Using Planex to remove popcorn ceilings and have some questions

Ash Dash said:
antss said:
Ash, I know that advice dispensed on forums can come across as snarky and unhelpful at times.  You've asked a question at a forum that has a lot of smart and successful people on it that have a vast collection of knowledge and years worth of experience.  Think of that as an entry ticket to Festool in the first place. 

You've come to the wrong place if you simply wanted a pat on the back , yes men, or simply were looking for help desk like info such as just buy Festool paper " 456789" and have at it.  It's not that kind of place.

The years of experience has taught some of these guys that a planex like sander for popcorn ceiling removal in just one room isn't really worth the effort and expense for a one time job.  You seem set on using your free planex and that's fine , but it still isn't the best tool or technique for a one room application in many guy's minds. Especially since you have no experience using that tool - which isn't easy or intuitive. And that's the advice you're getting. 

My tip to you is to prime all of those spots and gouges before you cover them with compound. Raw exposed brown paper in the Sheetrock doesn't play well with the compound.

Are you going to paint the ceiling with an airless spray rig ?

Is this directed at me?
Ash
. I think he meant the OP, KG29.....We'll see.... [embarassed]
 
antss said:
Ash, I know that advice dispensed on forums can come across as snarky and unhelpful at times.  You've asked a question at a forum that has a lot of smart and successful people on it that have a vast collection of knowledge and years worth of experience.  Think of that as an entry ticket to Festool in the first place. 

You've come to the wrong place if you simply wanted a pat on the back , yes men, or simply were looking for help desk like info such as just buy Festool paper " 456789" and have at it.  It's not that kind of place.

The years of experience has taught some of these guys that a planex like sander for popcorn ceiling removal in just one room isn't really worth the effort and expense for a one time job.  You seem set on using your free planex and that's fine , but it still isn't the best tool or technique for a one room application in many guy's minds. Especially since you have no experience using that tool - which isn't easy or intuitive. And that's the advice you're getting. 

My tip to you is to prime all of those spots and gouges before you cover them with compound. Raw exposed brown paper in the Sheetrock doesn't play well with the compound.

Are you going to paint the ceiling with an airless spray rig ?

Not even worth my time to give a proper response ::) Goof!!, I just don't get the replies. I won't be back bitching in 3 days saying I  wrecked my ceilings. These kind of responses is what drives people to figure stuff out things themselves.

Don't sell/rent the Planex to the General public then???

I've learned everything myself, as we hire nothing but losers around here. I Finished the bathrooms myself after they left and never came back. (learned using a 10" wetsaw,installing Ditra etc)

Started/finished the kitchen by myself other then the counter tops.

Re-did the basement with Crown-moulding,chair rail etc

I just shake my head when people say that want work, or keep saying the trades are dying. I asked about 3-5 guys to finish my ceilings so the electrician can install the pot lights.

From the ones I could reach again!!! was told I live to far away, but will post the ad looking for work again.

You clearly don't want work or the $700-800.

So when I see stupid AZZ comments it really pisses me off, that a man has asked for proper help.

I'm a easy person to deal with, just don't push my buttons.
 
What I have learned

1,Use both the Planex & CT36 together
2,Use the harness
3,80Grit for removing the popcorn finish
4,220Grit after I re-mud all the joints again
5,use drywall sealer
6,Paint
 
leakyroof said:
. Mirka has discs that fit the Planex????.  I didn't know that... [eek]
 

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[member=63390]KG29[/member],

A few years ago I had to do finish work in 9 condos that had popcorn ceilings.  The Planex was not yet available here although I had seen a sneak peek of it at a training class.  My ceilings were painted and unpainted.  I grabbed what I had - my Rotex 150 and went to town sanding the crap off.  One day into the job, based on upper body pain I ordered the ETS150.

I called my brother who lives in Palm Springs, CA.  He had worked on renovating the very first hotel in Palm Springs into an assisted living center as well as renovating 5 other homes that also had popcorn ceilings.  He told me that the normal procedure there - where popcorn ceilings ruled for a decade or more was to put down plastic on the floor and then use a garden sprayer set to a fine mist to wet the popcorn and then walk away.  The popcorn would then fall to the floor.  Sometimes you would have to spray some more.

The resulting surface would then need to be finished because the popcorn would cover many sins and shortcuts.  That is where the Planex will come into play in my opinion.  You have been given valid advice.

Good luck on your project.

Peter
 
Pressure bottle with Hot water, Then scrape, Why over think it. I have a 4x8 CNC but i wouldn't use it to cut a sheet of osb in 1/2.
Ive done it that way for 25 years. the popcorn won't be smooth so Then you can use your friends tool.
 
Some people are just beyond help. 

They'd rather do it their way , which is certainly their prerogative.

There are usually multiple ways to accomplish a job, and multiple tools that can be used to lessen the human effort needed for a task. Finding the most efficient combination of those for a given task is often found through trial and error - experience.

I do find it ironic when ignorant newbies solicit advice, then complain that it's no good or not to their liking.
 
antss said:
Some people are just beyond help. 
...
I do find it ironic when ignorant newbies solicit advice, then complain that it's no good or not to their liking.

The technical term is confirmation bias.
The studies basically say that we are all beyond help to varying degrees.
 
So this is what was hiding underneath after 30 years, interesting they covered everything up being it looks pre-finished [huh]

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Looks like fixing those big sagging joints is my biggest issue, We may look into trying to hire someone after the electrician installs the pots.

Just not sure how to fix those sagging joints as I want a nice and smooth ceiling.

about me not taking advice from people, I already did the wetting/scrapping and can't go back with the mess it caused. i still find popcorn bits here and there sometimes.

 
Acoustically [popcorn] cielings are pretty good, but that [popcorn] ceiling does need some help.

(I kind of like old fashioned plaster for the look and the sound.)

Is it on plaster or drywall?
Is the [popcorn] on plaster or drywall?
 
Holmz said:
Acoustically [popcorn] cielings are pretty good, but that [popcorn] ceiling does need some help.

(I kind of like old fashioned plaster for the look and the sound.)

Is it on plaster or drywall?
Is the [popcorn] on plaster or drywall?

That's a drywall ceiling, about the popcorn part I'm not really sure. The only plaster ceilings I've seen are 1800-1900 century holmes around here.
 
I am not sure where "around here" is, but the United States is less than fully United. Plaster was used in SoCal in the mid 60s. And I have seen a ceiling from the late 40's / early 50's with plaster.

Since the thing is looking like a 1/2-mongrel anyhow, maybe pulling the ceiling out is the easiest/best?
(I dunno, just asking)
 
That's a relatively simple job for a good spackler. They'd cut the tape out and set new tape in the grooves. Bring it back flush to the surrounding areas and then skim the entire ceiling.
 
I live in Florida, home of the popcorn ceiling.  Pretty much every home pre-mid 90's has it or has had it.  Some time, in the 90's, knockdown became the latest trend for ceilings (and walls as an alternative to orange peel), and by late 90's it was pretty much all they did.

My home has/had popcorn.  I've had it removed by 3 different companies, and have removed some myself.  I've talked to a bunch more companies beyond those I used.  Not a single one of them will sand popcorn to remove it.  It could have asbestos in it, and even though it was banned in late 70's, popcorn ceiling material sitting around in 50 gallon drums means homes well into the 80's could have asbestos in their popcorn ceiling. 

Everyone here scrapes popcorn.

As another member had said, the method they pretty much all use is to put down big  tarps, spray the ceiling with water (make it good and wet), let it sit for a bit, then scrape with a 12" scraper.  Some companies will scrape into a container, and others just scrape right to the floor and walk all over it.  The later method is messy but it's much quicker than trying to contain it.  You can scrape down an entire ceiling in a 200 sq ft room using the later method in 10 minutes or less.

In most instances, 20+ year old popcorn literally falls away giving you drywall that looks like it did when it was installed, completely unharmed. If your drywall gets scraped up, it's generally one of three things: 1) not enough water, 2) your blade is damaged, 3) too much pressure

Heck, 20+ year old popcorn will fall away much of the time if you look at it wrong.  You can easily scrape popcorn without wetting it much of the time but then it's very dusty, and you have that asbestos thing.  Wetting it is to contain the airborne mess.

The most common place for the popcorn to stick is in the corners, or if there was a prior repair job and it's newer.  But even in those instances, the pros will just scrape at it more with a smaller blade.  When they are prepping the ceiling for re-finishing (usually knockdown), there's some work needed to re-tape/mud joints (many companies re-do all of them even if they look good), and thus sanding comes into play at that step, and they can get any stubborn little bits of popcorn remaining.
 
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