Videos of October Offerings, CMS - TI 15

I have added instructional content to my website that details mounting routers, mounting and using the fence and the edge routing dust shroud with starting guide.

I don't have the 1010 mounting section done yet or anything relating to the Sliding Table, Miter Gauge, or Table Extension. I will get do the 1010 section soon, probably tomorrow. The other 3 items have been ordered with my demo' set. This so far has been done using a table I put together with my Rep' on Saturday. It's his demo'.

I think looking over these pages will help clear up most questions on this product and I will try to get the rest of the content done as soon as I can.

Tom
 
Tom,

In your notes on "Mounting the Edge Routing Dust Shroud on the CMS" you write "slide the clear plastic guard down to hold the work piece down on the table during the routing operation."

I don't think the dust shroud should be used as a featherboard and I think the official Festool video shows a small gap (IIRC). Unlike the featherboards on the straight fence, there should be a gap of a couple of mm between the workpiece and the dust shroud.

Here's the video you can see the gap at around the 2.45 mark.

Festool TV 18 Compact Modul System: Kopierfräsen

By the way, your instructions are a million times better than the official Festool ones!

Richard.
 
Intuitively, I didn't think so either, Richard. Then I read the manual...

Here's a quote from the manual.
Adjust the curved guard until the transparent protective cover [29-1] rests on the workpiece.
Click to expand...

I would expect some sort of springy edge if it is to touch the work piece but that's what they said. I'll give it a try when I can and see how it performs.

Tom

EDIT:
I guess I should have watched the video before replying. It looked to me like he did as the quote above says. I don't speak much German so I don't know what he was saying at the time. Perhaps one of our German members can chime in?

Additionally, the still image for this video represents an unsafe practice. It shows this guy performing a routing operation with the elevator crank in the way.
 
Tom Bellemare said:
The CMS comes with a split Fence...

When using the Fence, the first thing to do is attach it. There are 4 threaded holes in the deck that can be used. I'd attach it to the two closest to the bit to start with. That is done using the thumb screws marked "1" in the image below. There is play in this attachment and there are also linear scales on the fence and marks on the tabletop. If the fence is mounted in the back holes, the marking on the tabletop becomes useless and therefore, so do the scales.

The next thing I would do is register the two halves of the fence to one another. I'm using a Stabila held tight across the face of the left half of the fence because it doesn't adjust. Loosen the thumbscrew (#3) and turn the knob (#2) until the two halves are coplanar. When you have them just right, turn the white ring (#4) to zero it. The small thumbscrew (#3) secures it

This split fence can be offset so the table can become a small jointer. Turning knob (#2) backs off the right half by .1 mm for each number on the white ring (#4). The total travel on this one is about 4.6 mm from my zeroed position.

[attachimg=#1]

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom,

There are extra adjustments that may have to be made to a new fence.

The two fence halves may not be parallel. There are white plastic screw adjusters on the top and bottom of the offset half to alter the end furthest from the collet in or out to make the fence half parallel with the fixed half.

Not only that but the same type of adjuster screws are on either side of the fence base to set the whole unit square vertically to the table.

I mentioned this in another thread but the silence was deafening.  [wink]
 
Fair enough Tom, if that's what the manual says! But because there is no elasticity in the fence, I am still reluctant to possibly trap the wood under it. To have the shroud touching the wood makes no sense to me.
 
Thanks, Nigel!

I'll include those. This one only needed the one adjustment but I'll experiment with those other adjustments and include them in the info' on my website to help complete it.

I'm still making my way through the stuff I recorded over the weekend and organizing it to be useful.

Tom
 
Richard Leon said:
Fair enough Tom, if that's what the manual says! But because there is no elasticity in the fence, I am still reluctant to possibly trap the wood under it. To have the shroud touching the wood makes no sense to me.
Click to expand...

Like I said, it didn't make sense to me either and I'm still going to have to be convinced through experimentation.

Tom
 
I just finished adding the OF 1010 to my list of CMS router mounting. They are all slightly different but also very much the same. That part is complete now.

I'll work on the fence detail Nigel mentioned later today if I have time.

Tom
 
Here is an unedited version of my first attempt at using the OF 1400 and CMS as a jointer. Prior to starting this video, I put some scallops in the edge of the work piece so it was obvious what I was accomplishing. The scalloped edge was also rounded over by 8mm.

The first thing is setting the "Bearing Shoes", which is the CMS's answer to feather boards.

After one pass, it was pretty clean but I didn't offset the fences enough to be completely clean. I then made a second pass and a mistake...

I failed to reset the horizontal Bearing Shoe and the work piece was now smaller. If you look closely at the end of the edge inspection part, you can detect some snipe.

At first, I didn't realize why I got snipe. Then, just before running a third pass, it hit me that I didn't tighten up the Bearing Shoe. I tightened it up ('could have gone tighter) and ran the third pass. The work piece came out real nice.

Using the CMS as a Jointer

Tom

EDIT:
Please note the sound during the second pass with the loose Bearing Shoe. I knew something was wrong but my mind was sort of overloaded at the time with the video, the new tool, etc. It's a good lesson in listening to your instincts and senses...
 
I fixed the video in Reply #1 to reflect how I better learned to use the Edge Treatment gear.

Many thanks to all those who have offered advice! I am figuring this out as I go. I can tell anyone that, without exception, it pays to read the instructions... That's just another example of the famous legislator, "Murphy". He wrote a lot of Laws during his stint in Congress.

Nigel:

When I got serious about calibration, I realized that I had to very slightly adjust both perpendicularity to the tabletop and fence-to-fence angularity. I think I was lucky because I nailed both of them with the first adjustment try. I have added both to my website - Thanks!

Richard:

I am still uncomfortable using the clear plastic dust shroud depicted above as a "downward featherboard". I tried it and don't like it. I'm going to assume that I'm missing something. I'm hoping someone can show me how to adjust it or I stumble upon something that works better than a rigid, unyielding piece of hard plastic. In the video, I left it a little shy of the work piece. I tried putting it down and could not get comfortable with it. As you can see, the dust collection was very good anyway and there's more than one alternative to hold the work piece down on the tabletop.

Tom
 
You're more than welcome Tom.

You have made a real nice job of your 'fence' page etc. Should be a great help to anyone interested.

I was intrigued to see the jointing video. I have always done that without the 'feather board'. Just assumed that you need to press against the outfeed but now I think about it if the fences are perfectly parallel then the feather board should help keep an even edge. It does get in the way a bit on short pieces though.

Nigel
 
I'm in Holland now, packing my stuff for transport to the USA. One of the things I included was my CMS-table and a TS55-insert. I was hoping to be one of the happy few with a CMS-table in the USA and now they will be available for everybody.
 
Tom. Or anybody else who has one and i know there are a few,  can you use zero clearances on the fence when you split it apart?  To avoid tear our ?

Thanks
 
If you're talking about a sacrificial, zero-clearance fence, the answer is yes, Kreg.

There's more than one way to go about it and it can certainly be done.

Tom
 
Yes I am Tom. Thanks. For the response  I will be making a video using the cms  in the near future  just wanted to know
 
This image shows the rear of the fence while at rest on the tabletop. In my opinion, the hose would really get in the way of the WP fence adjuster.

[attachthumb=#1]

Tom
 
A man showed up yesterday with a pallet...

[attachthumb=#1]

[attachthumb=#2]

I got the bare TI 15 and loaded my C 15 and all the chucks with it. There's a place for all 6 of them, 3 batteries, and the charger.

I'll be adding more detail about setting up the slider and table extension as I find the time...

Tom
 
Neil...no need for the WP micro adjust...the CMS adjust is super smooth and accurate...you will be fine with the stock adjustments...You can attach a sacraficial face for zero clearance a number of ways....the CMS router set-up is really nice...I would highly recommend getting the version with the sliding table.
 
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