Under cabinet lighting

[misha]

I'm remodeling our kitchen and will be swapping old fluorescent lights under cabinets to LED strips. Existing lights already have a wall switch, so I'd love to keep that and upgrade it to a dimmer. Most of the lights I find seem to plug into outlet for some reason.

Does anyone have any recommendations for strips and drivers to use?

I also would like to have an option to later add lights inside the upper cabinets and attach door switches, but it's a nice to have. Hafele Loox5 system looks very interesting, but I seems very pricey to setup, and doesn't look like it's supposed to be used with a traditional paddle switch.

 

[Packard]

https://www.kitchenpowerpopups.com/products/diode-led-kit

 

[rvieceli]

Everything you want and a bunch of stuff you never knew you wanted.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/undercabinet-lighting-fixtures/

Ron

 

[tjbnwi]

https://www.gmlighting.net/

Tom

 

[Cheese]

Here are some previous posts on LED lighting.
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...projects/kitchen-remodel/msg632217/#msg632217
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...ips-and-other-led-issues/msg593050/#msg593050

That LED package Packard refers to is actually a pretty good deal. I purchased just the 60 W Switchex 5 years ago for $190. The Switchex is really slick, an on/off switch, LED driver and dimmer all in a package the size of a conventional light switch. For longer, runs the Switchex is also available in a 100 W model.

I'd highly recommend placing the LED strips in some form of an aluminum extrusion. The pros are:
1. The aluminum extrusion acts as a heat sink which increases the life/brightness of the LEDs.
2. The extrusion reduces the glare of the LEDs.
3. The light is easier to focus in a particular direction/area.
4. A plastic cover can be installed on the aluminum extrusion further protecting the LEDs and providing more even light distribution. The plastic covers are available in clear or frosted.

 

[Packard]

And here is the Google search for the aluminum channels that Cheese referenced.  (We should charge him for our research work) [big grin]
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=aluminum+channels+for+led+strip+lights

 

[peter halle]

https://www.gmlighting.net/

Tom

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] ,  You do so many out of the world kitchens ( [not worthy] );  do you use gmlighting?  If so, is there a standard solution from there that you use as a starting point?  How about a mid-range?

Peter

 

[misha]

Thank you everyone for recommendations. Going to spend some time in the next couple of days putting the set together.

What's the color temperature should I go for? I also found an interesting dim to warm option.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member], thanks for the links to other discussions. Definitely going to use an aluminum channel. My plan is to route a groove in 18mm plywood the size of the whole run and install it underneath existing cabinets with a bit of extra valence to shield people's eyes. Drop aluminum channel into the groove and add a diffuser. I thought about doing a 45 degree corner channel, but I think that will create too much shadow towards the front of the counter.

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member], thanks for the links to other discussions. Definitely going to use an aluminum channel. My plan is to route a groove in 18mm plywood the size of the whole run and install it underneath existing cabinets with a bit of extra valence to shield people's eyes. Drop aluminum channel into the groove and add a diffuser. I thought about doing a 45 degree corner channel, but I think that will create too much shadow towards the front of the counter.

Something else to consider while looking at your options is that Diode LED offers a low profile aluminum extrusion that's only 3/8" in height...especially important if you're going to be running a dado in 18 mm ply.

The other item is, I'd suggest you solder the connections on to the LED strip. Those cheap/easy/unreliable press fit connections will give out eventually and can cause a fire. The possible alternative is that Diode LED NOW offers a screw thread connection...that's good because they no longer promote/offer/sell their press fit connection.

Here's an example of a factory Diode LED press fit connector attached to Diode LED Ultra Blaze LED's. This happened within about only 8 months of use.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

 

[tjbnwi]

https://www.gmlighting.net/

Tom

I’ll compose something over the weekend.

Tom

[member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] ,  You do so many out of the world kitchens ( [not worthy] );  do you use gmlighting?  If so, is there a standard solution from there that you use as a starting point?  How about a mid-range?

Peter

 

[Godfather]

Not a professional but I installed a similar setup in my kitchen. Ended up going with GM lighting components and installed the aluminum channel flush in the bottom of the cabinet with no valance.  Used the same color temp as the rest of the lighting on the first floor.  I like how it turned out but it did take extra time.

 

[kevinculle]

I have used puck LEDs from Armacost Lighting in 4 or 5 different rooms and have been very satisfied with their hardware:

Armacost Lighting Store

I've had good luck with the TP Link Kasa dimmers and switches.

 

[tiralie]

https://www.gmlighting.net/

Tom

I’ll compose something over the weekend.

Tom

Thanks.  [popcorn]

 

[afish]

The hafele lighting is pricey and its just marked up Chinese stuff anyways.  I ordered LED 4000k LED and installed it in the aluminum channel.  I soldered everything from the start and would not recommend any type of EZ connector.  Biggest issue is making sure you size the power supply for how much light you have.  I use the  "didikit Garbage Disposal Wireless Switch Kit, Sink Top Waste Disposal On/Off Switch Remote with 5s/10s Timer, Air Switch Replacement for Waste Food Disposer Up to 1HP, 16A/1800W, White" wireless outlet switch for garbage disposal and a second one for the under cabinet lights.  I pocket out a hole and mount the switch on the underside of the finish panel which has the LED channel and plugmold mortised in so everything is flushy flush.  Ill try to get a better pic if you want if you look real close you can see the plugmold but the depth of field is so shallow its blurry.  I did everything this way to keep the backsplashes free of any switches or outlets.