What is your process for scribing tall baseboard over long run of hardwood?

[Grasshopper]

I'm laying down a "scarf-jointed" 18' section of one-piece 7 1/4" baseboard and can see put to a 1/4" gap over the run.

shoe moulding isn't an option, and the base is too inflexible to bend over the humps…so I have to scribe.

What is your process for scribing tall base?

I was reading that one approach is to find the "high spot" in the floor and runs some temporary shims over low spots till the base is level (which would exaggerate the gaps temporarily).  Shoot a couple pin nails with the level base, and use compass or accuscribe (set to the largest gap which will translate throughout the board).  I'd then use the carvex at a slight bevel towards the back to get close to the line and the RO90 to finish up.

Am I missing something.  How do you approach scribing base to the floor?  Thanks in advance.

 

[Holmz]

A pencil, and either resting on my finger or a magazine or book..
A 1/4" would imply a magazine which also slides well on the floor.
Ig it rocks the stuff something under the rocking corner(s).

Go end to end with the pencil
Pull it out.
jig saw it.
Whack it into place.
Do the vertical corners if needed.
Sometimes a chamfer on the front edge (1-2 mm) makes it look better, but one really needs to focus on it to see any slight gaps.

 

[wrightwoodwork]

My method of doing scribes is to get 3 blocks of wood say 25mm  then at the ends of the piece to be scribed sit a block at each end. Then using the 3rd block give a quick check that there is no low dips. If all looks OK then mark out. If there is a dip measure the distance from the top of the block to the bottom of the skirting then add that onto the 2 outside blocks , then mark out using the 3rd block 

 

[ear3]

Have you seen the thingamajig?

http://thingamejigtools.com/

 

[mwildt]

Or this one

https://www.festoolproducts.com/Simple-Scribe-p/simple-scribe.htm

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for all the advice so far.  I actually own the Fastcap Accuscribe tool (which I've never used).

The main question I had was securing the long run of base initially and where to register the accuscribe (I assume I'd set it to the deepest dip).  I suppose having never scribed baseboard before, I'm looking for the "101" course on the best way to go about doing it.

A concern I have is if I do it wrong, I'd scribe the correct contours and have the bottom appear flush but the base would be out of level or something.  In other words, do you shim up the base until it is level, then scribe to the widest gap setting?  If so, how do you keep the base upright and level while you run the scribe line.

I am also concerned if there is a high spot near an outside corner and how to get the mating mitered piece to match up even though it runs 90 degrees on a flat section.

I may be overthinking it…it just isn't clicking in my head for some reason. 

 

[bkharman]

No offense, but unless the dip is massive on the hardwood floor, I would not scribe the baseboard. I think it might look shoddy. If it is a fairly big gap and all over the place, look into some sort of more flexible shoe molding connected to the baseboard.

I know you said shoe is not an option... So maybe send us a pic or two of the floor to help think it out with you.

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[w802h]

I always scribe base.  I think it looks a lot better tight to the floor than an extra molding to conceal a gap.  Different strategies are necessary depending on the demands on the final product.  If the base needs to be level, a certain height, etc. that demands more care and planning.  I'm finishing up a remodel where the exterior walls are very true, but there's a lot of sag to interior walls.  You may want to look at the whole room to make sure you don't need to take more than a 1/4" off the board somewhere else.  Depending on what you use for material, you are using a particular board - jointed straight or not - for a particular location, be it straight or not.  Sometimes there's a quick fix or a closer answer just swapping the board for another.  Hope that helps. 

 

[Holmz]

I always scribe base.  I think it looks a lot better tight to the floor than an extra molding to conceal a gap.  Different strategies are necessary depending on the demands on the final product.  If the base needs to be level, a certain height, etc. that demands more care and planning.  I'm finishing up a remodel where the exterior walls are very true, but there's a lot of sag to interior walls.  You may want to look at the whole room to make sure you don't need to take more than a 1/4" off the board somewhere else.  Depending on what you use for material, you are using a particular board - jointed straight or not - for a particular location, be it straight or not.  Sometimes there's a quick fix or a closer answer just swapping the board for another.  Hope that helps.

^That^ is the only real issue...

A single board is almost too easy, and it looks nice with a tight joint.
Once you get one done, then #2, and #3 and find #4 needs more off one can then end up chin scratching... Or if there are corner pieces and it all need to end up aligning.

If all the walls are high in the middle it is easy.
So it is when it is low in the middle and the boards need have more taken off at the ends is where one gets into needing to plan ahead. Otherwise you just hold it in place and scribe.

It seems easier to take off material the whole length of the board if the jig saw blade is flexi, or need to plane/sand any entry/exit jiggles. But once the gap is under 1/16" it looks good, and sometimes a 1/32 chamfer can appear nicer then the occasional visual gap from zero.

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks all. I scribed my base yesterday thanks to your cumulative advice.

It was more time consuming than I had planned. Getting the corner piece and the scarf joint to line up was the real bear 

 

[wrightwoodwork]

At least you got thier in the end

 

[mastercabman]

I guess some people like to make it hard on themselves
That's what shoe moulding is for!!!!!!!:

 

[Grasshopper]

I agree. It's tough at this stage, when all the casings/plinth blocks are freshly installed.

Had I planned on shoe moldings, I'd have gone with thicker plinth. The reveal is just right, but shoe moldings would set proud of the plinth.

End the end, I do prefer the look without shoe molding, so I guess I'll bang my head against a wall on a few sections where scribing is needed for the desired result.

I guess some people like to make it hard on themselves
That's what shoe moulding is for!!!!!!!: