Reading horror stories about chaning blades and setting them made me decide on getting the PM 15HH with the Byrd head... (Awesome) and my Grizzly 490X Joiner (spiral head) I have not turned the blades yet.... No tear out.... smooth finish and I start sanding at 120 grit... you can't go wrong...
Upgrading to a Bryd Tool Shelix cutter head
- Thread starter jacko9
- Start date
I just installed a shelix head on my 8 inch Grizzly jointer, I noticed the cutter closest to the fence appears to set in an inverse manner to the other cutters. I'm probably not using the correct term, but the attached picture showes the issue. I have not seen this on other heads, and I was wondering if this is correct? The cutter is seated correctly, this tooth was machined that way.
Paul
Paul
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copcarcollector
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- Jan 11, 2013
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- 1,455
[member=61710]pjf1969[/member] Pretty sure I saw something similar on another forum, I think it was the replacement for the Dewalt planer. Update, looks like the Lumberjocks user (thread below) was also replacing for an 8 inch jointer. Sorry I don't recall the outcome of the inquiry, might be easiest just to send the picture to Byrd and ask them...
Here it is:http://lumberjocks.com/topics/158498
Here it is:http://lumberjocks.com/topics/158498
HarveyWildes
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- May 3, 2016
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- 984
Love it - I got a Byrd 8" cutter head for my jointer and ordered a new planer with the Grizzley helical cutter head. Both of them are quieter and perform really well.
The Grizzley cutter head came perfectly adjusted and has stayed that way. The Byrd cutter head was not so well adjusted. I've had to go back and retighten all of the cutter screws to the recommended torque. Once that was done - no problems. Since the recommended torque seems to be absolutely correct, I can only assume that someone at Byrd's factory was not overly concerned with using their torque wrench properly the day they made mine, or that their tightening robot was out of adjustment. So now both machines cut perfectly flat.
As a side note, rather than getting small ripples parallel with the cut, I now get very subtle lines perpendicular to the cut. They are perfectly flat - no difference in height, but apparently not perfectly smooth. On softwoods I start at around 120 grit to sand these out, but it takes 80 grit if the wood is really hard. Both the planer and the jointer leave these kinds of marks. On the whole, though, they're no worse than the ripples. The big advantage (besides the dB level) is the quality of cut in figured wood.
The Grizzley cutter head came perfectly adjusted and has stayed that way. The Byrd cutter head was not so well adjusted. I've had to go back and retighten all of the cutter screws to the recommended torque. Once that was done - no problems. Since the recommended torque seems to be absolutely correct, I can only assume that someone at Byrd's factory was not overly concerned with using their torque wrench properly the day they made mine, or that their tightening robot was out of adjustment. So now both machines cut perfectly flat.
As a side note, rather than getting small ripples parallel with the cut, I now get very subtle lines perpendicular to the cut. They are perfectly flat - no difference in height, but apparently not perfectly smooth. On softwoods I start at around 120 grit to sand these out, but it takes 80 grit if the wood is really hard. Both the planer and the jointer leave these kinds of marks. On the whole, though, they're no worse than the ripples. The big advantage (besides the dB level) is the quality of cut in figured wood.
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