DavidCBaker
Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2010
- Messages
- 537
I'm still working on Christmas boxes, trying to make each one with different woods and joints. I decided to try a tapered (1 degree), splined (7 degree) dovetail type joint, making the top and splines out of Wenge and the box itself out of HIckory. Here's the rough box, glued up and ready to wreck (that's what I was afraid of, anyway). This is the first time I've made anything with Wenge or Hickory, and I really loved the process. Hickory, especially, is gorgeous...and hard to find around here, anyway. The lumber yard I bought it from said they get it about once/year.
I cut an extra Wenge piece from which to cut the splines. The grain direction is important if you want them to be more than decorative.
Then it's time to set the left-leaning blade to 7 degrees. Yes, this is set to 14 degrees. I bought the template and jig from http://www.dovetailspline.com and the directions for the thing just plain suck...and are wrong in two places. It says to set the blade at 14 degrees, so I did and cut a bunch of splines, only to find that it's one-half that. And one of the jigs was offset 90 degrees in the wrong direction. Talk about messing with my head.
I used this magnet to keep me from pushing too far and slicing up the jig.
Here's what I had to make to get this thing to work. You slice a spline off, flip the wood over and cut another one off, etc. The poplar stop on the left side helped me keep the width of the spline exactly right. You can see the cut splines to the left of the blade. All in all it worked great.
Then a test, which works well in a 2x4. Cheap and not as hard to make as a box! The price of the kit from the Kehoe fellow (link above) is worth it for this jig. The rest of the kit is poorly done with inaccurate instructions. I don't know if you can see or not, but the splines are tapered at a 1 degree angle. So they fit in only one direction, and very tightly. They have to be hammered in, actually.
Fits beautifully.
Time to take a deep breath, cross my fingers and cut the box.
Using this bit and the MFK700.
Here it is before I remove the jig/template.
Here's a shot of the tapered spline glued in place. You can go very sparingly with the glue, as almost all of it gets squeezed out.
I'll spare you pictures of cutting the splines proud and all the sanding (RO 125 and DX 93) and just present the finished box.

I cut an extra Wenge piece from which to cut the splines. The grain direction is important if you want them to be more than decorative.

Then it's time to set the left-leaning blade to 7 degrees. Yes, this is set to 14 degrees. I bought the template and jig from http://www.dovetailspline.com and the directions for the thing just plain suck...and are wrong in two places. It says to set the blade at 14 degrees, so I did and cut a bunch of splines, only to find that it's one-half that. And one of the jigs was offset 90 degrees in the wrong direction. Talk about messing with my head.

I used this magnet to keep me from pushing too far and slicing up the jig.

Here's what I had to make to get this thing to work. You slice a spline off, flip the wood over and cut another one off, etc. The poplar stop on the left side helped me keep the width of the spline exactly right. You can see the cut splines to the left of the blade. All in all it worked great.

Then a test, which works well in a 2x4. Cheap and not as hard to make as a box! The price of the kit from the Kehoe fellow (link above) is worth it for this jig. The rest of the kit is poorly done with inaccurate instructions. I don't know if you can see or not, but the splines are tapered at a 1 degree angle. So they fit in only one direction, and very tightly. They have to be hammered in, actually.


Fits beautifully.

Time to take a deep breath, cross my fingers and cut the box.

Using this bit and the MFK700.

Here it is before I remove the jig/template.

Here's a shot of the tapered spline glued in place. You can go very sparingly with the glue, as almost all of it gets squeezed out.

I'll spare you pictures of cutting the splines proud and all the sanding (RO 125 and DX 93) and just present the finished box.
