Vehicle Systainer Storage (aka- VehiclePort)

[ericbuggeln]

I was able to make some headway on box van this weekend.  Next step is to build sysports and guide rail holder.  These pics are of tools that I have with me at all times.  Hopefully will work on securing everything tonight and tool stand / saw horse corral later this week.  Weather is turning warm, so will be painting floor and finishing shelving and work table soon.  Going to get a power inverter for battery chargers, cell phone, sirius radio, laptop, and maybe a small fridge from Sams club.  Anyone have experience with power inverters, things to look for, etc

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Shot from my garage shop with tools I have in truck at all times.  Frees up lots of garage space.

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close up of passenger side.  I still need to figure out if I like this configuration and how I will secure tools.  Also need to finish the top, which may have some long, skinny storage.

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close up of drivers side.  I want to make a tool corral with similar 2 x 4 construction that houses tool stands and saw horses.  I plan on getting Rousseau Table saw stand and will be getting two Triton Multi stands tomorrow.
 
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built shelving to hold table saw in.  I am going to build a specific fence holder and probably hang throat plate and bench dog.

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3 Sysports with room for expansion, b/c of addiction problem.  There should be a perfect space to add a guide rail holder in between the sysports and shelving.

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Skinny MFT,  in progress.  I'm thinking of saw horses and multistands in between gas tank and skinny MFT.  The rest of the corral I'm thinking will have a gate like set up with latching lock?

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[ericbuggeln]

I wanted to post and hopefully go back and put descriptions for each pic, but was thwarted.  [Ned Young schooled me on this] I had been looking for custom work vans and trailers and didn't see much so I thought some might be interested.  Most companies wanted $2000.00 - 3000.00 to outfit the whole van, but didn't really have what I wanted.  This set-up was dirt cheap using mostly Kreg screws I already had, some leftover 2 x 4's and scrap MDF(which I double prime/sealed)  The sysports ply and drawer slides will be the only real cost.
The prerequisites were in no particular order... 4 x 8 sheet goods easily slide in, ladders and scaffolding slide in, tools all have permanent homes, tool stand/ saw horses corral, festool sysport area with guide rail home and room for expansion, some leftover room for screw storage / small tools drawers, and most importantly really quick, easy, cheap yet strong enough to last design.

 

[Ned]

I wanted to post and hopefully go back and put descriptions for each pic, but was thwarted.

It's not too late, Eric.  Click the Modify button for your post.

Where you want the first image in your post, click Insert Inline Image... and choose Attached Image as Thumbnail.  Type your caption after the magic text that was just inserted.

Repeat until you've put captions on all your images.

They [edit:  The pics] only appear at the end of your post if you haven't indicated where to put them.

BTW, nice dog.  Festool Green eyes?

Ned

 

[Texastutt]

Something to be said for cube vans, boy there seems to be more room in there than in my trailer.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Thanks Ned for hooking that up.  I had a hard time getting the right caption with the last pic. but all in all it was a fine learning experience.

Texastutt,  My sister graduated from law school in Austin, fun weird town. 

I am able to fit 4 - 24 ft extension ladders and a Little Giant and Gorilla Ladder (same thing) with 13 ft scaffold board with ladder jacks also.  I move a 32 and 40 foot ladder also, but they hang out the back and I bungee the door down, works well with red flag. 
This unfinished area in the middle also is used for hauling of anything else, but frequently Graco Magnum 495 Paint sprayer, Dewalt Tile saw which is awesome (I will do a review if anyone is interested), a Devilbiss Pressure Washer, Stihl Backpack blower, Shopvac, etc.
So far Im loving this thing.  If you drive around a lot, its probably not good.  In ct it is about $100.00 to fill it up.

 

[Dan Clark]

...
Dewalt Tile saw which is awesome (I will do a review if anyone is interested)
...

Eric,

I have one, so I'm interested.  Especially the blade(s) that you use.  Any tips on blades, especially for getting chip-free cuts in soft stone like Limestone and Travertine.

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Dan, I'm still on the original blade.  I haven't noticed any change in the condition of the cut.  I have used it for about 10 baths, 3 kitchen floors and a few backsplashes, mostly ceramic, some porcelain.  Prior to owning this I used to rent the one from the Depot (MK), so its the only thing I can compare to.  I have checked out the MK Hot dog blade and it is the one that they recommend at coastal discount power tools which you may be familiar with.  They're a short drive across the ct river from me.  I'll probably get it sooner or later at $59.95?  I'd be interested in your blade thoughts.  Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

 

[Dan Clark]

Eric,

I've heard good things about the MK Hot Dog.  I have a Pearl Porcelain blade too that gives better, faster cuts than then standard Dewalt blade.  It does nicely on Granite and Porcelain tile, but still has some chipout on Limestone.    I just got a blade at Master Wholesale specifically for marble and soft stone.  It's a bit better than the my marble and stone blade, but still not quite perfect. 

I'm still trying to get minimal chipout to reduce the number of cuts I need to make.  The shower I'm working on currently will have 16 X 24 limestone tile cut down to 8 X 12.  Then, if I can't match the 1/16" bevel on the production edge, I'll have to trim off the production edge.  Something like 350 cuts and 600 edges to hand bevel.  just for the shower.

Dan.

 

[Eli]

I'm sorry I haven't been able to get back to this thread and dive in, I'm on short turnarounds and working all week. Apologies :-\

 

[Michael Kellough]

.....f I can't match the 1/16" bevel on the production edge, I'll have to trim off the production edge.

Dan.

This is not a craft I know much about but, could you bevel the cut edge with a belt sander and appropriate belt?

 

[Dan Clark]

Michael,

Hi, I think I've moved the thread off-topic.  To answer though, I think that you'd need diamond pads for the final polishing steps at around 400-600 grit.  I have diamond pads - both hand and grinder pads (for my Makita 4 1/2" grinder). 

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Mike,  I was unaware of this process also, but Dan knows his game and I would love it if he enlightened us on this topic, wherever it is now, thanks in advance Dan,  maybe with some nice pics that you love so much ;D

 

[Michael Kellough]

Michael,

Hi, I think I've moved the thread off-topic.  To answer though, I think that you'd need diamond pads for the final polishing steps at around 400-600 grit.   I have diamond pads - both hand and grinder pads (for my Makita 4 1/2" grinder). 

Thanks,

Dan.

I'm sure diamond is the best but I thought limestone would be soft enough to be shaped with a belt. A while back I visited a Mayan temple site being restored in Belize. The workers were cutting fresh limestone blocks out of the sod covered outcrops with course toothed woodworking handsaws. Maybe there is limestone and Limestone 

Also, didn't realize you needed to polish the edge.

 

[Dan Clark]

Michael, I'm going to start a thread in the OT section.

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Michael, I'm going to start a thread in the OT section.

Thanks,

Dan.

Should I delete my posts from this thread?

 

[Dan Clark]

Michael,

No problem.  I provides context for this new thread:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=3198.0.

Thanks,

Dan.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I'm still trying to get minimal chipout to reduce the number of cuts I need to make.  The shower I'm working on currently will have 16 X 24 limestone tile cut down to 8 X 12.   Then, if I can't match the 1/16" bevel on the production edge, I'll have to trim off the production edge.  Something like 350 cuts and 600 edges to hand bevel.   just for the shower.

Dan.

Dan,

I know nothing about this subject, but it sounds like you are or soon will be a solid surface "authority" on FOG, so keep that in mind as you read through the rest of this post!  My experience is limited to cutting tiles with a scoring machine and cutting bricks and stone using an angle grinder equipped with diamond blades and Carborundum FG reinforced wheels before inexpensive diamond blades became commonly available.  Doesn't someone make a router bit you could use (or an abrasive tipped bit) with a cheap (non-Festool) to help you form all those beveled edges?  Or can you do it reasonably uniformly and quickly by hand using an angle grinder and appropriate disk?  Or make yourself a jig to secure/locate the tile and help guide the angle grinder?  I'm thinking of a little cradle for the motor housing that would hold the grinder at the right angle you desire.  The cradle would be arranged to allow sliding motion from your left to your right.  And the tile to be beveled would be held in front of that sliding cradle.  By adjusting the forward/aft position of the tile you could adjust the size of the beveled edge to be produced.

Dave R.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I'm still trying to get minimal chipout to reduce the number of cuts I need to make.  The shower I'm working on currently will have 16 X 24 limestone tile cut down to 8 X 12.   Then, if I can't match the 1/16" bevel on the production edge, I'll have to trim off the production edge.  Something like 350 cuts and 600 edges to hand bevel.   just for the shower.

Dan.

Dan,

I know nothing about this subject, but it sounds like you are or soon will be a solid surface "authority" on FOG, so keep that in mind as you read through the rest of this post!  My experience is limited to cutting tiles with a scoring machine and cutting bricks and stone using an angle grinder equipped with diamond blades and Carborundum FG reinforced wheels before inexpensive diamond blades became commonly available.   Doesn't someone make a router bit you could use (or an abrasive tipped bit) with a cheap (non-Festool) to help you form all those beveled edges?  Or can you do it reasonably uniformly and quickly by hand using an angle grinder and appropriate disk?   Or make yourself a jig to secure/locate the tile and help guide the angle grinder?  I'm thinking of a little cradle for the motor housing that would hold the grinder at the right angle you desire.  The cradle would be arranged to allow sliding motion from your left to your right.  And the tile to be beveled would be held in front of that sliding cradle.  By adjusting the forward/aft position of the tile you could adjust the size of the beveled edge to be produced.

Dave R.

I think someone just had a double espresso