Using TS55 to cut down rough milled lumber..
- Thread starter adubeau
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I used it the same way on the top speed generally since the saw auto adjusts speed electronically. I haven't had any issues. If I were cutting something like aluminum I would make adjustments, but for the woods I cut, I have not found a need to adjust. I barely use my joiner since getting my REQ TS55.
I was just wondering, as I usually use the Panther blade and turn the speed down a bit straight lining hardwoods, especially with maple or 8/4 stock. Which works fine and results in a somewhat clean cut, but still needs a bit of clean up later (I use hand planes for that). I never get any burning or anything like that. With softwoods I use the 28T blade and keep the speed on 6.
tjbnwi
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The speed was set at 6. I use that speed for all wood.
The primary reason I used the 48 tooth is to should it can be done. I do own the Panther and use it when I feel it is necessary.
I rip 8/4 QSWO with the 48 tooth if it is just one or two rips. I do it in 2 passes.
Tom
The primary reason I used the 48 tooth is to should it can be done. I do own the Panther and use it when I feel it is necessary.
I rip 8/4 QSWO with the 48 tooth if it is just one or two rips. I do it in 2 passes.
Tom
Tom,
Apprec the video. I too have straight line ripped lumber this exact same way - but then i struggled to make a parallel cut on the other side of the board. I rigged up something with equally thick wood spacers...didn't love it. And I rigged up something with the parallel guides...worked but time costly and felt unstable.
I know the simplest answer...draw a pencil line and put the rail on it...but i would prefer something more mechanical than trusting my placement.
How do you do it?
Apprec the video. I too have straight line ripped lumber this exact same way - but then i struggled to make a parallel cut on the other side of the board. I rigged up something with equally thick wood spacers...didn't love it. And I rigged up something with the parallel guides...worked but time costly and felt unstable.
I know the simplest answer...draw a pencil line and put the rail on it...but i would prefer something more mechanical than trusting my placement.
How do you do it?
To get the parallel cut, most times marking with a pencil (or even using a panel gauge) is sufficient, especially if you clamp the rail to the board being cut (assuming it's wide enough for easy clamping). The clamps can help prevent the guide rail from drifting, but it's usually not a problem. You just have to be a little careful, that's all, so take your time to get everything aligned. Use a pencil with a chisel shaped tip or a fine mechanical pencil, as a fat dull regular pencil can be too thick (and the line can even vary in thickness as you use it). A really fine ballpoint pen also works.
You could also use the razor blade/glazier's point method described elsewhere here on FOG. Basically measure the width you want, then tap razor blades in at the right distance (single edged blades, obviously). Then, slide the guide rail over until it just touches the razor blades. Remove the blades before sawing, obviously.
If the board being cut is narrower than the guide rail, but still not super thin, you can rip it by placing another board next to it with the same thickness, to support the back of the guide rail. You just need to make sure the board being ripped doesn't move when you're sawing (tape it or clamp it in some creative way that's safe).
You could also use the razor blade/glazier's point method described elsewhere here on FOG. Basically measure the width you want, then tap razor blades in at the right distance (single edged blades, obviously). Then, slide the guide rail over until it just touches the razor blades. Remove the blades before sawing, obviously.
If the board being cut is narrower than the guide rail, but still not super thin, you can rip it by placing another board next to it with the same thickness, to support the back of the guide rail. You just need to make sure the board being ripped doesn't move when you're sawing (tape it or clamp it in some creative way that's safe).
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