Use or change the tape on the UG wings for Kapex?

RonMiller

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
380
Now I've got the Kapex and 36mm hose, so next saving $ for the stand and wings (based on good feedback from an earlier question).

So, next question is, apparently the tape on the wings is only metric so you users - do you go metric for your measurements or come up with an alternate tape?

Inquiring minds want to know  [tongue].
 
RonMiller said:
Now I've got the Kapex and 36mm hose, so next saving $ for the stand and wings (based on good feedback from an earlier question).

So, next question is, apparently the tape on the wings is only metric so you users - do you go metric for your measurements or come up with an alternate tape?

Inquiring minds want to know  [tongue].

Hi Ron, good for you buying the Kapex and 36mm AS hose. That will improve your dust/chips collection and reduce clogging by chips.

Since the end of WWII I have only used metric for working drawings in my shops. I used to manually make the conversion from Imperial during the drafting stage. When I created custom cabinet design software 30 years ago one of the original features was auto conversion, with output cut lists only in metric.

In previous posts here members have mentioned using sticky-back rule tapes. However, you will need both left to right and right to left tapes. People including dealers shared that one or the other of those tapes is on back-order.

Fast Cap and many other tape measure manufacturers sell dual Imperial and Metric versions. My favorite Fast Cap also has blue dots every 32mm which make System 32 calculations easy.
 
I got some imperial tapes from starrett.  they sell RH and LH tapes.
 
Why would Festool not sell this product this way in the US? Seems a little silly to make people pay a premium for these wings then have to modify them to fit out measurement system.
 
I went metric when I moved to AU and don't miss fractional a bit. It took about two weeks to be really comfortable, and now I only use imperial when referring to something as a rough length, ie, eight feet. I'd advise you not try a dual measure tape, it can be even more confusing. Speaking only from my own experience, I find metric more repeatably accurate.
 
It is wise to learn metric and use both.  1 mm is in between 1/16" and 1/32" so it is a good tolerance baseline and easier to divide and subtract etc.  Then you go down to .5 mm and for most wood working that is accurate enough.  Incidentally .5mm is really close to 1/50" (.02"= .508mm)  and 1/4 mm is almost 1/100" (.01"= .254mm)  so it corresponds to engineering scales.  I use metric when I want to rip a board exactly in half.  2.8 mm saw kerf subtract from 55mm is 52.2 divide by 2 is 26.1mm rip. 
 
Back
Top