Use Bondo, wood filler or caulk?

usatu

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Oct 20, 2016
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Hi, I am trying to fill the gap between stiles and rails to paint over. It is very ugly without a clean line. What material would be good for this task? Bondo, wood filler or caulk? I am afraid the material is not flexible enough or too flexible to cause a crack in the future. Any suggestions?

Thanks so much
 

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Big Stretch, make sure you let it cure overnight.

Bondo and wood filler dry to hard.

Tom
 
Tom- spray enough paint to cover is a bad idea, right? One layer of surfacer is not enough to cover the orange color. I already sprayed once then filled the gap. Btw, picture is from internet. But mine is kind like that.
 
Finish will shrink and crack.

What did you fill it with?

What orange color?

Caulked these last night, shot them a few hours ago.

Tom

 

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I used bondo to fill the gap so it is orange red color. So it is ok to use bondo or I should switch to caulk? Sorry little confused here.
 
Very nice finish. Wish I could do the same. I got some orange peel after primed with surfacer. Now try to sand away and spray one more time.I saw some people sand up to 400 to make the primed surface really really smooth before base coat. Not sure whether that will create the wonderful finish you just showed.

Thanks again.
tjbnwi said:
Finish will shrink and crack.

What did you fill it with?

What orange color?

Caulked these last night, shot them a few hours ago.

Tom
 
usatu said:
Very nice finish. Wish I could do the same. I got some orange peel after primed with surfacer. Now try to sand away and spray one more time.I saw some people sand up to 400 to make the primed surface really really smooth before base coat. Not sure whether that will create the wonderful finish you just showed.

Thanks again.
tjbnwi said:
Finish will shrink and crack.

What did you fill it with?

What orange color?

Caulked these last night, shot them a few hours ago.

Tom

The finish will tighten by tomorrow morning.

Sand with 240 or 320, 400 is unnecessary. You don't need to sand it away, just smooth.

Caulk is better, flexibility helps with items that can move.

You can get white hardener for auto body filler, or use Clearisil.

The Surfacer will block out the red.

Tom

 
usatu said:
Very nice finish. Wish I could do the same. I got some orange peel after primed with surfacer. Now try to sand away and spray one more time.I saw some people sand up to 400 to make the primed surface really really smooth before base coat. Not sure whether that will create the wonderful finish you just showed.

Thanks again.
tjbnwi said:
Finish will shrink and crack.

What did you fill it with?

What orange color?

Caulked these last night, shot them a few hours ago.

Tom

What gun and air cap set?

The second coat of Surfacer should be much smoother.

Tom
 
I use fuji Q4 bottom feed and cap set 1.3mm. Second coat does look better. Do I need go for a third coat? I have a pierce of birch plywood which I applied 3 coats and it still shows the pores if look closer and from side. The idea to get the smoothest primed surface before bc/topcoat is driving me crazy.
 
usatu said:
I use fuji Q4 bottom feed and cap set 1.3mm. Second coat does look better. Do I need go for a third coat? I have a pierce of birch plywood which I applied 3 coats and it still shows the pores if look closer and from side. The idea to get the smoothest primed surface before bc/topcoat is driving me crazy.

There are times when filler is the way to go.

Varithane markets trowelable filler, look into Crystalc and Aquacoat clear grain filler. Fill, sand, respray.

The gun and air cap set should work just fine.

Tom
 
As tjbln said, Big Stretch caulking is my go to caulk for this application. I'm a home builder and I've used it for years. As he mentioned as well, you will need to let it set at least over night before spraying. Preferably a little longer if you have the time. Wood moves and this should move with it without ugly cracking.
 
Thank you. I got big stretch caulk . Now should I remove the bondo from I put in the gap in order to avoid disaster down the road?I want to kick myself for rushing this [crying]
 
I have a question on big stretch caulk. It has been 2 days after I applied the caulk. I sanded it and it is kinda of sticky and soft to sand and left with residues. How do you make it smooth or flat? Thank you!
 
usatu said:
I have a question on big stretch caulk. It has been 2 days after I applied the caulk. I sanded it and it is kinda of sticky and soft to sand and left with residues. How do you make it smooth or flat? Thank you!

Apply properly, don't sand.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
I need help with my caulking. After I applied surfacer , cracks showed up along the caulk now. What do I do next? Sand it and apply KA+ or apply surfacer again?
Thanks so much!

usatu said:
I have a question on big stretch caulk. It has been 2 days after I applied the caulk. I sanded it and it is kinda of sticky and soft to sand and left with residues. How do you make it smooth or flat? Thank you!

Apply properly, don't sand.

Tom
 

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I've seen that when I sprayed exterior latex with an airless over DAP Sidewinder caulk on a fascia repair that was cover by siding later on.  Later I used the same paint thinned with my Fuji/Gxpc over DAP Dynaflex 230, no problem at all a year and half later.
 
I looked somewhere else and some other ppl have the same problem.    Guess surfacer doesn't like soft substrate.
 
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