Walnut Bedside table finishing advise

[Willhoddell]

I'm almost finished building a pair of Walnut bedside tables, and would like some advise about how to finish them....
I have read that it's a good idea to put some stain on first to balance the colours but I think I'd like to keep them as natural as possible.
[attachimg=1]

 

[Willhoddell]

2nd photo

 

[nclemmons]

Love the designs.  Could you share some more photos - side view for example?

As to finish, An oil and varnish mix would look great.  In the US we have a Sam Maloof finish available which is great on walnut!

Apply it and wet sand it to provide an amazing satin feel to the piece!

Here's a link on how you can make your own - http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/

Look forward to seeing the final piece!

neil

 

[Billedis]

I did a walnut bandsaw box with Osmo poly-x and it really popped the grain but no real color change.  Bill

 

[SittingElf]

I've been researching Osmo Polyx recently thanks to Peter Parfitt's videos.  You actually beat me to it on suggesting it.

As I understand it, Osmo makes coloring agents for their oils as well. I just don't think they are readily available in the USA.

Here's Peter on about Polyx, specifically with walnut.  Cheers, Frank

 

[sancho57]

I'd use a Danish oil that will make the grain pop you can find it coloured but I think a natural would be best with walnut

 

[Mitchwood]

I'd go for Osmo, this walnut floor is finished with Osmo Satin Matt.

 

[deepcreek]

I just finished a Black Walnut piece and tested OSMO on a scrap before deciding on a different finish.

If you've read the latest OSMO thread, you know that I really like the product and use it on a lot of my furniture.  That being said, the Walnut sample really darkened with the first coat and ended up taking three coats to look right.  I was advised against using three coats but with two coats it was completely lifeless.  With three coats, it looks better but still doesn't pop.  For my next test, I plan to try Peter Parfitt's method with OSMO Gloss to see if it gives it better depth.

I ended up using one coat of General Finish's Seal-A-Cell followed by several coats of Arm-R-Seal Gloss and one coat of Arm-R-Seal Satin.  All coats were wiped on with a thick pad as demonstrated by Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) in his simple varnish finish DVD.

 

[Willhoddell]

Love the designs.  Could you share some more photos - side view for example?

As to finish, An oil and varnish mix would look great.  In the US we have a Sam Maloof finish available which is great on walnut!

Apply it and wet sand it to provide an amazing satin feel to the piece!

Here's a link on how you can make your own - http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/

Look forward to seeing the final piece!

neil

Thanks ;-) I found a picture of a similar table on the internet and copied their idea, so I can't claim the design!!. I will post some more pictures when it's finished.
I'll try and get hold of some Osmo X and compare that with some Danish Oil and see what they look like.
Thanks for the advise!

 

[sylthecru]

I like the Festool hard oil, here is my dining room table made up of walnut and ash.

 

[tjbnwi]

Seat is Walnut, edging is Cherry, legs are Ipe, bow tie is Maple. Finish is 2 coats of Surfix outdoor oil.

Tom

 

[NEW2FES]

Just did 2 pieces in walnut and finished 2 different ways. One was a fireplace surround that I simply applied GF Arm R Seal sanding in between coats. It looks as natural as can be but about a month later I noticed the unfilled grain started to show up more. It actually dulled the finish in an odd way as it was flat/satin before.

The 2nd was a cab and I followed someones direction in sanding the piece and not wiping off the sanding dust. I then used Danish oil med walnut applied with steel wool. It created a slurry that filled the grain but not 100%. 3 applications light sanding in between coats. Then applied the same GF Arm R Seal and I think it looks better. I think the Danish oil made the grain pop more. I also do not anticipate the grain issue.

The pieces are next to each other and the med Danish oil is about 1 shade darker and actually gave the piece a richer look. I guess it will also help with the walnut fade. It is not dark at all.

I wil post pics later to show colors.

 

[Willhoddell]

I finished the tables yesterday, decided to use Osmo but couldn't get hold of polyx gloss in Norway so I used polyx satin instead.  Pretty happy with the results ☺ it's been a fun first project with walnut.

 

[rizzoa13]

Just did 2 pieces in walnut and finished 2 different ways. One was a fireplace surround that I simply applied GF Arm R Seal sanding in between coats. It looks as natural as can be but about a month later I noticed the unfilled grain started to show up more. It actually dulled the finish in an odd way as it was flat/satin before.

The 2nd was a cab and I followed someones direction in sanding the piece and not wiping off the sanding dust. I then used Danish oil med walnut applied with steel wool. It created a slurry that filled the grain but not 100%. 3 applications light sanding in between coats. Then applied the same GF Arm R Seal and I think it looks better. I think the Danish oil made the grain pop more. I also do not anticipate the grain issue.

The pieces are next to each other and the med Danish oil is about 1 shade darker and actually gave the piece a richer look. I guess it will also help with the walnut fade. It is not dark at all.

I wil post pics later to show colors.

I've found the same thing with the arm-r-seal. I finished a Cumaru slab table and while the finish is gorgeous the ridges of the grain have become more pronounced with time.

I just redid my red oak hardwood floors and skimmed every inch with timbermate skim able filler and the result is really amazing. It gives the floor much more uniformity and cuts down on the rays soaking up more stain and standing out too much. A matching grain filler like that could be something good to use under the arm-r-seal next time.

 

[Tinker]

Seat is Walnut, edging is Cherry, legs are Ipe, bow tie is Maple. Finish is 2 coats of Surfix outdoor oil.

Tom

@ tjbnwi
Tom, That is a great design and combination of woods.  I like.

I like to mix woods in many of my projects.  I am currently doing a trestle table (will try to install some pics later on) that won't be delivered until early June.  I am trying some mortice and tendon joinery that is somewhat beyond my experience.  It is for family and when finished, the mistooks will just be overlooked "...because Tink never does anything right anyhow..."  (I'm a lefty you see and i have the well deserver rep of being the worlds worst handwriting.  that allows for a lot of other misdeeds to be overlooked)

The feet, legs rail and pegs will be (past point of NO RETURN) Walnut and Ash (my favorite combo). The top will be soft Maple and Cherry.  I have worked a little with Maple on small projects but have never worked with Cherry.  I think the combo will look good.  Some of he dings have occurred in spots where they will be well hidden.
Tinker

 

[tjbnwi]

Thanks Tinker.

Tom

 

[humantorch]

The osmo polyx works like a gem with walnut. I swear by it. It's easy to apply and provides a lasting and beautiful finish. (I posted some pics of a coffee table I did in walnut a while back under a 5/8" domino thread).
Best of luck and I love the design!!!