Using the Collins coping foot

[ear3]

I normally do my crown and similar coping by hand -- and since I got the RO90 I've used the interface pad to finish off the cuts.  But I'm tasked with doing a huge amount of coping in the coming weeks, so I decided to get the Collins coping foot for my Carvex to speed things up.

Just wondering if there are any tricks to using it, or if it's basically just a faster version of what you do with a coping saw?  I was initially hesitant to go this route just because it seems like it would be really easy to cut into the face of the moulding profile, but at this point I'm searching for every and any solution to economize my time.

And what's the best Festool blade to use with this attachment, BTW?

 

[rvieceli]

You might want to take a look at using an angle grinder.

http://www.letsrenovate.com/home-improvement-magazine/2014/06/24/using-a-grinder-to-perfect-coped-crown-corners/

 

[teocaf]

I don't do coping but a fellow fogger bought my trion and said he was going to install a collins coping foot on it.  i remember looking up this attachment at the time to see if i could adapt its use for my own purposes.  here's some of the info i ran across at the time:

for blades, these bosch at the bottom of page:
http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_coping_foot_carvex.htm

for technique:  gary katz has some great videos either on his "this is carpentry" site or on you tube.  can't find the link before i have to run out.

 

[Sparktrician]

I normally do my crown and similar coping by hand -- and since I got the RO90 I've used the interface pad to finish off the cuts.  But I'm tasked with doing a huge amount of coping in the coming weeks, so I decided to get the Collins coping foot for my Carvex to speed things up.

Just wondering if there are any tricks to using it, or if it's basically just a faster version of what you do with a coping saw?  I was initially hesitant to go this route just because it seems like it would be really easy to cut into the face of the moulding profile, but at this point I'm searching for every and any solution to economize my time.

And what's the best Festool blade to use with this attachment, BTW?

Use of the Collins Coping Foot will make your job go much faster.  Three things to consider:
[list type=decimal]
[*]The speed of cut using a Carvex will work to your disadvantage unless you practice to get a feel for it FIRST.
[*]Use the finest cut blade you have to get the finished cut you're looking for.
[*]Unless you're VERY good with the Carvex/Collins combination, cut just a hair shy of your cut line, then finish it with a sanding stick.
[/list]

You can also use a RAS to sneak up on a cut line. 

 

[Cheese]

You might want to take a look at using an angle grinder.

Never thought about using a small right angle grinder, that could be faster than using a jigsaw. Probably more precise also.  [thumbs up]

 

[Ed Bray]

I have a standard Collins Coping foot on my Ryobi cordless jigsaw I use it with the Bosch blades as recommended in Gary Katz's youtube videos, I also have the Coping Foot for my Carvex and tried it with the FSG S105/4 blade with little discernible difference.

 

[Sparktrician]

You might want to take a look at using an angle grinder.

Never thought about using a small right angle grinder, that could be faster than using a jigsaw. Probably more precise also.  [thumbs up]

I generally use my RAS for scribe cuts. 

 

[justinh]

There is a learning curve to the tool.  If your are proficient by hand it will be shorter.  You may need more relief cuts than you do when hand coping depending on the profile.  You need to avoid running into a spot where you would need to back the saw out of the cut.  I typically leave the line on a cut and file it righteous.  It there is a tight radius bead or some other more delicate detail I pivot the saw in and make multiple relief cuts and the wiggle the blade back and forth to clean out most of the remaining waste and file to the line.  Over time muscle memory takes over on common profiles.  Something like a 5 1/4" S-curve crown or pregnant lady base takes about 30 sec with repetitive practice and after a few cuts more complicated ones take around 2 min.

For crown make the recommended support box. A picture of mine is attached.  It hooks onto the wings of my saw stand.

I run the jigsaw at a #3 orbit and use the Bosch 244D blades.  They are designed for circle cutting with a coarse tooth and a wide set neither of which result in tear out because you are cutting from the back.  The wood fibers are pulled down.  I have tried a couple of different Festool blades and didn't care for them in this application.  Blades with fine teeth aren't usually long enough and tend to burn up in the cut.  I use them if I'm coping from the face without the foot but that's about it.

There are a couple of 45/45 profiles that I touch up the belly on where it gets paper thin with a grinder but I prefer not to work in a dust cloud. 

 

[b_montgo]

Definitely watch the Gary Katz vids. I have been using the ccf on my old Bosch 1587 for a long time now and love it. I also own a Carvex, but am reluctant to use a ccf on it. There is an awful lot of play in the carvex until the blade is fully engaged by the carbide guides which can make correcting your cuts a little difficult. Personally i like the Bosch 1587 because the blade is in closer contact with its roller guide system making blade travel more predictable. I can't speak for other model saws compatible with the ccf and have never used the older Trion that Gary uses in his vid... I'd be interested to see if it has the same amount of initial play as the Carvex.

 

[ear3]

Thanks for the tips!