Using the Conturo to replace edgeband on exsisting cabinets

[Sully b]

Hi This is my first post here, looking for some help if anyone has done this.

We have a new Conturo and a customer who wants us to replace damaged vinyl edge band on a big run of lower cabinets. The old banding is torn up from use and there are no doors in the openings as it's a huge counter top. The customer has asked us to replace the banding w/ new while the cabinets which are built in remain in place. We have done this work by hand w/ wood and spray adhesive in the past but now I would like to use our Conturo to put the adhesive on then lay on the glued banding and roll in place by hand. I plan to trim in situ after the adhesive sets, per nom.
Has amyone done this already?

Thanks in advance

Brian

 

[cdconey]

I've only used it for new cabinet construction.  I'm not sure how well it would for for installed cabinets, the guide plate would limit your travel on the inside of the cabinets, not to mention operating it vertically may impact how the glue transfers to the banding.

If it's a high utilization area I would recommend HPL and a good contact cement after removing the damaged edge-banding.

 

[denovo]

I've done something similar.  I applied the adhesive to the edgebanding with the conturo and then applied the edge banding to the cabinet with a heat gun and laminate roller

I was using real wood edgebanding so it might not work with thin PVC

 

[Packard]

Commercial retail environments are much harsher and more abusive than you might imagine.

I built a small bookcase for the local Starbucks to use as a free lending library.  People donated books and you could borrow or keep your selections.

I made the shelves from melamine laminated sheets of 3/4” particle board.  I used robust construction, but a year later the white plastic edgebanding was delaminating.

I took it back to the shop, and using a hand held laundry iron, I heated up the remaining edgebanding and easily removed it.

I then applied oak edgebanding and stained it dark, and hand brushed clear poly over the wood edgebanding.

I stopped by the store recently and after about 10 years, the replaced edgebanding is in perfect condition.

I used exactly the same method for edgebanding the natural wood edgebanding as I used for the plastic.  For some reason the wood stood up much better.

If it works for the design, the wood with poly seems to be more durable.  I applied it manually with a handheld iron followed by a wood pressure bar to assure best adhesion.

The wood contrasts nicely and added some warmth.  You will have to make samples to show in advance and get approval.

If you need images, I could stop by that Starbucks later this week.  Let me know.

 

[xedos]

I think you're wasting your time.

Conturo will not get into the corners of the cabinet , so you can't use it in situ.

If doing as denovo suggests, you might as well get iron on banding in the first place and save the cost of labor+ wear and tear on the conturo.

If you experiment enough you might be able to run strips through with the adhesive unset enough that you could put them on.

-but-
I'm guessing by the time you figured that setting out I've already got the project done with conventional methods.  And that's IF you can find a combo that works.

 

[sancho57]

I dont know how it would work other then like was previously mentioned use the conturo to apply glue to the edge band and then manually apply it using a iron to reheat the glue.

 

[Peter Kelly]

Can’t use an iron with PVC tape but you could probably pre-apply glue to laminate strips, iron on and roll in place then go over it with a laminate trimmer. Aside from not getting into corners, trying to wrestle a Contoruo around an existing frameless box would suck.

 

[Packard]

I thought the white edgebanding they sell with heat activated adhesive was PVC.  If it isn’t, what is it?  Whatever it is, I find it to be brittle. 

Obviously, the continuous nature of wood fibers precludes brittleness.  In any case, I have found that the wood tape is more durable.  It also tolerates higher heat.  But requires finishing after application. 

I have a very steady hand, and I just brush it on.  I found that taping off with masking tape is not very good.  It is faster and easier to just brush it on.  Keep a piece of toweling at hand in case you goof.

 

[woodferret]

Polyester.  Most PVC come unglued, and are thicker.  Once heated (to apply glue), the PVC is a ticking timer in regards to shelf life.  On my supplier listing, I see 8 pre-glued PVC vs 1289 unglued PVC and pre-glued 17 polysters.  Pre-glued PVCs are all high-turnover colors and they're freakishly thin at 0.018" with one eeking out 1mm.

 

[Peter Kelly]

I’ve seen pre-glued melamine tape as well. Can’t imagine it’d be very durable.

 

[Sully b]

For this job we have to use vinyl 1cm edge banding in a particular color.

I do not intend to use the Conturo to apply the banding only to apply adhesive.

My plan is to run pre-cut banding through the contuo. Hot adhesive will be applied to the banding then, quickly put into place by hand and roll via a J-roller or a heavy steel veneer roller. I suspect if I need to I can use our heat gun or the hot air gun from our Freud edge bander to re-heat if needed.

I have done this same application in past using a commercial spray on adhesive, the Conturo's adhesive is superior.

Has anyone done this?

 

[Packard]

Years ago I had some wood edgebanding with no adhesive backing at all.  I followed directions from one of the magazines and applied Titebond to both surfaces and then ironed on the banding.  It is still holding.

There are a lot of things that I don’t remember about the process.  I only use Titebond III now, but I think I used Titebond I back then. 

I googled the process and there is a video on it.  In my experience, Titebond has stronger adhesive properties than contact cement or iron on cement. 

Here is the video I found:

 

[lwoirhaye]

For this job we have to use vinyl 1cm edge banding in a particular color.

I do not intend to use the Conturo to apply the banding only to apply adhesive.

My plan is to run pre-cut banding through the contuo. Hot adhesive will be applied to the banding then, quickly put into place by hand and roll via a J-roller or a heavy steel veneer roller. I suspect if I need to I can use our heat gun or the hot air gun from our Freud edge bander to re-heat if needed.

I have done this same application in past using a commercial spray on adhesive, the Conturo's adhesive is superior.

Has anyone done this?

That's pretty darn thick and I'll bet the answer is nobody  has done it.

 

[woodferret]

LOL, I figured that was a typo and suppose to be 1.0mm

 

[rjboch]

Even if you could run just adhesive, your work time is super short before it starts to harden. When using as intended, the edge band and adhesive are pretty secure almost immediately (hard to the touch). Don't see how it's possible to apply adhesive then race to apply to cabinet neatly and then roll with enough pressure to make sure it holds and looks good (no lumps). As soon as you apply the adhesive it starts to harden immediately. I typically trim the edge band within a moniute or two and its locked on solid.

It's not vinyl, but I would just glue on some hardwood edge banding.