What Else To Buy with the Tools? So much to choose from...

[Burchie]

After lurking here for awhile and reading all the great info, you've convinced me and I've decided to take the Festool plunge.  I'm a finish carpenter (primarily trim, cabinetry, & doors), work alone, have no shop, and therefore do almost all my work at client's homes, so I need to be mobile.

Here are the tools I plan to get (before the price increase!):

Circular saw: TS55EQ (I no longer will dread breaking down 4x8x3/4 sheets by myself...)
Domino: DF500Q
Sander: Rotex RO125FEQ
Dust Extractor: CT22E  (perhaps the CT MIDI?...)
Table: Perhaps an MFT...not sure.

Besides the 118" guide rail for the saw, what accessories & spare parts should I get to go with each tool? (Pretend you are going shopping on my dime.)  So many accessories, so little knowledge about what are the "must haves."  Thanks in advance!!

 

[Brice Burrell]

  I think you'll want clamps and rail connectors for the guide rails , an extra blade or two for the saw (so you'll always have a sharp one), tenons for the Domino, sandpaper for the sander. If you go with the CT22, I really like the hose garage plus extra filter bags. Believe me that is the small list.

 

[Burchie]

  Believe me that is the small list.

Thanks, Brice!

I want the big list...remember...you are Festool shopping with my money.  ;D

 

[Eli]

Well in that case you should also get a boom arm, the LR32 rail, a trion and guide plate, circle cutter for same. OF1010 and OF1400. MFS400 and MFS700, with a 1 metre set of rails. Two MFT1080's. That's the medium list.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I like the .quick clamps, they cost more, but I think they are worth the extra money. A shorter rail too, 32" rail. Guide rail connectors, you'll need two to join rails. A pack of splinterguards and a cover plate. Like I said extra blades take a good look at what Festool offers and decide what you need.

Again take a good look at Festools sandpaper, its very high quality stuff, get a lot of it. I happen to like both the trim stop and cross stop for the Domino, I'd buy them too and the Systainer with the tenons and cutters.

Besides main filter, filter bags and hose garage, I'd look closely at the handle and the boom arm for the CT22.

 The MFT is a great tool (see Ned I called it a tool  ) if you can get to a place to look at one in person and see if it is something you think you are will to take to the jobsite. It is a bit of a hassle to transport the 1080 but you'll love having it onsite.

Once you get your hands on these things you will want more, routers, another sander, a drill........

 

[Dan Lyke]

Definitely the Quick Clamps, they slide in the groove in the back of the rail and let you clamp the rail to the workpiece. I haven't used the standard  screw clamps, I just went for the more expensive ones and haven't been disappointed, on or off the rail or table.

If you get the MFT table, the Clamping Elements come in handy, and I've got 4 of the Quick Clamps so that I can hold a piece to the side of the table and hold the an MFS jig over the edge of the table to cut tenons on the end of a piece.

Speaking of which, the MFS is also handier than I thought it'd be, and if you're spending money anyway. On the other hand, I don't see a router on your list, and most of what I use it for without a router is just as a big square on the MFT table (like as a fence under the rail on the table for ripping short lengths of thin stock).

Either the joiners and another short rail (saw + table should give you two rails) or a long enough rail to knock down those sheet goods in one pass.

We got the vacuum parts with our CT22 and have found 'em useful.

 

[Ned]

[I think I'm going to put this post on a macro key...]

You'll be interested in this thread:  Never buy the same size rail.

If you're in the shop all the time and cutting a lot of sheet goods, it would be hard to beat having a single long rail for the full-sheet-lengthwise cuts.

If you're cutting sheet goods, want to buy only one more rail, and want the most versatile one, I would add the 1900 to the 1400 you'll get with the saw.  In fact, I did.

You'll need two connectors to join the rails.  The lever action quick clamps, while expensive, will be the first ones you grab if you have them.

Ned

 

[Mirko]

After lurking here for awhile and reading all the great info, you've convinced me and I've decided to take the Festool plunge.  I'm a finish carpenter (primarily trim, cabinetry, & doors), work alone, have no shop, and therefore do almost all my work at client's homes, so I need to be mobile.

Here are the tools I plan to get (before the price increase!):

Circular saw: TS55EQ (I no longer will dread breaking down 4x8x3/4 sheets by myself...)
Domino: DF500Q
Sander: Rotex RO125FEQ
Dust Extractor: CT22E  (perhaps the CT MIDI?...)
Table: Perhaps an MFT...not sure.
Besides the 118" guide rail for the saw, what accessories & spare parts should I get to go with each tool? (Pretend you are going shopping on my dime.)   So many accessories, so little knowledge about what are the "must haves."  Thanks in advance!!

Burchie,
IMO If your cutting 4'x8' sheet goods on job sites, the 106" rail will be more than practical, furthermore the longer rails are a pain to transport.
It may be a good idea to pick up the 32" rail, at 55 bucks you cant go wrong. You can use it for cross cutting, Like beveling the ends of a sill perhaps.
32" 42" 55" 106" is all you need. The 32 and 42, if joined make a very handy 6'+ rail, much better than using a 9' rail on a 5' cut.
You can't go wrong with any one tools or accessories, good luck.

Mirko

 

[Mirko]

oh one more thing, buy the handle for the vac before the price jump, it makes maneuvering the vac around very easy. You will thank me the fist time you have to roll over cords, or even descend a set of stairs on the job site.

Mirko

 

[Burchie]

Burchie,
IMO If your cutting 4'x8' sheet goods on job sites, the 106" rail will be more than practical, furthermore the longer rails are a pain to transport.

Mirko

I thought I read somewhere that you have to plunge with the 106" rail but not with the 118"?  I have a new Sprinter van with 10' length inside, so the extra rail length shouldn't be an issue to transport.  I guess what I'm asking is this: "Is the 118" rail better for 8' rips than the 106" rail?"

 

[Mirko]

Burchie,
I actualy was going to say earlier that the 118" was a pain to transport... unless you own a sprinter, so yes go for the 118.
For your information, I use the 106" with the TS75 saw, considering that the base of the 75 is longer than the 55 you plan to buy, I do not have a problem with it. Its ok to plunge.

Mirko

 

[Mirko]

Burchie,
IMO If your cutting 4'x8' sheet goods on job sites, the 106" rail will be more than practical, furthermore the longer rails are a pain to transport.

Mirko

I guess what I'm asking is this: "Is the 118" rail better for 8' rips than the 106" rail?"

I say yes, but it isn't worth losing the convenience of transporting, I'm not just talking about TO the job site, for example you are going to find the system to have great dust efficiency, therefore you will like to cut and set up right where your working in a customers house, so you would want to keep the guide rails as shot as possible.

Mirko

 

[Dan Clark]

Burchie,

You got some excellent information already, so I can only think of a few things to add:

First, besides looking around the site, you should check the "Tool Reviews" section:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?board=19.0.  It has a lot of great information on the tools and may help fine tune your list.   

Second, my Boom Arm review covers several issues which may affect your decision to get  it:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=324.0.  You'll want to measure the height of your truck or trailer to ensure that you have enough height to transport your CT with Boom Arm.  After disconnecting the top portion of the Boom Arm, the CT measures 1365mm tall (53-3/4").

Third, if you get the Boom Arm, get the Schlauchhalter (hose holder).  It's the curly thing holding the big hose in one of review pics. 

Fourth, Finish Carpenters are probably one of the biggest groups of Festool users - for exactly the same reasons you mentioned.    You might want to check out (and join) the JLC Online Finish Carpentry forum:http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7.  Try reposting your questions over there too.  I think you'll find many their opinions will be the same as what you get here, but you get some differences too. 

Fifth, check out a couple of great websites that include Finish Carpentry and Festool information: 

The first is Brice's website:http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/.  Specifically, check Power Tools:http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/gpage.html and Accessories:http://www.burrellcustomcarpentry.com/gpage34.html. 

The second is Gary Katz's website:http://www.garymkatz.com/.  Look under the "Tips and Techniques" menu.  If you're not aware of him, Gary is an excellent resource for Finish Carpentry info, reviews, and education.    He's also the moderator for the JLC Finish Carpentry forum.  Great guy.   

Finally, the MFT is great tool (I love mine), but some Finish Carpenters question whether it is too heavy to carry around to job sites and whether it is best configuration for specific needs (like hanging doors).  Gary's website includes two designs for cutting and assembly tables that may give you some ideas.  Also, here's a FOG thread about a Portable Cutting Table:http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=159.0.  Check out Pete's portable cutting/assembly table at the end of the thread.  (Pete is a Finish Carpenter in the UK.)

Good luck with your decisions.

Dan.

 

[greg mann]

Burchie,

Dan may be the best at this but you have probably already noticed the extent to which folks on this forum will dig up other threads and point you towards the postings of other members. In other words, they will share their own experiences but also go to great lengths to see that you are exposed to other people's experiences. If you haven't done it already go to the Festool website and check out the Tips and Hints. See and how the tools are used by folks like Jerry Work. This will help you determine what might fit into your way of working, and maybe more importantly, how you can use Festools to change and improve your ways.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

          Between the 106 and 118 rails I would (and did) get the 118. I used to have the 106. I found that it was long enough to do 8' cuts without plunging the 55 saw. But just. The advantage to the 118 is that you don't have to as careful getting the overhang length right on each end for the 8' cut. In other words you can set to your cut line a little bit quicker.  It is however perfectly O.K to plunge to start the cut. I know that there is someone on here that mentioned using the 95" rail to make 8" cut. But that gets tricky with part of the saw base off the end of the rail.  I like the extra length of the 118 it just seems to make everything a bit easier, especially if you wind up preferring not to plunge at  the start of a cut.  Also the 118 has an advantage that doesn't come up often in posts- the nearly 10" length is nice when straight line ripping rough  length boards. Which are often up to 6" longer than the 8' finished length. 
        If you can transport and store the 118 then go for it.  As Mirko said it could be troublesome to maneuver inside a house, but maybe not much worse than the 106. Also if you end up getting an additional mid length rail  then you would have the best of all worlds.

Seth

 

[Dan Clark]

Burchie,

Dan may be the best at this but you have probably already noticed the extent to which folks on this forum will dig up other threads and point you towards the postings of other members. In other words, they will share their own experiences but also go to great lengths to see that you are exposed to other people's experiences. If you haven't done it already go to the Festool website and check out the Tips and Hints. See and how the tools are used by folks like Jerry Work. This will help you determine what might fit into your way of working, and maybe more importantly, how you can use Festools to change and improve your ways.

Greg,

I don't think too many people would agree that I'm the "best", but maybe I'm a bit more driven than most people.  What bugs me sometimes is the declarative statements from the media and some people about how a product or service is unequivocally "the best".  The media do it because they are paid.  Some people do it because it they are trying to justify why they purchased what they did.

I believe that bright people (the vast majority of people here) know that almost nothing is ever "best" for everyone.  I.e., you have to tease out a solution's subtle details and see if it works for you.  It's a weighing and balancing game based on multiple points of view and sources of information.  Most of the time, one or a few options seem a little better than others. 

As a simple example, on the JLC Finish Carpentry forum, there is an active discussion on, "Pen Pencils and scribes what are you using?"  Out of curiosity, I cruised through and gave my own opinion about a scribing product that I own but don't like (it won't stay locked).  One fellow pointed out that a wing nut will take care of the problem.  I bought one Thursday night and it works pretty well.  Problem solved.

In the same thread, they were discussing marking pencils.  Many options presented.  I've been reasonably happy with 2B wood pencils, except that they break all the time and need sharpening.  One fellow mentioned that he wrote that he uses a Staedtler drafting lead holder with harder HB and 2H lead:http://www.staedtler-usa.com/Mars_technico_780_C_us.Staedtler?ActiveID=24132.  It uses a big thick lead that holds a nice sharp point and last a long time, it's just the right size for me, and the pencil is pretty much unbreakable.  Since all you are sharpening is the lead, you don't have shaving all over.  I thought, "Hmmm...  Maybe..."  So I bought one yesterday.  Whoa!  I found nirvana!

See?  Two people gave me options that I had not considered.  I'm happy with my I'm happy with my new solutions.  Other people are happy with their current methods.  Multiple good solutions for multiple people.   

So why do I do this?  It makes me feel good to help others.  It sounds Pollyanna, but that's pretty much the truth.  Others have helped me.  I enjoy doing the same.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s. here are two of the little things that make me happy:
[attachthumb=#]

 

[greg mann]

Dan, your advice is always well-reasoned on its own but you go the extra length to explain how you came to your opinions. But, what I really meant to say was that you are probably the best at pointing out other peoples opinions and where to find them. 

 

[Markus K.]

Why you don't buy the Rotex RO150FEQ? It has a 45% bigger Sandingpad than the RO125. That makes you quicker.
Maybe you could need the 400 DTS for sanding corners.

 

[Burchie]

Wow! Thanks for all the great advice, guys. I'm going to compile my Festool shopping list based on all the input and post it later...

 

[Burchie]

OK, so it only took me 21 months to finally get off the fence and take the Festool plunge.  After an impressive presentation by Larry Smith of Festool at the Katz Roadshow in Evanston, IL, I was convinced and went out the next day and started the spending insanity.  I appreciate all the advice here and it definitely helped with my purchases:

TS 55 EQ saw
DF 500 domino
ETS 150/3 sander
CT 36 E extractor
1400 EQ router with parallel guide
FS 32 Sys
32",55", 118" rails
Guide rail accessory kit
(2) MFT/3
(4) quick clamps and other odds and ends....

I don't even want to add up what my total investment is (so far), but after using the saw, domino, and router on an oak wainscot project for a billiards room, I know it's worth it.  Festool has brought the joy back to woodworking and I actually look forward to using the tools!