When building cabinet carcass - how do I drill pilot holes / screw straight?

[rajun.services]

I'm a newbie and trying to learn better techniques / tips.
In this situation I have domino on either side of the carcass for the middle I'm using a 2 inch screw to keep the carcass together.
What is the best way to drill those pilot holes and screws perpendicular and not have to deal with screws popping out.
It could a simple adjustment on how I'm holding my drill?
Please suggest / help.

 

[JeremyH.]

Technique does matter. Is the space too tight? Sometimes using a longer bit holder and an off-center chuck is the answer if it's too close to a boundary.

Do you have any self centering bits? You may find it easier with them.

But also you may want to consider using something that has a clamping force to hold the pieces together, so a binding barrel and screw.

 

[rajun.services]

Technique does matter. Is the space too tight? Sometimes using a longer bit holder and an off-center chuck is the answer if it's too close to a boundary.

Do you have any self centering bits? You may find it easier with them.

But also you may want to consider using something that has a clamping force to hold the pieces together, so a binding barrel and screw.

I'm joining two 5/8 plywood sheets. Space is not an issue. Yes I do have self centering bits. But if my screw is 2 inches long. A self-centering bit is only going so much lower.
The pieces are already bound by domino and glue.

 

[DynaGlide]

Technique does matter. Is the space too tight? Sometimes using a longer bit holder and an off-center chuck is the answer if it's too close to a boundary.

Do you have any self centering bits? You may find it easier with them.

But also you may want to consider using something that has a clamping force to hold the pieces together, so a binding barrel and screw.

I'm joining two 5/8 plywood sheets. Space is not an issue. Yes I do have self centering bits. But if my screw is 2 inches long. A self-centering bit is only going so much lower.
The pieces are already bound by domino and glue.

Really the only thing you can do is glue a bubble level to your drill if it doesn't have one, or hang a plumb bob or similar. I had a few screws pop out on my office cabinets because I wasn't being careful. I re-adjusted my work height and the rest went fine.

 

[usernumber1]

you can try this thing until you get your mileage in. it's just practice and confidence through repetition
https://www.milescraft.com/product/drillblock/

 

[RKA]

I used drill guides made by big gator if I need to perpendicular pilot hole.  They have several different ones and one for metric sizes, so make sure you order the one with the correct sizes you’re likely to need.  Clamp it in place and drill away.  Beware, if you’re drilling a small diameter pilot, you have to pay attention if you wander off vertical.  If you’re too sloppy, the thin bits will snap on you.

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Gator-Tools-STD1000DGNP-V-Drill/dp/B0061FY004/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=drill+guide&qid=1613582527&sr=8-5

 

[Rick Herrick]

Have you considered pocket holes?  All my cabinets are put together with a domino on each end, for alignment, and then space out a few pocket holes in between.  This used to be frustrating until I got the Domino.  The pocket hole screws always want to move the stock a tad but now the domino holds it tight.

 

[DynaGlide]

You got me thinking something like this but make it out of plywood. Mark down on the short edge half your stock thickness, drill a guide hole, and use that to do all your pre-drilling for the carcass screws. Would only take a few minutes to make one up.

 

[hdv]

Here's an example of what [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] meant. If you take good care when glueing the bullseye level to your drill you will always have an easy way to drill straight. If you don't have a flat area on your drill you can use epoxy and a piece of plastic tubing to create one.[attachimg=1] My hand-eye coordination isn't the best around, so I do need such a cheat as this...  [unsure] [smile]

 

[rajun.services]

Here's an example of what [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] meant. If you take good care when glueing the bullseye level to your drill you will always have an easy way to drill straight. If you don't have a flat area on your drill you can use epoxy and a piece of plastic tubing to create one.[attachimg=1] My hand-eye coordination isn't the best around, so I do need such a cheat as this...  [unsure] [smile]

Great Thank you guys! really appreciate the different perspectives.
I ordered the Big Gator, But you know keep it flush while driving a screw that's joining two 5/8th, in theory my hole has to be at the 5/16 th mark away from the join that's 90's. So there not a lot of room to hold the Big Gator or even clamp.
Same with the Milecraft jig.
The one I need is a perpendicular with a distance that is 5/16 in this case away from the edge and hold it flush against the carcass.
I did look at Kreg, but I think a 2inch screw is a better hold than the 1 and 1/8th screw? --- Would love to hear your thoughts on this one as well.
I also have ordered those spirit level to add to my drill, waiting for Amazon delivery
Is there a technique for apply that level accurately?

 

[hdv]

Use a long piece of rod that you know is straight. Clamp it in a vice and make sure it is plumb. Then slide the chuck over the rod and close it. Now you know for sure that the level is correctly aligned when the air pocket is centered. Depending on your drill you might need a gap-filling glue or epoxy.

 

[dicktill]

You got me thinking something like this but make it out of plywood. Mark down on the short edge half your stock thickness, drill a guide hole, and use that to do all your pre-drilling for the carcass screws. Would only take a few minutes to make one up.

What is this gizmo?

 

[rajun.services]

https://www.banggood.com/Drillpro-6...-p-1701720.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search

 

[Michael Kellough]

Can’t tell if your issue is drilling pilot holes square to the surface (most of the suggestions address this), or if it’s that the screw/hole is too close (“5/16”) to a perpendicular panel that prevents a bit in a drill from being parallel to the panel (because no drill chuck is only 5/8” in diameter).

If it’s the later you need the smallest right angle adapter available and then use a hex shank drill bit.

 

[rajun.services]

It's more about drilling pilot holes square to the surface.
I'm thinking if I should one of those galvanized square brackets and make jig out of it to see if I can place them on my carcass and hold it down when drilling the whole.

 

[fshanno]

I use pocket screws if I can get away with it.  But even with them there's no guarantee that it will squeeze together like we want.  We're totally depending on the threads as our clamp. 

The dado people kind of have the advantage over butt joint people here.  They control the width of the dado and if the partition doesn't absolutely bottom out in the dado in the middle so what.  It'll never be seen.

If it's a frameless kitchen I just don't do partitions.  Separate cases if at all possible.

There is the notion of a deep reach clamp as an alternative to screws.  Then everything can be tenons.  I think that's better if it can be done.  We just need it to come together until the glue dries.

I haven't found a commercial clamp that can clamp the middle of 24 in deep x 36" tall cabinet.  Bessy has a deep reach clamp with plenty of throat depth but it's only got a 24" capacity. 

There are a lot of ideas for fabricating them.  It would seem that Domino people would be the natural ones to perused this.

 

[Cheese]

I'm with Raj on this one, just use the Big Gator you just purchased, it'll be fine. No need to clamp it, just hold it firmly with one hand and drill. Don't try to go the full depth at once. Between the hole you're drilling and the hole in the Big Gator, there's little room to expel sawdust. So peck-drill the hole. Drill a 1/4" deep hole then remove the drill and clear the chips. Carefully align the drill bit, Big Gator and the new shallow hole, firmly grasp Big Gator and drill another 1/4" deep. Repeat...after the hole is 3/4" deep you don't even need to use Big Gator because the drill bit is going nowhere.  [smile]

I have all the Big Gator drill guides in both metric & imperial and cannot say enough good things about them. They're used all the time when a drill press cannot be used.

Here's the MINI I recently used for drilling over 300 pilot holes for #4 & #6 screws in cabinets.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Michael Kellough]

I use pocket screws if I can get away with it.  But even with them there's no guarantee that it will squeeze together like we want.  We're totally depending on the threads as our clamp. 

The dado people kind of have the advantage over butt joint people here.  They control the width of the dado and if the partition doesn't absolutely bottom out in the dado in the middle so what.  It'll never be seen.

If it's a frameless kitchen I just don't do partitions.  Separate cases if at all possible.

There is the notion of a deep reach clamp as an alternative to screws.  Then everything can be tenons.  I think that's better if it can be done.  We just need it to come together until the glue dries.

I haven't found a commercial clamp that can clamp the middle of 24 in deep x 36" tall cabinet.  Bessy has a deep reach clamp with plenty of throat depth but it's only got a 24" capacity. 

There are a lot of ideas for fabricating them.  It would seem that Domino people would be the natural ones to perused this.

BowClamps.

 

[rst]

The Big Gator guides are great, I service, sell and install commercial steel and aluminum entrances and am a 40 year locksmith.  When installing commercial locksets, exit devices and magnetic locks ,it is often imperative that the through holes line up perfectly...the Gator guides make that possible and reduce the headaches of misaligned holes especially in the field on retro fits.

 

[tofu]

Are you screwing without gluing? Might want to use Pocket holes in that case.

If you're using fat screws to act like dowels (kinda like confirmat), I make an L shaped jig to get the spacing and angle dead on.

If gluing, I find it faster to just rabbet and shoot brads while the glue dries.