Wago wire connector nuts

[mwolczko]

Does anyone know why Wago doesn’t make a 4-port lever nut?  I just tried one of the 4-port Chinese knock-offs on Amazon and they’re crap.

 

[Bob D.]

I've wondered that myself. They have 2, 3, and 5 port.

Why no four port version is a mystery.

To me anyway, someone knows the answer.

I only buy the genuine Wago Lever Nuts. There are many tests showing the knock-off items are junk and dangerous as they don't have the load capacity that the Wago nuts do plus; and probably just as important; they are not tested or  listed by UL or another recognized NRTL hence can not be used per NEC.

 

[grobkuschelig]

If you have solid wires, they do „push-in“ versions with 4 contacts.

Don’t know why they don’t do it on the clamping ones...

 

[AstroKeith]

In fact they have a 4 way push-in for solid and stranded wire up to 2.5mm2. photo below. I think the one posted by grobkuschelig is their 4mm2 version, which is indeed for solid wires only.[attachimg=1]

As Bob says, I'd never knowingly buy the Chinese versions. My workshop Chinese made led strip lamps have push in terminals and at least 10% didnt grip under a light "pull test".

 

[Bob D.]

Yes they have the push-in versions but not a 4 port lever nut which is reusable like a twist-on wire nut.

 

[AstroKeith]

Yes they have the push-in versions but not a 4 port lever nut which is reusable like a twist-on wire nut.

Actually the Push-in type are officially re-useable. To release a wire you "twist and pull".
However I also wish they did a 4 way lever style. (Is it to discourage double spurs being run?)

 

[RKA]

My guess is the 2 and 3 are the most common (they are for me at least).  Anything larger might be less common and there isn't much harm in covering both bases with just the 5 if the larger ones only cover 15-20% of sales.  It's not that much larger than a 4, of course, that statement really depends on what you or the electrician crammed into the box.  With all these "smart" things we're jamming into junction boxes these days...there just isn't room.

 

[Sparktrician]

While they're very easy to use, I have learned to not trust stab-in connectors over time.  The spring tabs tend to weaken and get corroded at the contact point, leading to high-resistance shorts, opens and possibly fires. 

 

[DeformedTree]

While they're very easy to use, I have learned to not trust stab-in connectors over time.  The spring tabs tend to weaken and get corroded at the contact point, leading to high-resistance shorts, opens and possibly fires.

Right, that's why folks want the 4 wire lever locks.  Lever locks are amazing, they are not coming free.  Once you use them, you pretty much want to see wire nuts band.  No way the wire is coming out, the exposed bit is extremely small (compared to a wire nut), and you can attach and re-attach over and over, which is very helpful for a number of things.

Push in need to go away.

 

[AstroKeith]

While they're very easy to use, I have learned to not trust stab-in connectors over time.  The spring tabs tend to weaken and get corroded at the contact point, leading to high-resistance shorts, opens and possibly fires.

Right, that's why folks want the 4 wire lever locks.  Lever locks are amazing, they are not coming free.  Once you use them, you pretty much want to see wire nuts band.  No way the wire is coming out, the exposed bit is extremely small (compared to a wire nut), and you can attach and re-attach over and over, which is very helpful for a number of things.

Push in need to go away.

Have you tried to pull wires out of each? It is just as easy to pull wires out of a lever type. The internal wire clamping mechanism is almost identical, the main difference being the lack of insertion force in the lever types. The lever is not a lock, it is a lift. This indeed may make it preferable, but there is not a difference in reliability if the wires are stripped and inserted properly.

If the correct wire stripper is used then there is no increased danger of exposed wires if the transparent plastic is used to view the conductor has reached the end of the receptor, (as per the instructions).

As with other systems, these connectors are for use either within a cabinet, or in conjunction with the Wago junction boxes that include cable strain relief and are self extinguishing if flamed.

I have no connection with Wago, but I have use them for years in a professional capacity and know something about the testing and approval regime they have all gone through. Probably the most stringent in the world. (they are German after all!)

 

[six-point socket II]

Interesting question! I took the liberty of forwarding the question to Wago. Let's see if they feel playful enough to answer.

As AstroKeith pointed out, 221 is spring loaded/tensioned as well.

Correctly installed, genuine Wago connectors will not come loose/corrode or lose tension - and will actually withstand much higher loads than what they are rated for. They are safe-safe.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[tjbnwi]

Neither allowed by code in Chicago, and amendment in surrounding municipalities.

Some recessed lights come with them pre-installed, have to cut them off and wire nut.

Tom

 

[mrFinpgh]

Neither allowed by code in Chicago, and amendment in surrounding municipalities.

Some recessed lights come with them pre-installed, have to cut them off and wire nut.

Sounds like Big Wirenut has taken control. 

The lever nuts are especially handy when a previous individual has not left enough wire in the box.

 

[DeformedTree]

Neither allowed by code in Chicago, and amendment in surrounding municipalities.

Some recessed lights come with them pre-installed, have to cut them off and wire nut.

Tom

Would like to see what it says.  I know things like can lights come with the push ins on them, I cut those off and use Wago Lever Locks.  I can see someone getting lever locks and push ins confused for each other.

The only way a wire falls out of the lever locks is if you don't get it in, in the first place.  I have done my own "testing" trying to yank them out, trying to get one to fail, just not going to happen.

I dislike wire nuts very much, trying to get everything together right is hard and even when you do it all correctly, you still get wires that pull out.  Going thru old stuff, I've found a good number of wires that soon as you move things, a wire will come out the back of the wire nut. It is just too error prone of a method.  Plus you are making wires that are difficult to put back, you pretty much have to keep cutting the ends off and starting over, in time, there is no more wire left.  Then you have the crimp rings, were you have no choice but to cut things each time.

 

[Bob D.]

I like the Wago lever nuts for light fixtures. Most of the new fixtures have lighter gauge wire and sometimes trying to join that with a traditional twist-on wire nut to a piece of #12 or #14 solid wire can be difficult, especially in tight quarters or with multiple conductors.

Not a problem with the lever nuts. And when you want to change the fixture a couple years from now it's a simple task. No straightening of twisted wires as was mentioned and you're not trying to stuff 3 or 4 #12s twisted together into the back of the box.

In the tests I've watched on YT the wire insulation smoked and burnt away before the Wago nut. In short the end result was the same as for a twist-on wire nut. The plastic of the lever nut smoked and melted (same as the twist-on wire nut) but the latching mechanism never let go. And that was at triple the rated amperage of the nut.

I don't like the push-ins. To me they don't give any confidence in the connection. Any time you have a conductor loose enough that you can easily spin it around with such little effort how can you have a solid and reliable electrical connection. I'm not saying they will fall apart on their own (or will they), but there must be a higher resistance at that point created by the loose connection and limited contact area between the conductor and the push-in connector than when you have a more robust connection such as the tried and true twist-on nut.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I like the push-in connectors, I am very glad for us the wire nuts are a thing of the past.

I do realise everything is easier here in 220v country as we only need half the hardware for the same load.

 

[DeformedTree]

I like the push-in connectors, I am very glad for us the wire nuts are a thing of the past.

I do realize everything is easier here in 220v country as we only need half the hardware for the same load.

What gauge/mm^2 wire do you guys run in the walls?

Here the biggest issue is our J-boxes (pattress box) haven't changed in 100 years, the form factor of North American switches, plugs are small, so trying to fit 3 wires in there becomes the challenge (really 6 if feeding the next outlet, and 7 if you count box ground).  Even with the 3.5" deep boxes, if you are doing things like wiring a 20A outlet and have it feeding the next one, you have to go to a square box with cover plate or you violate box fill code.  Newer big devices like GFCI outlets compound this.

 

[threesixright]

I like the push-in connectors, I am very glad for us the wire nuts are a thing of the past.

I do realize everything is easier here in 220v country as we only need half the hardware for the same load.

What gauge/mm^2 wire do you guys run in the walls?

Here (EU, not sure if its universal for the whole EU...) 1.5 mm2 for switches and 2.5 mm2 for sockets. But we run 230V  [tongue]

 

[AlexThePalex]

What gauge/mm^2 wire do you guys run in the walls?

Here the biggest issue is our J-boxes (pattress box) haven't changed in 100 years, the form factor of North American switches, plugs are small, so trying to fit 3 wires in there becomes the challenge

I almost exclusively use 2.5 mm2 and that's what I find most in installations.

And I think our boxes are also becomming too small, it is amazing how much wire electricians put in those things in new installations. The push in connectors sure help to keep everything more organised than those old wire nuts.

I've also never seen them come loose or oxidise.

 

[Bob D.]

here's a chart showing the relationship between AWG, mm Diameter,  and mm2.