck]

OK, I am sure this has been asked but I have searched throughout...  much has been said about specific height settings, but rather than a specific setting, I can not understand why a tool of this stature (and price) lacks a threaded vernier height adjustment of some fashion rather than nudging the lift mechanism, be it a threaded screw, rack and pinion, or any such thing?  ???  I have been scratching my head for the three years that I have owned my Domino and it is becoming old. Please enlighten me.

 

[Stone Message]

I have had no problems setting the scale to the accuracy that I need. I agree that some form of vernier might be a help for some but they would be in a minority and could over complicate the tool.

Can you describe the specific problem (what task are you trying to perform) that requires you to set the height to 0.1 mm or better? I am sure there will be plenty of offers of advice.

Peter

 

[fshanno]

I have no answer.  Just excuses.

There is the little stop thing and it works fine well when it is applicable.

As long as the registration faces are supposed to be flush it doesn't much matter does it?  If it's a half a millimeter off it's going to be the same half millimeter off on both faces so the joint will still be flush.

When it comes to different fence height settings for opposite sides of the joint I try to use increments that work with the stop.  For instance, my face frames are always a bit wider than the case and I try to make the difference match an increment on the stop.

Let's see, what else.  Okay here's something.  You can build story blocks at specific heights and use them to set the fence.  Just set the block and the Domino on your table saw and bring the fence down on the block.  The distance will be the height of the block minus 10mm.  Very simple, very accurate, very repeatable.

But in the final analysis, yes, a threaded vernier height adjustment would be very nice.   The Lamello Top 21 simply destroys the Domino in this area.

 

[Stone Message]

I think that the Domino is fine as it is. I have attached a picture, below, of part of my work from yesterday. It is a small table, made of oak, with (I think) 18 separate pieces of wood to come together for the basic frame structure (the drawer is not shown). I use 4 different sizes of dominos, some are specially mitred, and almost every joint is offset (do not rely on keying from the face on both pieces).

I had no issues doing this. It is exactly as planned and every joint is perfect (that is not self praise but a reflection of the beauty of these lovely tools made by Mr Festool).

Peter

 

[woodwreck]

I have had no problems setting the scale to the accuracy that I need. I agree that some form of vernier might be a help for some but they would be in a minority and could over complicate the tool.

Can you describe the specific problem (what task are you trying to perform) that requires you to set the height to 0.1 mm or better? I am sure there will be plenty of offers of advice.

Peter

Thank you, Peter - I guess much of the problem lies in my failure to have become satisfactorily metricized. Joining edges for a wider glue up is not a concern over the Domino being dead center. What comes to mind is butting a ¾" table apron into a 1 ⅜" (oops, there's those Yankee numbers again) and wanting the apron face set back by 3/16" or ¼" from the face of the corner leg.

Some Festoolers in their seventh decade  [big grin] or beyond with fat fingers just find a dial vernier adjustment of substantial value and seemingly inexpensive to manufacture into the device.

P.S. I just found a thread DOmino Height Adjustment or some such http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/domino-height-gauge/ that emphasizes not a specific value, but to nudge the final adjustment.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Woodwreck

I was brought up and taught in Imperial units and when we went metric I hated it and did my best to resist. After a while I was forced to use it and then I began to understand it and eventually think in it - a process that has taken a good 20 years. I would never wish to go back to the old system.

If I want to take a 3mm slice off a 20mm strip I know that the strip will then be 17mm wide. If I want to take a 1/8 inch slice off a 27/32 inch piece of wood I have to do more maths than is legal for an old guy like me to do!

Peter

 

[Trosey]

I have had no problems setting the scale to the accuracy that I need. I agree that some form of vernier might be a help for some but they would be in a minority and could over complicate the tool.

Can you describe the specific problem (what task are you trying to perform) that requires you to set the height to 0.1 mm or better? I am sure there will be plenty of offers of advice.

Peter

Thank you, Peter - I guess much of the problem lies in my failure to have become satisfactorily metricized. Joining edges for a wider glue up is not a concern over the Domino being dead center. What comes to mind is butting a ¾" table apron into a 1 ⅜" (oops, there's those Yankee numbers again) and wanting the apron face set back by 3/16" or ¼" from the face of the corner leg.

Some Festoolers in their seventh decade  [big grin] or beyond with fat fingers just find a dial vernier adjustment of substantial value and seemingly inexpensive to manufacture into the device.

P.S. I just found a thread DOmino Height Adjustment or some such http://festoolownersgroup.com/ask-festool/domino-height-gauge/ that emphasizes not a specific value, but to nudge the final adjustment.

Woodwreck.

I feel your pain. A screw, or rack and pinion device would be very helpful. The scale for the lift mechanism is very hard to read for my old eyes. The positive stops work very well but when the dimensions are other than the stepped ones the nudging method can be quite frustrating. too far, not far enough........

Peter,

The need arises when working with angles....take your table above, as long as it is a rectangle no problem, but turn your table into a chair with the front wider than the back a problem arises because with the angle, the Domino has to be referenced from different faces.

HTH

Trosey

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Trosey

I understand. I am due to make a chair next year and will be using the Domino. Do you have any tips - photos woud be helpful? Perhaps you could start a thread about chair making.

Thanks.

Peter

 

[Trosey]

Hi Trosey

I understand. I am due to make a chair next year and will be using the Domino. Do you have any tips - photos woud be helpful? Perhaps you could start a thread about chair making.

Thanks.

Peter

I am in the middle of doing 8 chairs at this time. The last chairs, I built, were done using the Leigh FMT. Similar chairs this time around using cherry instead of red oak and ladder back instead of slat back. I have converted over to thinking metric instead of inches when working with the Domino. I milled the lumber(timber) to metric sizes..ie, the leg stock is 40 mm instead of 1 1/2"..the apron stock is 25 mm instead of 1 1/16" so that I could used the positive stops of the lift mechanism. That worked out great until I ran into the angle referencing off of the different faces of the aprons. I finally got there but I agree with woodwreck that "bumping" a little, then a little more, then a little less..... was a pain.

I will try to get one of my sons to take some photos over the holidays and get them posted.

Trosey

 

[Wim]

I don't think you need that precision with the Domino. In most cases you don't have to be exactly in the middle of the board. If you work from the same sides of the boards, the surfaces will line up. If you have to make a 90 degree joint in the middle of the surface of a sheet, with the height setting you know the distance of the domino from the edge. The distance of the Domino bit is 10 mm from the bottom of the machine. With a guide 10 mm from the centre of the domino you can drill the hole at the right spot.

 

[Trosey]

"If you work from the same sides of the boards, the surfaces will line up."

That is exactly my point, but it can NOT be done with the domino at angles other than 90 degrees. I can reference at 92 degrees but not at 88 degrees, therefore one has to reference off off opposites faces

 

[woodwreck]

Hi Trosey

I understand. I am due to make a chair next year and will be using the Domino. Do you have any tips - photos woud be helpful? Perhaps you could start a thread about chair making.

Thanks.

Peter

I am in the middle of doing 8 chairs at this time. The last chairs, I built, were done using the Leigh FMT. Similar chairs this time around using cherry instead of red oak and ladder back instead of slat back. I have converted over to thinking metric instead of inches when working with the Domino. I milled the lumber(timber) to metric sizes..ie, the leg stock is 40 mm instead of 1 1/2"..the apron stock is 25 mm instead of 1 1/16" so that I could used the positive stops of the lift mechanism. That worked out great until I ran into the angle referencing off of the different faces of the aprons. I finally got there but I agree with woodwreck that "bumping" a little, then a little more, then a little less..... was a pain.

I will try to get one of my sons to take some photos over the holidays and get them posted.

Trosey

Fine Woodwokng has several feature articles on chair making - I too am making a set with the FMT.  See also Canadian WW forum.

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Trosey

Please make sure that you get one of your sons to take some pictures for us to see. One of the super things about the FOG is that even old guys like me can learn new methods. If possible could you please get some pictures taken during construction showing how you use the Domino?

Peter

 

[Stone Message]

I am a bit tied up at the moment and not able to do any more FOGing until Sunday pm. But...

I have created a very simple design, that can be made by anyone, to give you a vernier type adjuster for the Domino 500. Details to follow. If I forget, then please remind me after Sunday.

Peter

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

You can purchase just the micro adjuster from MicroFence and perhaps add it to the Domino to better meet your needs.  I think the price is fair and the accuracy is down to .001" IIRC. There are probably other tools that could be made more accurate with these adjusters too. One needs to decide if the cost and effort are worth it of course.

Best,
Todd Ferguson
Harrisburg, NC

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Here is a link to a metric version that might provide the parts you are looking for to do your conversion. I expect they would sell the imperial version too if you asked. There are other less expensive options on their site too, and it is all first cabin quality!

http://microfence.com/metric-conversion-plunge-basebrbnew-this-yearb-p-240.html

Best,
Todd Ferguson
Harrisburg, NC

 

[nclemmons]

I have a microstop and a domino.  I don't see an easy way to use them together to get what you are asking for.

Why don't you just use a digital caliper that will work in inches or millimeters? 

The domino has a space where you could use the external caliper points on the face of the fence that could easily allow you to index a specific amount.

And I think it will be less expensive than the microstop.

neil