Use of Saw Off Rail?

Hotwheels

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
237
I have used the TS55 for cuts only with the rail. The other day I had to do some quick cuts inside on some molding and thought about using the TS55, but I thought it would not be suited to those cuts unless I brought in the MFT and guide rail. So, I just used my other circular saw to do the quick cut.

Am I right in thinking that the TS55 is awkward to use off the rail? If not, what kind of cuts to you do with the saw off the rail?
Thanks,
John
 
This is a pretty offbeat use so it might not be relevant to your intention but thanks to the fairly precise depth adjustment and dust collection of Festool plunge cut saws I was able to freehand saw a curved cut through "engineered" wood flooring on a TV commercial set right in front of the camera.

With the saw blade barely reaching the bottom of the wood it was easy to steer the saw along a curved path and with the dust collection the task could be accomplished in very little time without requiring the camera crew to breakdown and move the camera.

 
John,

I've used mine off the rail a few times.  OTOH, it's pretty easy to grab a convenient rail and slap it down on the wood.  Depends on the situation, of course.   

Dan.
 
Michael Kellough said:
This is a pretty offbeat use... I was able to freehand saw a curved cut through "engineered" wood flooring....

Hi Michael,

Three questions--

Thickness of the material you were cutting?

Radius of the cut?

Was the riving knife installed?

Which piece, inside or outside, was the keeper?  I'm assuming this technique would chew up the outside a bit.

OK, four questions.  No one ever expects the Spanish Inquisition!
 
Ned Young said:
Michael Kellough said:
This is a pretty offbeat use... I was able to freehand saw a curved cut through "engineered" wood flooring....

Hi Michael,

Three questions--

Thickness of the material you were cutting?

-- I think it was about 12mm, this was more than a year ago.

Radius of the cut?

-- The radius varied from a comfortable ~4 ft to a still managable 2 ft or less.

Was the riving knife installed?

-- No, the riving knife was removed, as you guessed. With the ATF 55 it always comes down as the saw pluges. The TS55 is different and might allow that kind of cutting to proceed without removing the knife but I suspect that if you try to reduce the radius while underway (with the TS 55 the knife might interfere.

Which piece, inside or outside, was the keeper?  I'm assuming this technique would chew up the outside a bit.

-- I had to cut in both directions because of the tight space but the inside radius material was the keeper. I don't recall the waste was terribly chewed up. I think the melamine+ coating on the flooring held it together pretty well but since I was in a hurry and it was waste I didn't pay much attention to it. The keeper "wood" was in excellent condition but it wasn't in view of the camera anyway.

OK, four questions.  No one ever expects the Spanish Inquisition!
 
John Russell said:
I have used the TS55 for cuts only with the rail. The other day I had to do some quick cuts inside on some molding and thought about using the TS55, but I thought it would not be suited to those cuts unless I brought in the MFT and guide rail. So, I just used my other circular saw to do the quick cut.

Am I right in thinking that the TS55 is awkward to use off the rail? If not, what kind of cuts to you do with the saw off the rail?
Thanks,
John

Actually, because of the riving knife, used in conjunction with the ripping guidehttp://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=483278&ID=3
I can rip pretty straight without the guide rail with my ATF 55 but I don't know about the TS 55.

Hey Bob, why isn't there a "parallel stop" for the TS 55?

 
Michael,
The one offrail application I could imagine is using it some flooring applications such as you describe where there is a flat surface to work with. Thanks!
 
Hey Bob, why isn't there a "parallel stop" for the TS 55?

[/quote]

Michael,

There is one for the TS 55 - item # 491469.

Bob
 
Bob Marino said:
Hey Bob, why isn't there a "parallel stop" for the TS 55?

Michael,

There is one for the TS 55 - item # 491469.

Bob
[/quote]

I was looking for something visibly similar to the old one. This new guide with two posts is yet another big improvement.
 
I have the ATF 55 and tried (only once) cutting without the guide bar.  As far as I am concerned, I see no reason to try again.  I could not see the line and, since it is a pain to remove the knife for just a few cuts, the cuts were quite unsatisfactory.  I have used the guide bar where ever I use the ATF.  Before I found Festool, I used a method somewhat like the Festool system for cutting rafter/joist and other framing cuts by laying out as many 2x's or other x's as I could lay out across a set of horses.  I had a flip down piece of 1x6 or whatever was lying around and straight that I would drop across the line of cut and run my circular saw along the edge of the guide board.  I learned this trick way back in 1949 while working as a carpenter's helper for an old (today I would probably think of him as young) Swede carpenter I was working for.  Today, i don't get involved with high production any more, so i lie the Festool way.  if i need curves, i go with BS or the Festool jig saw and a little bit of sanding to smooth things out. I do still have my old Milwaukee which I pull out from under the bench, wipe the dust off and chew away whenever I have just a few cuts to make free hand outside of my shop.  I suppose if I did not still have that, I would try again freehand with the ATF.
Tinker
 
I use mine all the time to cut out birdmouths on roofing jobs and quick cutting 6x4 timber but its not recomended its jammed a couple of times 
 
    I find that the plunge saws work OK off the rail when there is a flat supporting surface such as a floor as noted above. When attempting to cross cut lumber it is indeed a bit awkward and the base snapping down when the saw clears the cut is certainly disconcerting. I prefer not to use it off the rail.

Seth
 
I no longer have my trusty Milwaukee.  I foolishly gave it to my son.  I find I miss that saw.

I am not comfortable using my ATF 55 or my TS 55 free hand.  When I think of all the foolish cuts I made with my Milwaukee, I wonder why I am uncomfortable using the rail saws free hand.  I think it is because i can not see the line.  I also want to revert to my old habits of picking up the heel of my Festoy saws when plunging.  I got away with that for many years, but I don't want to try it with my rail type saws. If i ain't comfy and cozy, why try?  Especially since I have two jig saws in my arsenal. One is Milwaukee that I use outside.  The Festoy i keep in the shop.  If those don't work, i suppose I could always fire up my Echo chainsaw.  [wink]
Tinker
 
I've free handed quite a lot with my TS55. It actually works quite well as long as you have something supporting the left side of the saw. If your drop off is on the right it gets sketchy because it'll spring back when there is nothing supporting it. It is a the technique that requires much caution. I have also cut a wall out with one just make sure all electrical and plumbing is removed or not present.
 
Back
Top