whats the best way to cut 90 degree cuts with the guide rail system and ts ?

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Jun 11, 2015
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is there any fool proof set ups maybe home made that are perfect for repeat 90 degree cuts im cutting a lot of squares for cab's that need to be perfectly square
 
Get a big woodworking square or triangle. 

1.  Rip an edge off the plywood.
2.  Rip the widths you need from a sheet.
3.  Mark the cuts with the square/triangle
4.  Place track on that line
5.  Make the cut.

Hope this helps

Ken
 
no mft and dont want to fork out for all the extra guides yet really, are they really worth having ? i have had good success with measuring and marking but just wanted to speed up the process and maybe attach some sort of square to the rail ?
 
I use my Woodpeckers framing square extensively. It is especially valuable when cutting at right angles. The Home Depot quality framing squares are seldom truly square and can mess up valuable wood.

I set the Woodpeckers framing square and the TS55 track on the cut line and commence cutting. I get a perfect 90 degrees cut every time.
 
sucker 4 tools said:
no mft and dont want to fork out for all the extra guides yet really, are they really worth having ? i have had good success with measuring and marking but just wanted to speed up the process and maybe attach some sort of square to the rail ?

If you have room for a sheet of MDF, then with 4 holes you can have success.
That piece of material may need to be bigger than 1220 if you are doing cross cuts a 4' wide sheet.

Use 2 holes with the 1/4-20 Dogs attached to a rail for the cross cut, and 2 dog holes in the >4' wide side.
Slide the rail onto that.

On the remaining 8' side, you can have 2 dog holes to register against the long edge.
One could also use a strip of wood on that side, or piece near the cross cut and a piece or 2 at 4' and 8'.

At this point you effectively could cut all all the wood away except for a "L" shape. So you could use a 2x6 or a 6" wide piece of MDF on the 8' side and a similar piece on the 4' side. Maybe domino them together dry so you can remove them for transport.
Then you only need a piece for the hypotenuse to hold the angle at 90.
You would not need even need a rail if you indexed on the MDF.
At that point you have wooden square which breaks down.
 
thanks guys think i will look into using the rail stops/kickback stops and modify them into a kind of square the more simple the better !
 
looking at the kick back stops they seem to have another use as there is an unusual molding in the bottom of them, it seems like you could easily attache a square to one or two of them though. i dont even need the square to stay on for the cut mainly to set up the 90
 
Does anyone know how this compares to the Festool one, or the Triton one for that matter?

Since I got it a month or so ago, I've been using the 26" Woodpeckers square to set the rail on a lot of my cross cuts when I'm not working with the MFT, and found it to be invaluable.

MavDog said:
I have been using this for several years and it works great. I keep it on a 1400 rail and used my Woodpecker square to set it to 90 degrees. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWS5028-TrackSaw-Miter-Gauge/dp/B001J32KMI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1440950503&sr=8-10&keywords=dewalt+track+saw+accessories
 
sucker 4 tools said:
is there any fool proof set ups maybe home made that are perfect for repeat 90 degree cuts im cutting a lot of squares for cab's that need to be perfectly square

It may seem expensive but if you have lots of cuts to do you should seriously consider buying the MFT3. It greatly speeds up this kind of work, easy to square and even easier to guarantee repeatable cuts plus you get a great assembly table.
I now have two which have paid for themselves many times over.
I use them for cutting sheets, assembly table, sanding table, extension table for saw, router table etc.
good luck.
Scott
 
SMJoinery said:
sucker 4 tools said:
is there any fool proof set ups maybe home made that are perfect for repeat 90 degree cuts im cutting a lot of squares for cab's that need to be perfectly square

It may seem expensive but if you have lots of cuts to do you should seriously consider buying the MFT3. It greatly speeds up this kind of work, easy to square and even easier to guarantee repeatable cuts plus you get a great assembly table.
I now have two which have paid for themselves many times over.
I use them for cutting sheets, assembly table, sanding table, extension table for saw, router table etc.
good luck.
Scott

Only for pieces small enough to fit.
For a full sheet (I am not sure it needs to be cut), but it cannot be done on an MFT.
I usually use 36, 60" and do a Pythagorus along the 48"
 
First thing you can do is stack your mirrored pieces and cut them together. That way if one is out of square by a mm or less corner to corner than at least they match. By far the easiest way is to fork out the money for a home made CNC'd mft top to easily fit and cut 4' x 8' or the cheaper way is to buy the parallel guides. I have been informed but do not know from experience that the festool guides are worth all the rage. My colleagues have at one time informed me that the other rip guides are not as efficient or well built but I havenot used either. I have a very large Mft with rip dogs and precision dogs I use and make repeated square cuts perfectly every time. And I only have 2 cuts going through my MFT since my saw cuts in the same spot everytime. I also own a 4 x 8 CNC so it costs me nothing to build that table top.
 
whats the main benefits with the mft ? how do you cut square with it ? is it because it has the hinge that mounts too the rail ? and can you use the holes to align two axis for a corner ? can you buy the hinge thing seperately ?
 
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