Using colored epoxy to fill CNC lines

paulhuse

paulhuse

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Joined
Jul 27, 2014
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I need advice on filling CNC lines. After doing some reading I'm leaning toward using a pigmented epoxy but I could use your collective knowledge/advice.

I am building a cribbage board coffee table for a friend. The lines are 5mm wide and 2-3mm deep. They essentially follow a linear, snaking path around the board and also divide the peg route for the player pieces.

My current plan is to dye a 30 minute epoxy. Specifically, I'm looking to finish the top with a danish oil and then rub beeswax as a gentle top coat that will also help any of the epoxy to stand up on the finish and not seep into the wood and muddy the lines. I will dye one of the binary components with a black pigment and then mix a quart or so together, filling plastic syringes to squeeze into the lines. After it sets up I plan to use a plastic putty knife to remove the overflow.

The other option I have is to use the epoxy first, then sand and then finish. 

I do have a test piece but I'd like to start with your advice and go from there. [big grin]

1) Do you recommend the epoxy before or after the finish?
2) Do you have a specific epoxy that you'd recommend (system three, etc)?
3) Do you have any other advice to offer?

I appreciate your advice and comments. I'll post a picture of the top and a summary when I'm finished.
Thanks!
 
What are the lines cut into? Veneered board, solid, etc.?

I've used solid surface adhesive in the past for similar stuff.  Pro's are it's available in a multitude of colours, the dispensers have a fine tipped nozzle so no messing around filling syringes, overfill the lines and when cured (15-20 mins) just sand it down flush. It will bond very well to MDF/ply etc.

Cons - In solid wood it might crack if there's any movement. You might also have issues with it bleeding into the grain, but depends on what species.
 
jonny round boy said:
What are the lines cut into? Veneered board, solid, etc.?
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Reclaimed side grain butcher block about 40mm thick. It's pretty stable at this point in it's life.
 
Has anyone tried the Sika product? Without the masking tape? I am not wanting to mask the entire piece before I use it. Interesting product.
 
I used the Sika on another contractors project. Over filled the joints, let cure, sanded. We did not use masking tape.

Tom
 
I've done quite a bit of inlay in the arts & crafts furniture I build.  I've either used epoxy with metal powders or stone held with ca glue.  In either case I've found that gluing the inlay and then running the boards through a drum sander gives the best results.  After the drum sander I sand with finer and finer grits in a random orbital sander until all the scratches are removed. 

Hope this helps

Jay
 
paulhuse said:
Do you recommend the epoxy before or after the finish?
Click to expand...
Before. What kind of finish we're you going to apply?

paulhuse said:
2) Do you have a specific epoxy that you'd recommend (system three, etc)?
Click to expand...
I use West systems. They sell it at the local West Marine store with some tints etc.

paulhuse said:
3) Do you have any other advice to offer?
Click to expand...

I would go back to the CNC guy and ask him if he could cut an inlay from some black acrylic.
Tim
 
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