Vecturo Blade Use Guide... Please!

SittingElf

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May 28, 2013
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Shane,

It would be very helpful for Multitool novices (like myself) to have a guide similar to what you developed for determining the best abrasives for a particular use and surface.

A description of each available blade and its intended use would be appropriate. Currently, there is no info like that on any of the dealer sites.... Just nomenclature, picture, and price at the moment.

Cheers,

Frank
FINALLY back in the US of A for awhile... and VERY jet-lagged! [smile]

 
Frank,

Welcome back.  [smile]

I have considered adding a blade search tool for the Vecturo. In the mean time, please reference the chart below.

MSB = Metal saw blade (bimetal blade for metals)
USB = Universal saw blade (bimetal blade for plunge cuts)
HSB = Wood saw blade (with Japanese style tooth configuration, except for round blade)
SSB = Special saw blade (Partial round blade)
SSP = Special scraper (scraper blade)

[attachimg=1]
 

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Great chart Shane!!

For those new to oscillating tools, here are a few suggestions:

1. You WILL burn through blades! Yes, following best-practices and buying higher quality blades will help, but please remember these are not carbide-tipped, $100 blades. When purchased in quantity (25x packs are great!!), even the Festool blades are a reasonable $11-$14. If you think you'll use a blade for a task, make sure you are billing the customer for the full value of a new blade. The cost to the customer is significantly less than buying an oscillating tool, and it keeps your operating costs down.

2. Throw out dull blades. This might sound obvious, but I know many tradespeople who seem bent on warehousing old blades out of which they think they can squeeze one last cut. I keep one compromised blade around for cutting crummy materials, otherwise if I can't count on a blade to make a precise, clean cut it goes in the trash. Remember, these blades exist to speed us up and generate revenue.

3. Keep the blade moving. These blades generate heat VERY quickly, and if you focus on one part of the blade for any length of time you'll prematurely wear out those teeth.

4. Nails are different than screws. It has been my experience that these oscillating tool blades generally make pretty quick work of "soft" nails, but screws tend to be a different animal, and have a tendency to be more difficult to cut. Plan accordingly when you're purchasing blades for a job.

5. Use the right blade for the job. The chart that Shane posted above is one of the best I've seen.

6. Plan on hearing protection. Oscillating tools tend to produce a very high volume, high frequency sound, and to protect your hearing make sure you have suitable protection.

7. Let the blade do the work. Just like any other cutting tool, let the weight of the tool inform your feed rate.

8. Dust. Yup, dust extraction on these tools can be a bit tricky. Due to their very nature, a built-in dust boot would be nearly impossible. I've adopted a variety of techniques to control dust, depending on the application. For making cuts into drywall or plaster for electrical boxes, I've found the dust accessories for SDS Core bits to be really nice, otherwise I use a strategically place CT hose and do the best I can. Even with good dust extraction, plan on at least a small amount of stray dust and smoke.
 
Tom Gensmer said:
Great chart Shane!!

For those new to oscillating tools, here are a few suggestions:

1. You WILL burn through blades! Yes, following best-practices and buying higher quality blades will help, but please remember these are not carbide-tipped, $100 blades. When purchased in quantity (25x packs are great!!), even the Festool blades are a reasonable $11-$14. If you think you'll use a blade for a task, make sure you are billing the customer for the full value of a new blade. The cost to the customer is significantly less than buying an oscillating tool, and it keeps your operating costs down.

2. Throw out dull blades. This might sound obvious, but I know many tradespeople who seem bent on warehousing old blades out of which they think they can squeeze one last cut. I keep one compromised blade around for cutting crummy materials, otherwise if I can't count on a blade to make a precise, clean cut it goes in the trash. Remember, these blades exist to speed us up and generate revenue.

3. Keep the blade moving. These blades generate heat VERY quickly, and if you focus on one part of the blade for any length of time you'll prematurely wear out those teeth.

4. Nails are different than screws. It has been my experience that these oscillating tool blades generally make pretty quick work of "soft" nails, but screws tend to be a different animal, and have a tendency to be more difficult to cut. Plan accordingly when you're purchasing blades for a job.

5. Use the right blade for the job. The chart that Shane posted above is one of the best I've seen.

6. Plan on hearing protection. Oscillating tools tend to produce a very high volume, high frequency sound, and to protect your hearing make sure you have suitable protection.

7. Let the blade do the work. Just like any other cutting tool, let the weight of the tool inform your feed rate.

8. Dust. Yup, dust extraction on these tools can be a bit tricky. Due to their very nature, a built-in dust boot would be nearly impossible. I've adopted a variety of techniques to control dust, depending on the application. For making cuts into drywall or plaster for electrical boxes, I've found the dust accessories for SDS Core bits to be really nice, otherwise I use a strategically place CT hose and do the best I can. Even with good dust extraction, plan on at least a small amount of stray dust and smoke.

Tom

Great tips!
 
I don't throw out old blades.  While I no longer use them for the cuts you're mentioning, they can be easily shaped and/or sharpened on a grinder into scrapers, chisels and other specialty blades for many uses.  You can even weld 2 at right angles for a nice corner chisel. You can also weld various things onto them or scallop them with a grinder for use in texturing wood and soft metals. I find that I use all these all the time for example when you're making a quick scale study model before building the real thing.  I've owned a Supercut for quite a few years and at first I was disappointed at how many blades I was going through until I found a second life for them.  A good oscillating tool opens up a whole range of possibilities across many disciplines.
 
Great tips Tom and teocaf,
I have a selection of old blades. I use a zip blade to grind teeth on to them for dry wall, plaster cutting and cutting furring strips attach to bricks/ blocks.

I also spray adhesive sand paper on to them for sanding in tight places that the normal MM or RO 90 can't get to.
I recently attach to the top of the blade to sand under huge cave doors that would be a PIA to remove.

Just a few more ideas,
Rick
 
Yes, great info from Tom and teocaf.

I should have done this before, but want to make sure it's not overlooked...

The Japanese-style blade at the top in yellow are not made for use with the plunge base. The red ones are, but only the 78mm blades are long enough to use with the plunge base. The USB 78's.

Shane
 
qwk351 said:
Thanks for the great advice. Any link or way to print the chart out?

In Chrome, I can right click the image and choose print. You can probably do the same in other browsers.
 
Shane Holland said:
qwk351 said:
Thanks for the great advice. Any link or way to print the chart out?

In Chrome, I can right click the image and choose print. You can probably do the same in other browsers.

Thanks, I did that but it has very small print and hard to read. tried to make it larger but no luck. Might try using my copier to enlarge it.
 
Sorry, I should have thought to have done this earlier. I have made it into a PDF, which should make it easier to print. See attachment below.
 

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