What wood glue?

titebond II is just as strong as TBIII.  Just not for exterior. and about 2/3 the price.
 
The difference between TBII and TBIII is II is  water resistant and III is water proof
 
Titebond III because I live in the desert where anything liquid dries quickly, and it has a longer open time than I or II.  For me, there's not that much difference in price to deal with the hassle of drying too fast, especially in complicated glue-ups.

Steve
 
I've tried many Titebond products over the years and been disappointed with too many of them, now don't use at all. For most general glue ups LV Cabinetmakers glue. For exterior or oily wood 2 part epoxy. I also use epoxy where I need an extended glue up time. For anything that needs to be stable with no flex or creep like veneers, Unibond 800. For gluing with a surface finish, lacquer/melamine, I use Kleiberit 308.

John
 
I use tite bond original-II-III and sometimes gorilla glue clear.

I tried the hot glue gun for some trim and it didn't work for me.

A trick that I learned last year doing an aged white or antique white kitchen, was to use a heat gun on the matching color stick (sometimes comes in a kit with new cabs) and almost liquefy the tip and dab on the nail hole or crack. Then carefully wave the heat gun past the spot a few times and the wax color will suck right into the hole and basically disappear.  Takes a couple times to get use to the amount. Saves on wiping with a rag to blend in. I also use this technique on wood cabs and will blend several sticks to match the stain.
 
junk said:
For gluing with a surface finish, lacquer/melamine, I use Kleiberit 308.

How's the self life of that Kleiberit. I have some but every time I use it I wonder if I should get a new one.
Tim
 
Titebond 2/ cascamite  here, in fact i often take my own onto site as the supplied pva is often the cheapest of cheap glue they can find.  [sad]
 
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