Universal blade vs. Panther for TS 55?

[clisbyclark]

I know many here are averse to using the Panther because the extra bite it takes from the guide strip makes it a PITA to switch between the two blades.  However, while perusing the catalog, I noticed the 28 tooth Universal blade, while having twice as many teeth as the Panther, is still advertised as providing glue-ready rip cuts and yet is 2.2 mm thick, just like the 48 tooth fine tooth that comes with the saw.  This would seem to be the answer for rips without altering the guide strip.  Does anyone have any experience with the Universal for rip cuts?  Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Warrior]

I use a TS 75 and 99% of my cutting is done with the universal blade. sweet blade. I suggest getting multiples so you always have a sharp one cutting. I have 4 universal blades just for that purpose.

the Panther blades are junk.

 

[Tim Sproul]

the Panther blades are junk.

Have you tried ripping thick (12/4) solid stock with the universal blade?  I agree the Panther blade shouldn't be used for sheetgoods, but it does have a reason for existence.  I just can't figure out why Festool couldn't make it have the same kerf as the other blades  .

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      The catalog is incorrect. The universal is actually 2.5 not 2.2    I have it and it takes pretty much the same bite off the splinter strip.  It is nearly 1/32 more off the strip compared to the fine blade.

Seth

 

[Eli]

I agree it's not junk, but it does have really limited use, and the universal is overall a better blade. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a second universal, while I'd really need a damn good excuse to get a panther.

 

[jonny round boy]

I use the 48t blade most of the time, for fitting kitchens - cutting MFC, MDF and laminate worktops. I currently have 6 of these blades (I've finally found somewhere local to get them sharpened, so I can now stop buying new ones ;D).

However, I change to the 28t universal blade when cutting solid timber worktops. It is wider than the universal, which means having to renew the rubber strip after every set of solid tops, but that's not too much of a problem. I also make sure that the universal blade is SHARP, otherwise I get a HELL of a kick-back doing plunging rip cuts.

I've not tried the panther blade - I did consider it before I bought my first universal, but went for the universal mainly on cost! Glad I did - the panther would probably be a bit too agressive for what I need.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I have a Panther blade for my TS 55, but have yet to use it.  It came with a 48 tooth ATB blade which I used to trim a bunch of doors, and to rip a bunch of mahogany trim strips (mostly shoe molding) after routing the profile using my 1400 router.  Then I bought a 28 tooth ATB blade, and once I tried it for cutting mostly plywood (3/4" and 1/2" birch from HD) to make some shop cabinets, I have been very satisfied with that blade.  Noticeably better for ripping than the 48 tooth blade, but still a rather good cut edge.  I am using my LS 130 with 120 grit and up to clean up the sawn edges.  In case you haven't experienced it, when cutting plywood, due to the cross-grain structure, some of the layers of the cut edge stand proud of the adjacent layers, and sanding (or a very light cut on a jointer) seems to work best for me at smoothing such cut edges.  This may be a phenomenon associated with the inexpensive (Chinese?) plywood from HD (Big Orange) that I am using.  Bottom line is that for the work I am doing I will buy another 28 tooth blade before I buy another 48 tooth blade.

Dave R.

 

[Tinker]

I have the 28 tooth universal saw blade in my ATF 55.  I never realised a better blade was needed for ripping until i started reading discussions here about the panther blade.  At first, i thought, "That is the blade to get for ripping."  And then i got to thinking a little further and realized how many rip blades I had for my table saw>>> ONE.  How many times do i use it?  Almost never.  with good combo blades on my Table saw, i have always been able to get perfect edges when ripping.  I sometimes needed to take shallower cuts, which made it longer period of time to make complete cut thru harder/thicker lumber.  But the extra time spent to cut all the way thru and still get a perfect edge was a lot less, and far less agrevation, than to spend the time jumping back and forth to different blades on each project.

i often switch from my universal blade to my negative pitch blade for certain types of material.  It is even more of a pain to switch blades on the ATF than on the table saw.  after reading all of this discussion, i really no longer feel the need for the Panther blade.  My universal gets the job done quite satisfactorilly, even when i need to use successive shallow cuts, just as with the old table saw.  Perhaps when I breakdown for a new TS 55, i will, maybe, then put a panther on the old ATF 55 and just switch saws as needed.

My universal blade is finally showing signs of need for sharpening. I am about to order a new blade.  As soon as I have the new UNIVERSAL BLADE, I will send the old one out for sharpening. 

One final question:  Am I correct in understanding the panther and the universal blades are essentially the same thickness?  (There seems to be a little debate about that) That would have a bearing on my thinking.

Tinker

 

[Eli]

For the TS55 and ATF55, all widths are listed in my catalog as 2.5 except for 48 tooth Fine blade(491952), listed @ 2.2, and the 48 tooth Laminate/Mineral Blade (489457), listed @2.6

 

[Corwin]

Tinker, once you finally break down and get that new TS55 you might just have the perfect solution to the blade kerf thing -- at least for using two blades that produce different kerfs.  If you can adjust one of the saws (distance from guide rail hat to the rubber) to match the other so each saw with its' different blade meets the rubber the same you would not have to fix/move the rubber or use separate guide rails...  Could be a good reason for a second TS.  :

Corwin

 

[Tinker]

Tinker, once you finally break down and get that new TS55 you might just have the perfect solution to the blade kerf thing -- at least for using two blades that produce different kerfs.  If you can adjust one of the saws (distance from guide rail hat to the rubber) to match the other so each saw with its' different blade meets the rubber the same you would not have to fix/move the rubber or use separate guide rails...  Could be a good reason for a second TS.  :

Corwin

Corwin, I have the rails covered.  I have several of the older style and a couple of the newer style.  I would use some for the new saw and some with the old (different blades for each) All told, i have enough rails to set up for somewhere over 16 feet. 

When I get on that "slope", I use skiis.

Tinker

 

[Corwin]

When I get on that "slope", I use skiis.

Tinker

What's this?  Some method of a controlled decent?  Hmmm, learn something new all the time! 

 

[Tinker]

When I get on that "slope", I use skiis.

Tinker

What's this?  Some method of a controlled decent?  Hmmm, learn something new all the time! 

It gets really complicated to describe.  My first trip to the toy store, i wore sneakers.  That was no good.  i needed a truck to take all the Festoys home.  Next time, i thought it would be smarter to wear steel cleats so i would not slip again.  NO GOOD.  I found myself locked in place and could not get away.  I have since discovered that there is no escape.  i've trid roler skates, skiis, even a motorcycle.  There IS NO ESCAPE.  ???
Tinker

 

[semenza]

Hi,

      I use the fine blade most of the time because it produces smoother cuts than the universal.  I agree that the universal does both cross cutting and ripping very well.  But the Universal is a combination blade. Essentially a compromise to both tasks. While it is the best choice for a smoother rip cut, it does not actually rip as well as the Panther or cross cut as well as the Fine blade.  The fact that Festool has done such a great job of making the blade change quick and easy on the TS saws makes me want to use the best blade for the job. But this business of all the blades  not being compatible on the guide rails  is nonsensical to me. Other quality blade manufacturers make all types of blades in varying thicknesses all the time. With Festools engineering and design capabilities  I do not see any reason for them not to fix this problem and truly perfect the system.

Seth

 

[semenza]

For the TS55 and ATF55, all widths are listed in my catalog as 2.5 except for 48 tooth Fine blade(491952), listed @ 2.2, and the 48 tooth Laminate/Mineral Blade (489457), listed @2.6

Hi,

  In the 2007 US catalog the Universal blade for the TS55 & ATF55 is listed as 2.2 when it is actually 2.5.  Making it the same as the Panther.  Interestingly the catalog lists the Universal and Fine blades for the TS75 as 2.4  and the Panther as 2.6. Can someone who owns the Blades for the TS75 take a look an the blade and verify the kerf. May they do match up for the TS75?

Seth

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I have not measured the kerfs, but I am certain that when I installed the 28 tooth ATB universal blade on my TS 55 and used it on guide rails I had previously used with the factory supplied 48 tooth ATB blade, I recut the rubber edge strip a bit more.

Dave R.

 

[semenza]

Hi,  Dave

      I would be pretty certain that it cut the strip some more. That s what happened on mine too.

Seth

 

[gkeas]

I'm afraid of the things that will be thrown my way after this, but couldn't you, hypothetically, use a .15mm thick shim (20mm diameter inside) to set the Panther blade 1/2 the extra kerf distance away from the body of the arbor.  I haven't removed my stock blade yet, but it seems that if well balanced, the extra thickness of the shim wouldn't cause any undo stress on the saw. 

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I'd like to order a couple of your shims!

Dave R.

 

[gkeas]

I'd like to order a couple of your shims!

Dave R.

A quick search, this is the closest i found.

Click me

it's 3/4" (with .015" extra) by .254mm thick.