Wenge and Hickory Using Tapered, Splined Dovetail
- Thread starter DavidCBaker
- Start date
Eiji Fuller said:
WOW!
Thanks Eli... That is EXACTLY what I've been out after.
HSS cutters, thought I would never go back to them, but I'm sold on this set-
http://www.woodrat.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=W&Product_Code=9684&Category_Code=CS
Tusen tack!
David,
I love the woodworking you have done and they way you so thoroughly document the process.
I also really appreciate your willingness to take a few "risks" in trying new things and not getting down on yourself when you do make a mistake.
Great stuff!
Neill
I love the woodworking you have done and they way you so thoroughly document the process.
I also really appreciate your willingness to take a few "risks" in trying new things and not getting down on yourself when you do make a mistake.
Great stuff!
Neill
DavidCBaker
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gojira said:
Yes, I think a bear guide would give me a lot more control. I'm going to try that next time. And thanks for the kind compliment.
tigger
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- Apr 1, 2010
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Nice Job David [thumbs up]
You have really become one of the posters on this forum I look out for. [popcorn]
It's so cool to see you try out this whole "woodworking thing" without fear. You have good reason to be proud.
Well done - I look forward to seeing your next project.
Cheers
Leon
You have really become one of the posters on this forum I look out for. [popcorn]
It's so cool to see you try out this whole "woodworking thing" without fear. You have good reason to be proud.
Well done - I look forward to seeing your next project.
Cheers
Leon
DavidCBaker
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Thanks, Leon. And greetings from a sailboat off the coast of Seattle.
David,
I just had another thought.
What if you were to cut a bevel starting at the flat of the DT spline and going to zero at the top and bottom of the box side. That would actually look really cool and intentional. A sharp chisel would make quick work of that.
Eiji
I just had another thought.
What if you were to cut a bevel starting at the flat of the DT spline and going to zero at the top and bottom of the box side. That would actually look really cool and intentional. A sharp chisel would make quick work of that.
Eiji
DavidCBaker
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Eiji Fuller said:
Interesting idea! I think I'm going to leave this box as is and call it a "design" decision, and then make sure I incorporate some of these ideas in the next round, like more than one spline per corner and somehow eliminating the short spine by either cutting a taller one or shallowing up the cut.
DavidCBaker
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tiralie said:
Thanks, Tim! I used a f 1.2 lens for the shot to give me that level of DOF.
Corwin
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David said:
Hey there, landlubber,
Better check that chart again, as Seattle is not on the coast. True, it is on the the shore of Puget Sound -- but that's not the coast. So, did you miss out on all of the fog -- no, I mean that cloudy stuff that prevents you from seeing very far. Anyway, sorry you got wet yesterday and I hope today is a big improvement. And, if you get up this far north, be sure and wave as you sail by -- I'll be the one out on my deck waving... [big grin]
David,
Great job on your first dovetail spline project!
I would like to address some of the issues you have brought up because I realize you aren't entirely happy with your kit. First, I would like to apologize for you having obviously received a set of old instructions. Evidently we didn't throw all of them away, and one was included in your kit; and I agree they were quite dated and confusing. This is the reason for you having set your saw blade to 14 deg, as that used to be the standard bit angle included in the kits, but we discovered the 8 deg was more popular. I'll be happy to send a new set of instructions if you'd like.
I'm curious to know what you didn't like about the magnetic stop block which was provided in your kit. I noticed you removed the magnets from the one provided and installed them on your own; not knocking your design at all it's pretty nifty! But we've never had a complaint about the one we do provide, so any feedback you'd like to share would be greatly appreciated. We're always improving on the design of all the components as much as possible so any input about why you didn't like the in your kit will be given due consideration. When you say the rest of the kit was "poorly done" are you referring mainly to the instructions, or was there some inaccuracy in the HDPE spline maker? Your splines look spot-on so I'd hope that it was satisfactory.
I noticed you were testing your splines in a 2 x 4. On top of having sent you old instructions, please don't tell me you did not receive the spline tester and sample spline? That would be embarrassing to know two mistakes were made on the same day, much less in the same order. Your kit should have had a small white folded bag in it, shrink-wrapped inside the HDPE spline maker along with the magnetic stop block (which I see you did receive because of the three magnets) and inside the bag should have been a small rectangular piece of HDPE with a groove in it (which matches the profile of one of the bits you received with your kit) and also a sample spline. Wrapped around those was your instructions. Our fulfillment card for your order indicates you did receive it but I want to double check. That's what you should use to test your splines.
As to the carbide bits that come in your kit having shaft bearings, your hunch is correct in that bushings provide much better versatility as to depth of cut. Unfortunately many woodworkers don't have them. We could provide bushings, but unfortunately again many woodworkers do not have routers that are compatible to PC style bushings, and there's no universal bushing kit that will fit all the various styles of router bases. So, we provide bearings so the kit can be used by anyone right out of the box.
Until you get a guide bushing set up for your Festool router, the best way to get splines that are tall enough to be a little proud of the corner (which is what you want) is to simply make your spline blanks a little thicker. The thicker the spline blanks the taller the splines.
We have made many changes to this system since we purchased the company especially in the quality and accuracy of the actual spline jigs themselves, but we still have many more in the works as we speak, and more on the drawing board. They used to be extruded from plastic and were not nearly as accurate and precise as the aluminum ones we produce now. Also, the spline makers used to be manufactured with hardboard and softwood, so the HDPE versions are an order of magnitude better in look, feel, reliability, and durability. The expansion and contraction of HDPE is the same in every direction, and is very slight anyway so no more variations in the splines due to the differences in tangential and radial movement inherent in wood.
Thank you for your review of our jig and the overall opinion that our kit is worth the price, but please don't hesitate to let me know how in your opinion we can improve our products. All customer feedback is given serious consideration, and our goal has been and always will be your complete satisfaction. So please let me know personally what I can do to remedy the shortfalls you experienced with your order. Email us or call our customer service line any time.
Best regards, Kevin Jaynes.
Kehoe Dovetail Jig Co. Ltd.
support@dovetailsplinejig.com
Customer Service: 903-664-4444
Great job on your first dovetail spline project!
I would like to address some of the issues you have brought up because I realize you aren't entirely happy with your kit. First, I would like to apologize for you having obviously received a set of old instructions. Evidently we didn't throw all of them away, and one was included in your kit; and I agree they were quite dated and confusing. This is the reason for you having set your saw blade to 14 deg, as that used to be the standard bit angle included in the kits, but we discovered the 8 deg was more popular. I'll be happy to send a new set of instructions if you'd like.
I'm curious to know what you didn't like about the magnetic stop block which was provided in your kit. I noticed you removed the magnets from the one provided and installed them on your own; not knocking your design at all it's pretty nifty! But we've never had a complaint about the one we do provide, so any feedback you'd like to share would be greatly appreciated. We're always improving on the design of all the components as much as possible so any input about why you didn't like the in your kit will be given due consideration. When you say the rest of the kit was "poorly done" are you referring mainly to the instructions, or was there some inaccuracy in the HDPE spline maker? Your splines look spot-on so I'd hope that it was satisfactory.
I noticed you were testing your splines in a 2 x 4. On top of having sent you old instructions, please don't tell me you did not receive the spline tester and sample spline? That would be embarrassing to know two mistakes were made on the same day, much less in the same order. Your kit should have had a small white folded bag in it, shrink-wrapped inside the HDPE spline maker along with the magnetic stop block (which I see you did receive because of the three magnets) and inside the bag should have been a small rectangular piece of HDPE with a groove in it (which matches the profile of one of the bits you received with your kit) and also a sample spline. Wrapped around those was your instructions. Our fulfillment card for your order indicates you did receive it but I want to double check. That's what you should use to test your splines.
As to the carbide bits that come in your kit having shaft bearings, your hunch is correct in that bushings provide much better versatility as to depth of cut. Unfortunately many woodworkers don't have them. We could provide bushings, but unfortunately again many woodworkers do not have routers that are compatible to PC style bushings, and there's no universal bushing kit that will fit all the various styles of router bases. So, we provide bearings so the kit can be used by anyone right out of the box.
Until you get a guide bushing set up for your Festool router, the best way to get splines that are tall enough to be a little proud of the corner (which is what you want) is to simply make your spline blanks a little thicker. The thicker the spline blanks the taller the splines.
We have made many changes to this system since we purchased the company especially in the quality and accuracy of the actual spline jigs themselves, but we still have many more in the works as we speak, and more on the drawing board. They used to be extruded from plastic and were not nearly as accurate and precise as the aluminum ones we produce now. Also, the spline makers used to be manufactured with hardboard and softwood, so the HDPE versions are an order of magnitude better in look, feel, reliability, and durability. The expansion and contraction of HDPE is the same in every direction, and is very slight anyway so no more variations in the splines due to the differences in tangential and radial movement inherent in wood.
Thank you for your review of our jig and the overall opinion that our kit is worth the price, but please don't hesitate to let me know how in your opinion we can improve our products. All customer feedback is given serious consideration, and our goal has been and always will be your complete satisfaction. So please let me know personally what I can do to remedy the shortfalls you experienced with your order. Email us or call our customer service line any time.
Best regards, Kevin Jaynes.
Kehoe Dovetail Jig Co. Ltd.
support@dovetailsplinejig.com
Customer Service: 903-664-4444
DavidCBaker
Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2010
- Messages
- 537
Kevin, thanks for the long reply. I'd love to get a new set of instructions, if possible. You can fax them to 615-831-2212. If that doesn't work, I'll PM you my mailing address.
The magnetic stop block has the magnets attached to the wrong side. In other words, they were 90 degrees off. Since I had to take them off, anyway, I decided to make a more substantial one. In other words, they were assembled incorrectly when I got them.
The routing template was particularly well made and worked splendidly. I also did receive the template pieces, but they assume a certain thickness, which I didn't have the luxury of duplicating. Thus the trial and error (on my part) in getting the depth right.
Thanks for jumping into the thread and clarifying some things. I found your feedback helpful.
The magnetic stop block has the magnets attached to the wrong side. In other words, they were 90 degrees off. Since I had to take them off, anyway, I decided to make a more substantial one. In other words, they were assembled incorrectly when I got them.
The routing template was particularly well made and worked splendidly. I also did receive the template pieces, but they assume a certain thickness, which I didn't have the luxury of duplicating. Thus the trial and error (on my part) in getting the depth right.
Thanks for jumping into the thread and clarifying some things. I found your feedback helpful.
Glad it helped. On the stop block issue, anytime you're doing production work using an index tool (such as the stop block), it's best to design it so as to have as minimal surface area contacting the material as possible. This allows for the greatest degree of repeatable accuracy. When you have two relatively large surfaces touching each other flush along the full faces such as the spline blank and the stop block as you have designed, if the stop is bumped even slightly it can extrapolate the error a great degree. I'm not critisizing your design if ti works for you keep using it, I just want you to know the possible scenario inherent in such a design in case you begin to notice over the course of cutting dozens of splines you aren't getting the repeatability you want.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
You can see how little area touches the block. Just make sure you index it the same place each time. Of course this is necessary with any design. I hope I uploaded the images correctly - I haven't been on an SMF forum in years and am very rusty.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
You can see how little area touches the block. Just make sure you index it the same place each time. Of course this is necessary with any design. I hope I uploaded the images correctly - I haven't been on an SMF forum in years and am very rusty.
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