using the the mfk router making a bead on a 1x3

honeydoman

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it worked great using the router on the edge of the board as shown on the  pictures  due to the base being oblong it really helps to balance it on the edge and make the bead detail.

I was doing a BEAD BOARD project as shown in the finish pictures and I never do basic bead board I always have to fancy it up so it is not like anybody elses.  I am The King of Bead Board!   lol

this small router really worked great for this project.
 
Did I not read that you have the OF1010?  If you do, why did you decide to use the MFK700 instead of the OF1010...?

Of course, if you do not have the OF1010, never mind...  [embarassed]
 
yes i have the 1010 and the 1400  when I was at the cabinet class at festool it was so well balanced that I decided to give it a try on this job I was doing.  the obong base sat better and was lighter and easier to handle.  the 1100 is great but the round base has a tendence to tip a little on such a small surface.  it would work but this just made it faster and easier and smarter!
 
Interesting coincedence.  I'm looking to buy a small router in the next couple of days for jobs very much like this, small edge touches on molding and cabinet doors and drawers.  Strickly 1/4" bit type stuff.  There's no router bit for what I like to do so it's usually ends up being multiple passes with straight and or rounding bits.  Usually bits without bearings because I like each job to be sort of one of a kind.  My 1400 and my router table are killing me, too big, too slow, too bulky, too everything.

My son-in-law has the Colt and I love it, used it for triming laminate and small edge work.  The Bosch Colt kit is $180, the 700 is $525.  For that kind of price difference the 700 would have to be miles ahead of any competitor, far superior to be worth it.  Is that the case?
 
Looks great. 

Do you have the angle arm and the and edgiing  plate for the 1010?  this would be another perfect app for that accessory kit as well

Craig
 
fshanno said:
Interesting coincedence.  I'm looking to buy a small router in the next couple of days for jobs very much like this, small edge touches on molding and cabinet doors and drawers.  Strickly 1/4" bit type stuff.  There's no router bit for what I like to do so it's usually ends up being multiple passes with straight and or rounding bits.  Usually bits without bearings because I like each job to be sort of one of a kind.  My 1400 and my router table are killing me, too big, too slow, too bulky, too everything.

My son-in-law has the Colt and I love it, used it for triming laminate and small edge work.  The Bosch Colt kit is $180, the 700 is $525.  For that kind of price difference the 700 would have to be miles ahead of any competitor, far superior to be worth it.  Is that the case?

I think so, because I also have seveal colts and the base creep up on them and the last job I was doing it sliped up and ruined the piece and had to go to hd get another etc.  and a friend of mine was routing out an oak deal he had built for a kitchen and was just putting an edge around it and same thing it creeped and he had to take it down and redo the whole piece  400 bucks he said it cost him to redo it.  so what is that worth.

this is a solid router, and i also usually do jobs all different so they are not all the same !  I have a rousseau table I used to carry to jobs and set up, but with this router I really do not need it.

go and get it, they have the 30 day deal if not happy.  but it really worked great.!
 
honeydokreg said:
I think so, because I also have seveal colts and the base creep up on them and the last job I was doing it sliped up and ruined the piece and had to go to hd get another etc.  and a friend of mine was routing out an oak deal he had built for a kitchen and was just putting an edge around it and same thing it creeped and he had to take it down and redo the whole piece  400 bucks he said it cost him to redo it.  so what is that worth.

this is a solid router, and i also usually do jobs all different so they are not all the same !  I have a rousseau table I used to carry to jobs and set up, but with this router I really do not need it.

go and get it, they have the 30 day deal if not happy.  but it really worked great.!

Yes they do, they certainly do have a thirty day, no questions asked policy.  How big of them, how generous, how altruistic.  Princes among men they are.  Bull!  They know that suckers like me will get it, love it, realize that anything else is a downgrade and just let that 30 days slip away into the sunset. 

But your point is well taken.  Okay I'll bite, it's pretty important to me and I haven't spent any money on any other small router.  I wouldn't be completely comfortable making that cut you show in the photos with the 1400.  I'd use another piece of wood the same size clamped to the work piece for more support.  And that's time consuming and entails it's own frustrations.
 
yep you got that right!  but as you said you would have to clamp another peice and that takes time.  plus the 1400 is tippy on a small edge.  that is where this router shines.  plus it works great for edgebanding trimming, and those few times you have a laminate counter top you make that you have to trim out.

and all other sorts of uses you will find once you have it in your tool collection !  enjoy
 
Interesting.

I went back and reread your post and looked more closely at the photos and I can see, and agree with, your points.  I never thought about it that way.  The 1010 has been so easy to use but all my usage has been on a table of some sort.

Thanks.

honeydokreg said:
yes i have the 1010 and the 1400  when I was at the cabinet class at festool it was so well balanced that I decided to give it a try on this job I was doing.  the oblong base sat better and was lighter and easier to handle.  the 1100 is great but the round base has a tendency to tip a little on such a small surface.  it would work but this just made it faster and easier and smarter!
 
Yep, that is what makes this router so sweet!  and it was why it was designed.
 
When and tried it.  Sweet rig.  I'll sleep on it and decide in the morning. 

One question.  I do a lot of plywood and melamine shelves with hardwood edge banding.  Usually I go 3/4" wide and put some kind of do-dad profile on the edge.  I'd like to use the horizontal base to trim the edge.  That would mean a narrower edging but the 3/4" is arbitrary so that's not a problem.  But an edge band 1/2 or 5/8 wide with a 1.5 degree slope would look dumb.  Wouldn't the 0 degree horizontal base unit be better for me?
 
yep that would be better.  you could try the degree one and see as 1 degree is not that much.  but the 0 would work great.
 
In the past week I added 1/2" maple as a front to plywood and the MK700 worked wonderfully. I used the standard 1.5 degree offset and I couldn't tell that it was "slanted". I did (as always) hit it with the 150/3 sander.
 
RonMiller said:
In the past week I added 1/2" maple as a front to plywood and the MK700 worked wonderfully. I used the standard 1.5 degree offset and I couldn't tell that it was "slanted". I did (as always) hit it with the 150/3 sander.

I agree, the 1.5 degree angle isn't really noticeable. You can use up to 5/8" or so edging with the horizontal base.
 
Brice Burrell said:
RonMiller said:
In the past week I added 1/2" maple as a front to plywood and the MK700 worked wonderfully. I used the standard 1.5 degree offset and I couldn't tell that it was "slanted". I did (as always) hit it with the 150/3 sander.

I agree, the 1.5 degree angle isn't really noticeable. You can use up to 5/8" or so edging with the horizontal base.

Good, that makes it easy.

This may be really off the wall but I'd like to use it on my Leigh Super 18 dovetail jig.  I don't have a non-plunge routerI suppose the guide bush will screw in, and the MFK handles 8mm bits and 720 watts with overload protection seems powerful enough.  I take it slow anyway to minimize tear out.  I think the base is big enough.  The base on my 1400 isn't that much bigger if any.  What do you think?
 
I used the router again over the weekend to make some  4" wide bead backer board to go between some window detail I was doing.  it worked great again.  and was very easy to use again.  I will post some pics of this job.

 
here is the picture of the detail.  I set the 3//4 x4" board on my mft with the clamps holding it up and ran the bead down both sides of the face.  then I planed the boards through my makita surface planing to 1/2" approx  and then put the long pieces up first then cut the shorter ones I cut a small 45 at each bead on the kapex.

then scribed the cut onto the other piece on the wall and cut with the fein multi master,.  it worked very well.

the board is just like backer board for chair rail except I had to custom make it due to it having to be exactly 4" with a slight reveal  where store bought backer is 4 1/4.

another reason I got this job over the other bidders is because I could do it.  and with the festool system it really saved time on the job site.

 
honeydokreg said:
... I got this job over the other bidders is because I could do it.  and with the festool system it really saved time on the job site.

  I love that statement "because I could do it." And do it so well. Those are beautiful mitered bead joints. It is coincidence that I am working these days with the new product from Kreg Tools. (I presume there is not relationship.) They have created a clever jig to do the mitered corners just as you are doing.
 
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