Use a Rotex to sharpen mower blades?

PeterK

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Jan 23, 2007
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Looking for an easy lazy way to sharpen mower blades. Since sandpaper type sharpeners like the Work Sharp 3000 are used to sharpen chisels and such, it seems that it might be quite easy to sharpen riding mower blades with a Rotex 150 with regular sandpaper. Any issues with that or have a better way?
Pete
 
I recommend Saphir. I don't use the vacuum hose when grinding metal, but I haven't asked any of the applications specialists if that is a necessary precaution.

Charles
 
PeterK said:
Looking for an easy lazy way to sharpen mower blades. Since sandpaper type sharpeners like the Work Sharp 3000 are used to sharpen chisels and such, it seems that it might be quite easy to sharpen riding mower blades with a Rotex 150 with regular sandpaper. Any issues with that or have a better way?
Pete
 

I just remove the blades from the mower, chuck them into my Workmate, and use a 4 1/2" hand-held grinder to remove enough stock to get to a reasonably sharp blade edge.  I'd hate to think how long it would take using sandpaper. 

[smile]
 
I use a bench grinder.  $39 special at HD’s Black Friday.  Lawn blades take about 5 minutes to sharpen up once a season.

Anyway, on to the OP.  There was a neat link someone provided a long while back showing guys up on those windmill generators, using Rotex sanders to sharpen the blades.  I’d bet it’ll work fine on a lawnmower.  Not the fastest way to do it, perhaps.  You also are running some risk of tearing/cutting your pad.
 
I use 180 grit flap style on my 4" angle grinder, but I've been favoring my Foredom with same grit 1 1/2" round barrel paper. Sand paper actually works very well and quick. Smoother grits work better than i.e 40,60,80 I've found. I've even polished the blades cutting surface with 800, but it didn't cut any better, looked pretty. That was on my 54" rider.
I'm not sure if the rotex would have enough true rotation, but should work I would think. Try it and let us know.
 
Hi,

A stationary belt sander or a portable clamped upside down to a bench ( I use a large vice) works great. Run against the blade edge  to avoid feathering. Have used 5 gr and 80 gr. Both do about the same. Doesn't take long, doesn't overheat the blade. Not good for removing large nicks , but great for general sharpening.

Seth
 
Sparktrician said:
PeterK said:
Looking for an easy lazy way to sharpen mower blades. Since sandpaper type sharpeners like the Work Sharp 3000 are used to sharpen chisels and such, it seems that it might be quite easy to sharpen riding mower blades with a Rotex 150 with regular sandpaper. Any issues with that or have a better way?
Pete
 

I just remove the blades from the mower, chuck them into my Workmate, and use a 4 1/2" hand-held grinder to remove enough stock to get to a reasonably sharp blade edge.  I'd hate to think how long it would take using sandpaper. 

[smile]

+1
 
Brice Burrell said:
Darcy uses the Ras115.

Yes I do.  With 36 grit saphir.

I even have 2 small angle grinders but, my RAS works just as well.

I tried it with my RO 125 with 36 grit Saphir but, it was much slower.

The RAS will also level out an old cast iron water closet pipe when you need to retrofit a new flange.

Me and my Buddy. [big grin]
 
Thanks all! Got me thinking that I have a never used mini Porter Cable belt sander that might be perfect for this. I have been using a bench grinder but it makes grooves so easily and overheats the blade so the belt sander should give a far more even finish. Guess it was just another DUH moment for me.  [big grin]
 
Ah but you forgot what I posted!!  [blink]
"Looking for an easy lazy way to sharpen mower blades."  [big grin]
The key being LAZY! Yea I have done lots of blade sharpening with a file but my hands are getting arthritice (sp?) so looking for an easier way with all the power tools I own.
 
Wood_Junkie said:
I use a bench grinder. 
+1.  If you can get the job done with sandpaper in less than a week, you've either got a smaller lawn, or one with a lot less sand and rocks than mine.
 
+1 on the RAS. Less chance overheating than a true angle grinder. A good compromise between speed for badly worn blades and the ability to choose different grits for a fine edge without burning.
 
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