What finish would be best for wood veneered bathroom cabinets

[Peter Fish]

I am currently making four cabinets for my shower room using MRMDF wood veneered in American Black Walnut and English Sycamore
I have managed to veneer all 28 pieces and am now having fun with the Domino and LR32 but my real worry is the best finish to use in a shower room !!
I am hoping to get a waterproof / sealed finish of course and am thinking shellac, oil varnish, wax, Surfix or Osmo oil.

Help needed please let me know your thoughts or experiences

Regards
Peter

   

 

[roblg3]

The best most durable uv stabilized finish I've been able to find is Kem-Aqua Plus.  It's special order from sherwin williams and is available in no smaller than 5 gal.  If you have moisture concerns you can use something like west systems epoxy or system 3 mirror coat.  Otherwise, any polyurethane will be good.  A poly crylic is non-yellowing as is the kemaqua.  but that's a visual choice.  If you really want to, a spars urethane is a good choice because it's readily available at big box stores and some is uv stabilized to reduce fading from sun light.  I hope i didn't go overboard

 

[tjbnwi]

KA +.

Tom

 

[polarsea1]

The best most durable uv stabilized finish I've been able to find is Kem-Aqua Plus.  It's special order from sherwin williams and is available in no smaller than 5 gal.  If you have moisture concerns you can use something like west systems epoxy or system 3 mirror coat.  Otherwise, any polyurethane will be good.  A poly crylic is non-yellowing as is the kemaqua.  but that's a visual choice.  If you really want to, a spars urethane is a good choice because it's readily available at big box stores and some is uv stabilized to reduce fading from sun light.  I hope i didn't go overboard

My local Sherwin Williams stocks KA and they sell by the gallon - they do add a pour charge.

 

[tiralie]

My local Sherwin Williams stocks KA and they sell by the gallon - they do add a pour charge.

Not sure if you caught it, but the gentlemen in the quotes above are referring to KA+(Plus) which is only available in 5 gallon sizes. Not sure why you would need a UV stabilized coating in the bathroom.

Seems to me that a conversion varnish such as General (urethane vs. a polyurethane) would be a good choice as well. If you are brushing on use a polyurethane.
Tim

 

[tjbnwi]

Tim, a few dealers are approved by SW to pour off KA or KA+ into single gallons and relabel them. One of the 2 approved dealers in the Chicagoland area is about 15 miles north of me. I know there are a few dealers that stock singles poured off by this dealer. Strange part is we're both in Indiana.

It's just not the UV, with KA + you don't need the base sealer and you can use the surfacer if you need it.

Tom

 

[tiralie]

Tim, a few dealers are approved by SW to pour off KA or KA+ into single gallons and relabel them. One of the 2 approved dealers in the Chicagoland area is about 15 miles north of me. I know there are a few dealers that stock singles poured off by this dealer. Strange part is we're both in Indiana.

It's just not the UV, with KA + you don't need the base sealer and you can use the surfacer if you need it.

Tom

Thanks Tom, I am going to use this info to twist my local SW's arm into maybe supplying me with some gallons. I spend enough money over there...but probably not as much as some.
Tim

 

[Peter Fish]

Gentlemen thank you all very much for your input, sadly I am over the pond and those products are NAIUK !!

Having read more articles I think shellac followed by oil or wax may be a good finish on both the Walnut and Sycamore

Thanks again
Peter

 

[GarryMartin]

Let me know how you get on, and post some pictures! I should get around to building an under-sink drawer unit and tall cupboard in American Black Walnut veneered MDF soon. Not veneering myself though; will send a cutting list to http://cutlist.co.uk/ and let them sort it all out and edge it for me.  [wink]

I have the hardware for the test builds to see what will work best, but they'll just be standard MDF.

I was thinking Osmo Polyx as a finish? http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil

 

[sancho57]

Check out general finishes Enduro .GF also has other great finishes that may fit your need.

They have a UK distributor

www.generalfinishes.co.uk

Good stuff

 

[VW mick]

I'm making a new entrance door and have been using MORRELLS OMNIA as recommended by our on site polisher

It has a base coat/preservative which gives the colour then a topcoat .ive given everything 2coats so far I will let you know how I get on

 

[roblg3]

Simply my opinion, shellaks soluability to alcohol (something included in lots of cleaning products, and COSMETICS) is something i would worry about especially in a bathroom.  enduro var IS a very good conversion varnish I have used it.  It's an ambering product like most urethanes.  It is much more expensive then KA+ but, it's available in the uk. so...

 

[jimbouk]

Also dont wax over the top as it will react with water and look terrible in a matter of weeks. Give morells a call and they will sort you out. Either a waterbased or pu laquer will do well.

 

[Peter Fish]

Well thanks for all the confusion !! I have now read so many blogs etc that I am more confused !!
I had thought to use Osmo Poly X but wondered about its water resistance then found they make Osmo wood protector for use in kitchen and bathrooms, sorted  ? Not sure !!
So anyway I am still working on all the Domino joints having finished with the LR32, this was my first attempt with both machines having only used the Domino on some Domi drawers which doesn't require to much effort.
The veneer thickness makes a difference which proved a bit of a challenge but hopefully will all go together properly.

Garry
I bought an Airpress Pro set up and what a lot of fun that can be !! So if you want to spend a few hours at a bagpress let me know.
I spent hours at Capital Crispin in search of some interesting veneers ( boy have they got some stock) but after 3 hours my head was spinning so gave up and fought my way home on the M25.I then returned a week or so later, and went with the Walnut / Sycamore
I edged the core with solid Walnut and veneered both sides.  Not easy at all, so your decision to go with "cutlist" will ease your process I hope.   
Enjoy your weekend in the workshop unless you are out Morris dancing around a Maypole
Have fun

Peter

 

[Holmz]

...
If you have moisture concerns you can use something like west systems epoxy or system 3 mirror coat.
...

Back when I was doing composites the West Systems required a UV top coat.
But I think the heat lamps in the bathrooms are IR.

 

[GarryMartin]

I had thought to use Osmo Poly X but wondered about its water resistance...

Why were you worried about its water resistance? You have me worried now!

[attachimg=1]

 

[Tinker]

Many moons ago, i got a good deal on some solid ash paneling and used it in bathroom and kitchen.  I think the finish was water based and it seemed to have stood the test of time quite well. Four years ago, we redid our bathroom and I reused the ash paneling along with Walnut trim.  cabinet doors were ash paneling with walnut frames; and drawers and face frames were all ash.  I had asked the painter what the old ash paneling had been finished with and he told me it had been water based. He did everything with water based finish. 

I am satisfied with the job except where we hang our bath towels.  Where I hang my towel, the finish is deteriorating down to bare wood.  My question: Is it common with water based finishes that they are more affected by wetness than oil based finishes?
Tinker

 

[tiralie]

My question: Is it common with water based finishes that they are more affected by wetness than oil based finishes?

In my opinion it depends. Water bourne finishes for interior and exterior finishing are getting better and better. The wrong finish for the conditions, or incorrect application is a higher probability in terms of failure than base.
The combination of high humidity prevalent in bathrooms and the friction from the towel are as much a problem as the type of finish that was applied.
Tim

 

[Tinker]

My question: Is it common with water based finishes that they are more affected by wetness than oil based finishes?

In my opinion it depends. Water bourne finishes for interior and exterior finishing are getting better and better. The wrong finish for the conditions, or incorrect application is a higher probability in terms of failure than base.
The combination of high humidity prevalent in bathrooms and the friction from the towel are as much a problem as the type of finish that was applied.
Tim

Thanks Tim, That is sort what i thought, but not knowing much about finishes, i had to ask.
Tinker