Want more input on rail lengths for TS 55

W

waltwood

Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2012
Messages
114
I know that asked about this before but I am going to buy this tomorrow. I wanted anyone else's opinion on the use of a 106" rail vs. a 118" rail for ripping 8' plywood. I don't want to buy them all as someone suggested. The longer one is very expensive to me and I will buy it if it works better. A couple guys said the longer one gave you more room for starting and ending the cut. That sounds reasonable but if the saw plunges it would seem like you would not need much starting room. Are there any videos of the use of a TS 55. I could not find one.
Also, is there anywhere that sells Festool for less and how often does Festool offer discounts such as 10% off. I need to buy this long rail at a store so I am going to a Woodcraft because it ships by truck only if I buy online and that would be expensive. I asked them for a price on a CT 26, TS 55 and 2 rails and they offered very little $'s off for that group.
I am new to this stuff so thanks for the advice.
Walt
 
I trust the OP won't mind me sharing this link



and check out Bob Marino's website, he's great to order from.
 
Walt,

 If I where you, I would buy the 118" rail.  If you plan on buying the Parallel guides in the future, the 118" will give you plenty of room for attaching the P

guides.   I like to have enough rail at the start of the cut to support the full base of the TS55.  If you don't have enough room for the start of the cut

the blade will not cut thru the edge of the board.  I made a video of me using the TS 55 with two 1400 rails and the P guides.



Good luck buying Festools for less.  For that you need to keep and eye out on ebay.

A good Festool dealer has free shipping.  I have bought from Bob, Tom and the guys at Toolnut with great service from all three.

Hope this helps.

Eric
 
Blackberry said:
I trust the OP won't mind me sharing this link



and check out Bob Marino's website, he's great to order from.
Click to expand...


No Blackberry....I don't mind at all!    [big grin]
 
Walt,

As far as I know, buy a (certain?) power tool and a vac and you get %10 off the vac as a set.

With regard to rail length, yes the saw does/will plunge, but it is always better when possible to plunge fully then cut. There is a stop that must be mounted to the rail for making plunge cuts to prevent kick-back.

The TS saws come with a rail and you can upgrade to a longer rail for the difference in price. for the difference of $30 I would go for the 118" rail, you will truly appreciate the length difference.

I say this as someone who has a TS75 and only 110 inches of rail (FS1400x2). If I do not place my rail(s) perfectly I cannot make a 96" cut.
 
waltwood said:
I know that asked about this before but I am going to buy this tomorrow. I wanted anyone else's opinion on the use of a 106" rail vs. a 118" rail for ripping 8' plywood. I don't want to buy them all as someone suggested. The longer one is very expensive to me and I will buy it if it works better. A couple guys said the longer one gave you more room for starting and ending the cut. That sounds reasonable but if the saw plunges it would seem like you would not need much starting room. Are there any videos of the use of a TS 55. I could not find one.
Also, is there anywhere that sells Festool for less and how often does Festool offer discounts such as 10% off. I need to buy this long rail at a store so I am going to a Woodcraft because it ships by truck only if I buy online and that would be expensive. I asked them for a price on a CT 26, TS 55 and 2 rails and they offered very little $'s off for that group.
I am new to this stuff so thanks for the advice.
Walt
Click to expand...

Hi Walt and Everyone,

In the USA, all authorized dealers are required under their franchise contract to sell Festools at the same price. There are Festool deals when you combine a dust extractor with a sander or saw, and a MFT with a saw. Double check with your dealer about details.

I started off with a TS55 and 3 55" rails, plus 2 rail connectors. I easily could have afforded the 3000mm (118") rail but back then in 2006 I did not own a truck with a lumber rack to transport it from shop to shop. Instead I would carry the 3 rails disconnected. Once I would arrive I would use one rail to ensure that the other 2 were aligned after being connected. Then I would use the connected rail for the long cuts and the single rail for the shorter cuts. After a few days I found handling that coupled rail natural to me.

The combined length is 110" which was no problem making 8' cuts. Then a project came up which I could build in my condo. It is not possible to move a 4x8' sheet into the former bedroom I was using as my workspace. Also, a 3000mm (118") rail did not leave me room to walk around it. I knew from a couple of years using the 110" coupled rails that I could make 8' cuts so long as I was careful positioning the rail on the sheet material.

A couple of months after buying the 2700mm (106") rail I broke down and bought a truck with a proper lumber rack. The day I took delivery of that truck I drove to my dealer and bought the 3000mm rail. Both have their place, but I suggest buying the longer one if you have space to use it.

Frankly I suggest that DIY Festool users save the price of the rails longer than 1900mm (75") but be sure you have 2 rails to couple, plus one for the shorter cuts. If you use a TS75, then couple a 55" to a 75" rail and buy another 75". I also suggest that one or two 55" rails be 'Holy Rails' for use drilling shelf-pin holes. Bought new they cost only slightly more than the non-Holy rails and those holes do not limit use of the rail for sawing and routing.
 
If you already got a 1400 rail you could buy another 1400 rail and a connector. That will give you what you need w/ enough length to use the P guides ( Barely).

I used that method for about 2 years.

I finally went and got yhe 3000 because it got old connecting them and unconnecting them.

I got the 3000 b/c I use the P guides. They work great b/c of the extra length.
 
I have a 55 & 75" rails. I hate coupling them together,  just when you have them together you have to take them apart to make a cross cut.
my brother works for a Makita rep dealer I just bought a 118 inch rail from them and cannot wait to true up some edges of 1 3/4" stock that I have to make a table [smile]

I would go away from coupling them, it takes time and for me its work not a hobby so wasting time messing with rails is lost $.
 
Walt,

Price is the same whether it is shipped or not.  If the $ are not a problem then upgrade the 55" to the 75", and get the 118".  The 118" is $30 more than the 106" the 75" is $80 more than the 55".  If you can only do one , the 118" is nice to have , but the 75" is a more important upgrade.  The 55" only leaves 3 1/2" for the start and end , less if using the hose deflector or cutting oversize  plywood.

It is better not to have to plunge into the cut or retract  from the work piece at the end, the saw tends to take an extra nibble at the corner.

Seth
 
Thanks. I am convinced on the 118" rail. it makes sense that you don't plunge into the work unless you are cutting out an opening or the like. I have not seen one used until now.
I do this work for a living. I had another use in mind for this saw also. To straighten very bowed hardwoods before milling. i have used about every method and I am good with the power planer roughing it out good enough to go to the jointer but that is still slow and a lot of shavings. Seems like this saw would be cleaner and easier.
 
depending on the thickness of your hardwood boards...you may want to get the TS75.  Deeper cutting ability and more power.

Just a thought.

Eric
 
Since you are doing this for a living I'd say get the 75 118 combo it will pay for itself quickly.

Yes, straight line ripping  is another reason for the 118, I do it all the time. The saw and rail are prefect for the job. It is  a great way to do it because you can see exactly what part of the wood you are going to remove.

Seth
 
i have the 3  1400mm rails. its great but a pain to have to set up.
i will buy a 300 eventually . but just for the shop (or garage where i cut down my sheets
 
Just got the 118 over the shorter one for the ts55 and it seems to be worth it to have the extra length.
Now- where to store it?? Its huge! (Brooklyn shop, small garage space...)
I put two red dots on the surface, one at each end, marking even overhang front/rear, so there's a good space for the saw to start/finish a cut.
Saves a few moments of fiddling while laying out the rail for breaking down panels...
 
panelchat said:
...Now- where to store it?? Its huge! (Brooklyn shop, small garage space...)
Click to expand...

Use the "case" it came in, leaving one end open, and fasten it to your ceiling, allowing enough space in front of it to pull out the full length.

Then, put a "pull cord" through the hole at the end of the rail, so that you can pull it out of it's case.

Picture095.jpg
 
barnowl- thanks, thats hilarious!
unfortunately my ceiling is 12 feet high.
but maybe i could do the same approach on a wall?
room still too small tho.
or maybe on a wall, hinged along the bottom so it opens up like a tray... over my "rip" cut table...
thinking out loud... solved! thanks for the suggestion!

 
Nice table setup, looks perfect.
Wonder if Festool will ever sell a steel roll up rail like the Mafell?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Advice for buying used TS 55
Replies
18
Views
501
luvmytoolz
luvmytoolz
onocoffee
Blade for ATF 55 E?
Replies
6
Views
219
onocoffee
onocoffee
R
My disappointments with my new TS 55 tracksaw
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Jim_in_PA
Jim_in_PA
onocoffee
The TS 75 is of Legal Age???
Replies
15
Views
821
onocoffee
onocoffee
A
FESTOOL TS 55 EQ 110V
Replies
2
Views
629
antonio-1976
A
Back
Top