What wood glue?

Woodchippie

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
171
I was interested to find out, what woodworkers use for wood glue generally. I have used general purpose PVA for many years.

What brands do you recommend I try?
 
Titebond 3 for almost everything.  The exception is anything structural, or when jointing boards to make a table top, when I use Cascamite. 

I've been told by a cabinetmaker for whom I have the greatest respect that if you put a heavy weight (an old TV, for example) on a table top that is glued with PVA or polyurethane, over time you can feel a small step where the joint has moved.

Andrew
 
I use Titebond III for almost everything nowadays.  I agree that "yellow glue" will creep under load but for table tops I use Domino tenons for alignment and to help with creep.  I have used Titebond II Extend for large multiple joint assemblies when I need that extra time and I use West Marine Epoxy for some oily wood joints.

Jack
 
All I've ever needed is titebond 2.  Exterior I'm trying the 3.  Its about %33 more, and 2 is water resistant once dry anyway and I've not had an issue even using 2 outside.  There have been complaints about 3 leaving dark staining on the joints, but I haven't had that problem either
 
Lee Valley Cabinet Makers glue (PVA). Probably not available in the UK without some pricey shipping cost though.

Titebond III for exterior.

The Cascamite looks useful is there a brand of that in the USA?

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
The Cascamite looks useful is there a brand of that in the USA?

I believe the closest match in the US is Unibond 800...
Tim
 
Original Titebond for most things (it's cheaper than III).
Titebond 3 if I need a longer assembly time.
Lepage white glue for veneer work.
Titebond Liquid Hide Glue for lightweight stuff.
 
Titebond III for everything except very oily woods. For oily woods, naphtha then 2-part epoxy. Never Gorilla glue!
 
Understanding the manufacturing date may be of interest:

How Do I Read The Lot Numbers?
Our current lot numbering system is a 10 digit code. The format is: aymmddbat#. The "a" stands for Made in the U.S.A. The "y" is the last digit of the year of manufacture. Digits "mm" represent the month, and "dd" represent the day of the month. The final four digits represent the batch number used for quality control purposes. Therefore, a product with the lot number A104270023 was manufactured on April 27, 2011
http://www.titebond.com/frequently_asked_questions.aspx

Good thread.  [smile]
 
Birdhunter said:
Titebond III for everything except very oily woods. For oily woods, naphtha then 2-part epoxy. Never Gorilla glue!

Titebond III has worked for me on oily woods (Rosewood, Teak, Ipe, etc).  I wipe the surface with acetone prior to glue up and have had no problems.

Jack
 
waho6o9 said:
Understanding the manufacturing date may be of interest:

How Do I Read The Lot Numbers?
Our current lot numbering system is a 10 digit code. The format is: aymmddbat#. The "a" stands for Made in the U.S.A. The "y" is the last digit of the year of manufacture. Digits "mm" represent the month, and "dd" represent the day of the month. The final four digits represent the batch number used for quality control purposes. Therefore, a product with the lot number A104270023 was manufactured on April 27, 2011
http://www.titebond.com/frequently_asked_questions.aspx

Good thread.  [smile]

Thank you for the code information, I find that very useful.

Jack
 
DougG said:
Hide glue or Titebond III

Hide glue if you want to disassemble it someday, Titebond III for a more permanent assembly solution.

Jack
 
Back
Top