What don't you like about Festool...

[Chuck Gifford]

Will this do?

Quick clamp, for use with MFT and quide rails, Qty. 1, FS-HZ 160   
Item # 491594 
Price $32.50

Those are the one's I have Mike. Maybe I'm missing something on using these type clamps and just haven't figured it out yet. Hopefully someone can help me if that's the case. But what I have found is that it takes one hand to hold the clamp against the shaft it slides on and down against what ever I am clamping. At the same time, I use my other hand to operate the ratchet. Not a problem when clamping to the MFT because I don't have to support or hold the material that I want to clamp. But when trying to clamp something to the side of the MFT table using the guide rails, I usually have to jeri-rig something to hold the material in a rough clamping position until I can get some clamping pressure on it, then make subsequent clamping adjustments to get it into final position with maximum clamping pressure. If anyone has any better idea on doing this please let me know. Thanks for trying to help me out Mike.

 

[Dave Ronyak]

Will this do?

Quick clamp, for use with MFT and quide rails, Qty. 1, FS-HZ 160   
Item # 491594 
Price $32.50

... But when trying to clamp something to the side of the MFT table using the guide rails, I usually have to jeri-rig something to hold the material in a rough clamping position until I can get some clamping pressure on it, then make subsequent clamping adjustments to get it into final position with maximum clamping pressure. If anyone has any better idea on doing this please let me know. Thanks for trying to help me out Mike.

If the workpiece is small enough, I use an Irwin Quick Clamp to temporarily hold the work against the vertical surface of a side rail of the MFT.  The back end of the Quick Clamp grips the back side of the table rail.  Then I insert a Festool clamp into the side rail. 

 

[Jesse Cloud]

If the main discount they want to offer is the "package" deal, I wish they would get more creative than just dust extractor + x.  I have a dust extractor, I like it very much thank you, but I don't need another.

My Festools so far are saw, sanders, and mft.  I'm thinking about "plunging" (pun intended) into Festool routing and a router + mfs package would probably push me over the edge. ;D

 

[SaltyDog]

The silly hose. It would be really nice to have a cover that was SLIPPERY, and perhaps even carried the power cord along with.

(hmm I do have a sewing machine...)

It snags on the table top, the work piece and of course the rails. I don't have room to put in the overhead boom, I guess I could use a ceiling mounted pulley and counter weight to get it up and out of the way.

S

 

[Tinker]

Like most of you, I really like all of the Festool stuff I have. Like anything else, nothing is 100% perfect though. So it thought it might be kind of cool to hear some things you guys don't like about the tools you have.

Mine is a very simple thing. I don't like the clamps for the rails. With the way things are, it can sometimes be a real pain to get things clamped correctly when dealing with small pieces. One of my ideas, and I'll get arouind to doing it someday, is to take the existing clamps, cut them, and add a piece to them that will allow them to swivel. My thinking is that if the clamps swiveled, you'd have a whole lot more flexibility in how you clamps things to the rails. You'd be able to get the clamp much closer to the edge of the rail this way. I know how to get around the limitations with the clamps the way they are, its just a little thing that has always bugged me though.

Who knos, maybe somebody will post something in this thread that will get noticed by Festool too. I'm curious to see what anyone has to add...

I see your point Lou.
I was trying to make T&G joints on long narrow boards yesterday. (My very first use of the 1400)  The boards were not wide enough for me to clamp seperately.  I just put two boards side by side and used a coulle of scrap pieces underneath and set my clamps.  The far side of the backup board was clamped to the bench (not my MFT which for space reasons was not possible to use)  The combination worked great as long as i climb cut with the router.  i tried going the other way with the router and the board I was cutting got kicked out.  Luckily it was the back side and i was expecting the problem.  As long as i climb cut, it worked great.

BTW, I have the small clamps and a set of the quick release (All Festool) and they are the most used clamps in my shop.  I am going to get a a couple of sets of the longer ones (I don't have all the numbers right handy).  They all work great, not just with the MFT's but all over my shop.  I would NOT be without them.
Tinker

 

[Tinker]

PS to my previous post:
I have just put to use my OF 1400 for the very first time.  I was making T&G joints and found the opening in the DC extension was too small for the bit to pass thru. My friend, Bob Marino pointed out that the top of the piece has a collar that can move aside for adding after the bit has been adjusted to its cutting height.  this is fine, but sooner or later, i can see old habits taking over and I will release the height adjustment lock at the end of a cut annnnndddddd>>>> a new plastic part will be on order.  Also, even with the DC hooked up to the CT33, with the larger bit and the cutting out beyond the edge of the table, even with with the dust collector shroud under the router plate, I don't think i captured any of the router shavings.  So far, this has been my only disappointment.  However, i am used to the same sort of non dust collection problems with my WoodRat, so i am sure I will figure a way around this problem with time and experience.
Tinker

 

[bcook01]

I don't like their Canadian distributor, that is Hafele Canada.  :'(

Festool is very much a sideline with Hafele Canada and a sideline that few people there know anything about.  Also, Hafele is not used to selling the home hobbiests, just to industry.  For example, recently I asked for a price list and was told that they could not provide me with one.

They have the inventory, they just don't know what it is or what it does!  It is too bad they are not customer oriented! ??? ???

 

[Dan Clermont]

I don't like their Canadian distributor, that is Hafele Canada.  :'(

Festool is very much a sideline with Hafele Canada and a sideline that few people there know anything about.  Also, Hafele is not used to selling the home hobbiests, just to industry.  For example, recently I asked for a price list and was told that they could not provide me with one.

They have the inventory, they just don't know what it is or what it does!  It is too bad they are not customer oriented! ??? ???

Some of us on the West Coast are trying to change the "Exclusive Distributor" rights for Hafele so we can get product at a reasonable price point without having to import it from the US which is what allot of people are doing anyway. I feel sorry for those in Edmonton, Prince George and other places where they have no choice or don't have access to US shipping addresses. They truly are stuck buying tools from a distributor who couldn't care less about Festool

Cheers
Dan Clermont

 

[Dave Ronyak]

3.A while ago I bought a bunch of Festool branded jigsaw blades which included a selection of reciprocating (sawzall?) saw blades.  Great - but why do they sell these if they don't make a saw to use them in?

Two hypotheses, and no evidence to support either!

1.  Why make blades?  Maybe because they know how to design and make great blades and therefore make more money using the same equipment and processes used to make jigsaw blades

2.  Why no reciprocating saw?  None of today's reciprocating saws are designed for or traditionally used as precision tools (Tom Silva's use in carving old barn beams in the THO "L-house" project may be an exception).  Most users, myself included use these saws for rough work, mainly in construction.  If Festool decides to make a reciprocating saw, my guess is they will seek to redefine its capabilities to include much greater precision and control of the cut.   Everyone else seems to be focused on having the longest stroke and the most HP, even though I have never found my ancient 2-speed Milwaukee unit rated at ~4.5 A to lack for power.  

 

[Lou Miller]

I agree with Dave in that most people use a sawzall for rough work. Even if Festool,made a sawzall, I probably wouldn't even consider buying it. I'm sure it would be an excellent tool, but I just would never a sawzall that was precise. I hack out joists and studs with mine and that's about it. What do I care how good the cuts are?

 

[Lou Miller]

Lou,

I don't believe you will like the result of swiveling the clamps. It the anvil portion of the clamp is not aligned with the screw the clamp will twist to the side. I think we have all seen C clamps that have been overtightened to the point that the screw twists to the side and renders the clamp useless. I believe, if I understand you correctly, this will be similar to your swiveled clamp. OTOH, a clamp that could swing would be nice.

Greg

Sorry, I never got around to replying to any of these...

I'm not quite sure what the difference is between a clamp that would swivel and a clamp that swings? Probably just semantics, but I'm not understanding you correctly.

My little gripe about the clamps really isn't a big deal. I basically keep a piece of 3/4" material clamped to my rails all the time. I use it like you would a fence on a table saw. If I need to make a whole bunch of small cuts, that piece of 3/4" gets clamped into place so that I just butt the work up against the 3/4" and then cut away. No measuring needed. It would just be kind of cool to have different clamps. Another manufacturer has better clamps, but at the expense of having a much thicker rail system. Try to cut down an entry door with their system and a standard 7-1/4" saw... Doesn't work anywhere near as good as Festool's.

I guess that's a fair trade-off. I'm greedy though

 

[Lou Miller]

I only know of one thing that I don't like about Festool so far.........

The price.  ;D ;D ;D

I had a huge problem with the price before I started buying the Festool gear. I just couldn't understand why it all cost so much. It didn't take long for me to forget about the cost after using some of this stuff though.

You get what you pay for, IMO. At least with Festool, we have a manufacturer that cares about producing a quality product without needing to cut corners to be competitive. My tools are my livelihood, so I don't want stuff that has been trimmed back to make it more attractive pricewise. Give me the best tool possible and charge whatever you need to charge. That's what Festool does.

 

[Tinker]

I agree with Dave in that most people use a sawzall for rough work. Even if Festool,made a sawzall, I probably wouldn't even consider buying it. I'm sure it would be an excellent tool, but I just would never a sawzall that was precise. I hack out joists and studs with mine and that's about it. What do I care how good the cuts are?

I have an old Milwaukee Sawz-all from my mason contracting days that has withstood just about every abuse immaginable.  the threads on the lock piece that holds the blade in are about worn out.  I just throw a little lock tite on the screw and hope for the best.  It must be 40 or 50 years old and still does all it was ever meant to do.  I do not see Festool building a "rough working" tool that would stand up to the abuse that a Milwaukee sawzall is expected and does stand up to.  When I want precision, I will continue to increase my supply of Festool toys.  When i want knock around tough rough work tools, i will stick with Milwaukee.  (I'm not trying to advertize a competitive product here.  I am just trying to make a reasonable comparison of two quality tools that are quality for entirely different reasons.
Tinker

 

[greg mann]

I had a huge problem with the price before I started buying the Festool gear. I just couldn't understand why it all cost so much. It didn't take long for me to forget about the cost after using some of this stuff though.

You get what you pay for, IMO. At least with Festool, we have a manufacturer that cares about producing a quality product without needing to cut corners to be competitive. My tools are my livelihood, so I don't want stuff that has been trimmed back to make it more attractive pricewise. Give me the best tool possible and charge whatever you need to charge. That's what Festool does.

The saying should really be, "You don't always get what you pay for but you never get what you don't pay for."

 

[greg mann]

I agree with Dave in that most people use a sawzall for rough work. Even if Festool,made a sawzall, I probably wouldn't even consider buying it. I'm sure it would be an excellent tool, but I just would never a sawzall that was precise. I hack out joists and studs with mine and that's about it. What do I care how good the cuts are?

I have an old Milwaukee Sawz-all from my mason contracting days that has withstood just about every abuse immaginable.  the threads on the lock piece that holds the blade in are about worn out.  I just throw a little lock tite on the screw and hope for the best.  It must be 40 or 50 years old and still does all it was ever meant to do.  I do not see Festool building a "rough working" tool that would stand up to the abuse that a Milwaukee sawzall is expected and does stand up to.  When I want precision, I will continue to increase my supply of Festool toys.  When i want knock around tough rough work tools, i will stick with Milwaukee.  (I'm not trying to advertize a competitive product here.  I am just trying to make a reasonable comparison of two quality tools that are quality for entirely different reasons.
Tinker

You may be getting that kind of life precisely because your Sawzall is 40 years old. Where I work we use new Sawzalls to cut up scrap pallets, about 2 hours work per day, and they last 6 months at best. The failure point is not repairable, and believe me, we know how to fix things around here. We have been pondering a brand change.

Greg

 

[Lou Miller]

You may be getting that kind of life precisely because your Sawzall is 40 years old. Where I work we use new Sawzalls to cut up scrap pallets, about 2 hours work per day, and they last 6 months at best. The failure point is not repairable, and believe me, we know how to fix things around here. We have been pondering a brand change.

Greg

Okay, spill it, what brand are you using? I've got a PC that is about 12 years old. I've beat the heck out of the thing, and it shows bigtime. However, it keeps runninbg and I don't need anything better, so I plan on keeping it until it dies completely. I wouldn't mind knowing what brand is crapping out on you guys regularly. I have a hunch its PC, but ...

 

[Per Swenson]

I am with Greg on this one.

Maybe 40 years ago, not now.

I get a year to three at best.

My last PC tiger I threw off the roof with a Home Creepo credit card

duct taped to it

While yelling at the Guys, " go get another, anything but this kind!"
.

I have two Milwaukee's, a Bosch, and a Default.

Both Milks are on there last legs, the bosh is out for repair

and the default was a piece of garbage out of the box.

Next and last is gonna be a Big HILTI.

Now back to Festool.

My complaint is the MFT is made for a man of European stature.

Less hormones and antibiotics in the milk over there.

It should be raised "bout 2 1/2 mebbe 3 inchs.

Per

 

[greg mann]

You may be getting that kind of life precisely because your Sawzall is 40 years old. Where I work we use new Sawzalls to cut up scrap pallets, about 2 hours work per day, and they last 6 months at best. The failure point is not repairable, and believe me, we know how to fix things around here. We have been pondering a brand change.

Greg

Okay, spill it, what brand are you using? I've got a PC that is about 12 years old. I've beat the heck out of the thing, and it shows bigtime. However, it keeps runninbg and I don't need anything better, so I plan on keeping it until it dies completely. I wouldn't mind knowing what brand is crapping out on you guys regularly. I have a hunch its PC, but ...

Milwaukee. I thought I covered that by calling it a Sawzall but that is pretty much a generic term these days.

 

[mstens]

It should be raised "bout 2 1/2 mebbe 3 inchs.

Everything should be raised about 3 inches.

 

[greg mann]

I've posted in this thread quite a bit but I don't believe I have yet answered the question asked. What don't I like about Festool? Give me a week and I might think of something. Seriously, we should be careful how we phrase our resonses. I am not saying we shouldn't be critical when useful, but I will give you an example of how these things get blown out of proportion. I visited a certain manufacturer's forum yesterday, a place I almost never go, and what was the comment I read? How the guys over on FOG were having trouble with warpage in their MFTs! Another opportunity to jump all over Festool and we created it for them.

This is a useful exercise but let's be careful about giving Festool an undeserved black eye or giving their 'competition' cannon fodder over trivial matters. We wouldn't be here if we didn't have some positive passion for Festool's products. OTOH, comments about poor representation of their product in Canada, for example, is a very valid issue and certainly not trivial. That is useful and actionable information for Festool.

Greg