Welp...Making the Kapex better IS actually possible.

[skids]

I just put on the Tenryu (MP-26080AB) 80T Blade, made a few cuts and I can't say enough good about this blade. It really makes the saw feel better. I just blew through about 30 cuts in white oak (stair treads)  it felt like the saw moved through the material with less effort. There was also much less tear out, which is to be expected from the increased teeth (80), but the tooth configuration seems to make quite a difference.

I am happy to confirm Dan Clarks results and to give a full endorsement to the Tenyru blade for the Kapex. I will be cutting some splintery (is that a word?) material soon and this will be a better test. But through dense oak this blade really just feels ALOT better than the stock 60T blade and produces a superb cut!

 

[semenza]

DC still as good?

Seth

 

[skids]

DC still as good?

Seth

Yes, so far I haven't noticed any difference. Need more time with it to see if I notice anymore on the floor than I did before.

 

[Kev]

Are the blades the same kerf?

 

[skids]

DC still as good?

Seth

So I decided to do a quick A/B test on the two blades..I made 8 passes through Oak tread scraps with the new blade, and 8 passes through Oak tread scraps with the old blade. I can't see any difference between what is left on the saw/ground after the 8 cuts with the new Tenyru 80T and Festool Factory 60t.

What I did notice however is the new blade makes it very easy to push through the material at a faster pace. And when you cut faster through the material it clogs the stream to the DC quicker and sprays little more. This is my observation after watching it closely for 16 total cuts.

Overall, no difference from what I can see. But still need more time with the new blade. So far it's wonderful.

 

[skids]

Are the blades the same kerf?

Kerf is the same, diameter is the same. Rake is different and tooth configuration is ATAF instead of ATB, so that is different as well. Other than those subtle differences (which improve performance) you'd think it was the factory blade on there.

I swear the Tenyru bogs the motor less than the factory blade as well. Maybe because it's new, but my festool factory blade was only a few months old.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Any chance you could post pics of the two cuts for a quick comparison of tear out?  Interested in seeing that if possible.

Thanks!

Scot

 

[semenza]

I'd be curious  how the Tenyru does on a wide 45 miter.

Seth

 

[skids]

Any chance you could post pics of the two cuts for a quick comparison of tear out?  Interested in seeing that if possible.

Thanks!

Scot

HI Scot, here is Dan's post on another site which shows pics. This is why I went for the Tenyru actually. His findings are exactly what I am experiencing.

http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/festool-reviews/2836-kapex-saw-blade-review.html

 

[CarolinaNomad]

skids, did you have to rebore the Tenyru to fit onto the kapex?

 

[skids]

skids, did you have to rebore the Tenyru to fit onto the kapex?

No, its already done. The blade is made for the Kapex.

 

[tbellemare]

Kerf is the same

Isn't the kerf actually bigger? They're claiming the kerf is .110", which is about 2.8mm. The Kapex blades are 2.5mm kerf.

It seems odd that a bigger blade would cut easier. I've always thought that bigger blades took more power because they are removing more material but might be stiffer.

I've seen that ATBR (ATAF) configuration on CMT miter saw blades before. It's an ATB blade with a FTG raker every third tooth. The Festool Universal and Fine Tooth Blades are true ATB blades.

The Festool Fine Tooth Blade had a -5-degree rake and the Tenryu is -3.

Tom

 

[Svar]

It seems odd that a bigger blade would cut easier. I've always thought that bigger blades took more power because they are removing more material but might be stiffer.

Tom

There is good proportional relationship when ripping or cutting particleboards and such, where teeth chop fibers across entire width of the kerf. On cross cut the difference is less noticeable. Most energy on cross cut is dispensed severing fibers on kerf faces; the material in the middle almost crumbles away.

 

[skids]

Kerf is the same

Isn't the kerf actually bigger? They're claiming the kerf is .110", which is about 2.8mm. The Kapex blades are 2.5mm kerf.

It seems odd that a bigger blade would cut easier. I've always thought that bigger blades took more power because they are removing more material but might be stiffer.

I've seen that ATBR (ATAF) configuration on CMT miter saw blades before. It's an ATB blade with a FTG raker every third tooth. The Festool Universal and Fine Tooth Blades are true ATB blades.

The Festool Fine Tooth Blade had a -5-degree rake and the Tenryu is -3.

Tom

Yes, Tom good catch, and technically your are correct in your logic. However, this difference is small enough amount no one will feel it I suspect. Either way, they are both "thin Kerf" in the truest sense since Full is .125 I believe.

One thing I would also mention about the Kapex Blade in relation to the Tenyru blade is the Kapex blade is a variable pitch blade, Which I believe means the throat sizes can vary throughout the Diameter of the blade. Not sure why they do this, guess it's just a technique to produce blades. I guess you can vary either the teeth or the throats on blades. Tenyru varys the teeth config. But what would be different is the size of the dust the Kapex blade throws out will vary as well, where the Tenyru would be consistent dust throughout the cut. Tenyru produces a finer dust..

I dont' necessarilly notice these differences when I cut, maybe i will with more use. But these are all the tech specs to take notice of I guess. An overall more accurate comparison would be for me to put this against the Festool 80T blade. But I have heard that blade doesn't feel much better than the 60T Festool. I can say without a doubt I notice a difference in performance and feel, and cut between the Tenyru and the Festool 60t.

 

[skids]

I'd be curious  how the Tenyru does on a wide 45 miter.

Seth

Seth, what is it you are looking to see..I can slice one up for you and take a pic. I think you would like this blade for you line of work. It's not cheap though..I just figured having an 80t blade for this saw was inevitable anyway. I will use the 60t for decking and framing and this Tenyru gem for finer work only. Blade change on the kapex is so slick I dont' mind swapping at all.

 

[semenza]

I'd be curious  how the Tenyru does on a wide 45 miter.

Seth

Seth, what is it you are looking to see..I can slice one up for you and take a pic. I think you would like this blade for you line of work. It's not cheap though..I just figured having an 80t blade for this saw was inevitable anyway. I will use the 60t for decking and framing and this Tenyru gem for finer work only. Blade change on the kapex is so slick I dont' mind swapping at all.

Because a miter is a partial cross cut and a partial rip cut, I would interested to know how much more resistance you feel when making something like an 8 - 10 " wide miter than on the cross cuts. I notice the Kapex with Festool 60T blade works quite a bit harder on the miters. Just wondering how the 80T Tenyru stacks up.

Seth

 

[deepcreek]

I will use the 60t for decking and framing and this Tenyru gem for finer work only.

I looked at the Tenyru, Forrest, and even the Festool 80T blade but ended up sticking with the Festool 60T blade.

Stock blades from most tool manufacturers are not worth keeping but this one is an exception.

I just completed a kitchen with pre-finished Hard Maple 5-1/4" crown molding and the cuts with the 60T blade were superb.

 

[skids]

I will use the 60t for decking and framing and this Tenyru gem for finer work only.

I looked at the Tenyru, Forrest, and even the Festool 80T blade but ended up sticking with the Festool 60T blade.

Stock blades from most tool manufacturers are not worth keeping but this one is an exception.

I just completed a kitchen with pre-finished Hard Maple 5-1/4" crown molding and the cuts with the 60T blade were superb.

Do you have a ZCI and Aux Fence on your machine? Because in my experience with the stock blade it's very necessary.

I agree, it's better than what you would get on a Dewalt saw for example. But to me the stock blade is like an all season tire, and times trying to be something it just couldn't perform well doing. Maybe I am just partial to higher tooth count blades, but to me the stock blade is very much general purpose, leaning more toward less fine work. I got alot tear out with the stock blade on a recent wainscot project, so I personally wouldn't use the stock blade in a cabinet application or finish carpentry again.

I felt like I was getting by with that blade, with this blade I no longer feel that way and feel like I have dedicated blades for dedicated applications.  e.g. rough work/finish work.

 

[skids]

I'd be curious  how the Tenyru does on a wide 45 miter.

Seth

Seth, what is it you are looking to see..I can slice one up for you and take a pic. I think you would like this blade for you line of work. It's not cheap though..I just figured having an 80t blade for this saw was inevitable anyway. I will use the 60t for decking and framing and this Tenyru gem for finer work only. Blade change on the kapex is so slick I dont' mind swapping at all.

Because a miter is a partial cross cut and a partial rip cut, I would interested to know how much more resistance you feel when making something like an 8 - 10 " wide miter than on the cross cuts. I notice the Kapex with Festool 60T blade works quite a bit harder on the miters. Just wondering how the 80T Tenyru stacks up.

Seth

Plowed through some more white oak, a full tread- put a 45 degree cut through it. Noticed a little more resistance on the cut and a small amount of tear out on the top of the cut. So you were right, but it still felt better to me than the factory blade.

Cutting all this larger deeper material is reminding how much the performance of the dust collection is affected (negatively) the larger the crosscut. When I was cutting 1x material for some finish work I did, the dust collection was perfect. But when I cut stair treads or wider material like it spits alot more all over the saw-factory blade or Tenyru blade. 

 

[deepcreek]

Do you have a ZCI and Aux Fence on your machine? Because in my experience with the stock blade it's very necessary.

I agree, it's better than what you would get on a Dewalt saw for example. But to me the stock blade is like an all season tire, and times trying to be something it just couldn't perform well doing. Maybe I am just partial to higher tooth count blades, but to me the stock blade is very much general purpose, leaning more toward less fine work. I got alot tear out with the stock blade on a recent wainscot project, so I personally wouldn't use the stock blade in a cabinet application or finish carpentry again.

I felt like I was getting by with that blade, with this blade I no longer feel that way and feel like I have dedicated blades for dedicated applications.  e.g. rough work/finish work.

I understand about using premium blades.  I had a $185 90T Forrest Chopmaster Signature on my 12" Dewalt slider and the 60T Festool (manufactured by Leitz) performs just about as well.  I don't have a ZCI and only use an auxillary fence for small stuff like shoemold.  I did use a continuous crown stop for that pre-finished Hard Maple.

The only time I've noticed "a lot of tear out" is when I push the blade too fast or it is getting dull.  My point is the stock Festool blade is quite capable of making fine finish cuts on hardwoods and does not need to be relegated to "decking and framing".