What makes an MFT Top so good?

donwon

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Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
153
So I have owned a TS 55 saw and love it!  As I learn more about Festool, I want to start buying more of the tools .. sanders, routers, etc.

I keep coming across postings about making the MFT top.  I am thinking of making a table that would be good for ripping sheet goods and was thinking hey should I make up an MFT top to go on top?  So far I see that it would be good for clamping parts for sanding, routing, etc. 

My question here is, why is this top so good and what can I do with it .. any suggestions for things the top should have?  Please do not slay me for my ignorance but just trying to get more understanding.
 
The grid is so useful and get at least 4 of the QWAS dogs to go with it.

I highly recommend purchasing the MFT/3 kit and building a cabinet for it to sit on (with the legs folded of course). Still gives the option of being portable when needed. My MFT/3 is used in the shop only. It is set perfectly for 90 degree cuts. I get absolutely no out of square measurements on large panels. Much easier to use than my cabinet saw for that. More accurate than my table saw for large panels too. I still take stuff to the table saw for rips. Miter cuts for panels on the MFT and narrow stock mostly on the table saw.

Another benefit to the MFT/3 is the aluminum channel surrounding the table. I use the t-slots all the time for clamping stuff vertically. The smaller your shop is, the more useful this table becomes. Sure you can build your own with either a home made grid top or a Festool replacement top with the CNC drilled holes but do consider the full Festool package. It is pricey but oh so useful. I waited many years not seeing the value and finally caved in and ordered it. Money very well spent for me.
 
If you are thinking about putting a top on the top ..... remember that you need space in between the tops to put clamps through the holes.

Seth
 
The grid system of holes is great for clamping anywhere on the surface and the use of bench dogs. As far as I can see, and i could very well be wrong, the only advantage to using 20mm holes is so you can use festool clamping elements. Lee Valley sells a larger variety of dog hole based clamping systems but they are meant for 3/4" holes. It can be a bit of a pain, at least it was for me, Surface to find an appropriate bit to drill or route out 20mm holes up here in sunny Canada though I managed to pull it off. I think for me,  next time I'll go 3/4" just for the purpose of easier repeatability and the seemingly more flexible Lee Valley system. I've heard others say the Lee Valley clamps are more of a pain to muck with and they could be right I just feel that there's more options with them.
To each their own I suppose, just something to consider.
For ideas and reference to building your own custom top you should refer to Guido hens table, recently posted on this forum.
 
The MFT top is particularly useful because the grid is very precise. Makes it very simple to get accurate, repeatable, fast, square cuts. If you do it yourself, you need to be honest about your ability to layout and bore the grid w/ CNC accuracy. "Close" defeats the purpose of accurate, repeatable and fast.

Some folks may be offended by the next and should perhaps cover their eyes.

In the US at least a replacement top is $150. If that seems like too much money, why are you buying Festool?
 
I think that the MFT is well worth the price.  However, as someone who uses Qwas dogs almost exclusively to align the rail, I am wondering whether the MFT 1080 (the prior MFT model)  would have been a better choice than the current MFT/3.  Consider:

1.  Cheaper than MFT/3 (assuming you can find "new-old stock")

2.  Better miter gauge on MFT/3 is largely moot if you are using Qwas dogs or equivalent (unless you often need to cut odd angles)

3.  Larger surface area on MFT 1080

4.  Despite the larger surface, replacement tops are way cheaper for MFT 1080 ($115 vs. $165)...don't know the logic behind it, but it's the reality.

5.  Speaking of the miter gauge, I've noticed that the one on the MFT/3 doesn't lay flat on the tabletop when you tighten both of the knobs...the gauge raises off the table a small but noticeable amount.  (I thought maybe mine was defective but noticed this at two different dealers).  Don't think it really matters for squaring the fence -- otherwise no one would buy it -- but it bugs me a little.  Maybe I'm doing something wrong.  Plus, there's not a lot I can do with the v-channel -- I would likely get the standalone CMS, not the attachment, and I think I'd rather have the t-track like on the MFT 1080.

Overall, I am still VERY happy with my MFT/3...just giving my 0.02.
 
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