Which cordless track saw?

[tbeaulieu]

I'm a hobbyist with a Festool problem. You know what I mean by that, I'm sure. I have a corded 75 saw that I love. I recently ordered a reconditioned HKC55 EB, which is set to arrive today. Now I'm second-guessing my purchase, thinking that I should have watched for a TSC 55 KEB. Oh ... I'm still struggling with their part numbers, so it's possible I haven't listed the exact model that I should be considering.

I won't use the saw much, but I figured it would be more convenient than the corded, which can be a real PITA, until I figure out a boom or suspension solution.

Is the TSC more accurate? Are they just as advanced, technology-wise? Has anyone actually used both?

Thank you.

 

[Bob D.]

I think what you will use the saw for is more relevant in this case than how often.

The HKC and TSC are aimed at different markets.
=180

 

[mino]

For hobby use, if not having any saw, I would say get the TSC 55 REBQ i.e. the older version not the new K one.

The REBQ has the riving knife and thicker blade which allow to use it safely also freehand/without rail so is a more universal tool. It also accepts the 15V batteries unlike the K version ..

But you already hav a 75 ... which changes the equation.

The HKC55 is no replacement for a TS/TSC as it lacks the power and does not have the outer anti-splinter thing. But if you already have TS75 as your main saw, a HKC55 may be the way to go to complent but not replace it.

HKC is no a tracksaw though and you will end up sticking with the TS75 for your track work.

 

[Cypren]

I own both. The HK 55 and the TS 55 are essentially two different takes on the track saw concept for two different types of carpenters. There's a lot of overlap in their functionality, but their areas of emphasis are different.

Both:

• Are plunge cut saws
• Have a 55mm cut depth
• Are compatible with FS-series track
• Have 160mm diameter blades

The TS 55:

• Has an encased blade to collect the vast majority of dust and chips (even without a dust extractor attached)
• Has a zero-clearance splinter guard which prevents tearout and improves dust collection even further
• Holds the blade in the fully-raised position; it must be plunged to cut
• Plunges from the rear, angling forward into the material
• Has a micro-adjust on the depth stop for sub-millimeter precision
• Angles from -1° to 47°, with secured angle stops at both ends for rigidity
• Uses a 2.2mm width blade on TSC 55 REQ and earlier models (the new TSC 55 K uses the same 1.8mm blades as the HK series)
• Comes with a 48-tooth fine crosscut blade

The HK 55:

• Has an open blade with a sliding guard like a traditional circular saw, letting a lot of dust escape
• Does not have a splinter guard, relying entirely on the track to reduce splintering on the left edge of the cut only
• Holds the blade in the fully-lowered position; it must be raised to plunge
• Plunges from the front, angling backward into the material
• Angles from 0° to 50°, with an angle stop only in the rear
• Uses a 1.8mm blade
• Comes with an 18-tooth ripping blade
• Can use the FSK-series rails for quick, repeatable miter cuts of 0° to 60°
• Has a better balance and weight distribution for using freehand on narrow material rather than on the track

When you look at these side by side, it's rather evident that Festool engineers designed the TS 55 for fine carpentry work in a workshop, and the HK 55 for framing carpentry work on the job site. The former saw prioritizes clean cuts, precise depth control, excellent dust collection, and assumes you are almost always going to use it on a clamped, anchored track rather than freehand. The latter prioritizes fast cuts, quick repositioning (with the FSK rail) and assumes you're mostly going to use it freehand for straight cuts, not plunge cuts.

I agree with the others who say that from a practical standpoint, the HKC 55 probably offers more utility to you, owning a TS 75, than the TSC 55 would. The TSC is just a smaller, lighter, cordless version of the saw you already own. The HK offers a different set of functionality, especially when combined with the FSK rail, which makes short miter cuts much faster compared to setting up the standard FS rails.

 

[demographic]

I have a HKC55 (xordless)  and a TS55 (corded) and work as a full time carpenter.
Since I got my HKC I've hardly ever pulled the TS out of my van toolsafe.

Use the 12 tooth rip blade and get the 420 crosscut blade.
It works well on the normal rails, plunges OK but the dust extraction isn't as good as the TS.

If you regularly find it underpowered with the 12 tooth blade then your technique needs looking at.

 

[grobkuschelig]

Hobbyist with HKC 55 and TS55 here.
I can only echo the opinions voiced above.

All great saws but the HKC would offer more versatility to your TS75.

The only scenarios where I would lean towards getting a TSC55 would be:
A) If you need to do a lot of precise finishing work on site/away from the shop. (Flooring fitting wardrobes etc…)
B) If you only do in shop work and want a smaller saw for ergonomics and are somehow not using a dust hose.

But we are all unicorns in what we favor and our reasoning. Pick your poison, or get both. [emoji6]

 

[squall_line]

I thought the stock blade for the HK55 / HKC55 was an 18-tooth?  I thought that the 12-tooth "Panther" ripping blade is an optional blade that comes packaged as a second blade in some of the combo kits but is otherwise a separate purchase?

 

[grobkuschelig]

…, which can be a real PITA, until I figure out a boom or suspension solution.

I was able to find a cheap balancer (basically a cord/wire on a coil spring). Works great for me as a way to support the dust hose & cord.
Mine is a little too strong (2.5kg) but if you got one from 0.5-1.5kg it should be perfect!

 

[Cypren]

I thought the stock blade for the HK55 / HKC55 was an 18-tooth?  I thought that the 12-tooth "Panther" ripping blade is an optional blade that comes packaged as a second blade in some of the combo kits but is otherwise a separate purchase?

Yep, you're correct; I should have checked the product listing rather than relying on memory. Edited the post above to fix it.

 

[mino]

...
If you regularly find it underpowered with the 12 tooth blade then your technique needs looking at.

My comment was relating to HKC55 (fully) substituting for a TS to a point one would prefer it to a TS75 for sheet goods cabinetry.

There a 36-tooth blade is the -compromise- solution already and the HKC is not built for that while the TSC is.

For carpentry, with 12-tooth blade the HKC55 is strong aplenty indeed ..

IMO HKC55 + TS75 is a good combination. Better than TSC + TS75.
I love my TSC, but here in Europe we have the even better TSC55 + HK85 + dado accessory combination possibility. Optimal for a hobby user to have all bases covered with the least of tools.

 

[Holzhacker]

I have to agree with others on this one. I've had a TS75 for years and relied on it a lot. Last year or was that pre-Covid, just don't know. I starting thinking about picking up one of the 55's for smaller or thinner stock. Looked at both the TS55 and HKC55. Went with the HK and don't regret it at all.
The HK clearly has a different purpose than the TS. I would say figure out what you need another saw for and decide from there.

 

[Cheese]

I have a mixed bag of saws. From an older TS 55 to a TSC 55 to a HKC 55 and finally a MT 55. I also keep a Milwaukee 8 1/4" worm drive with a diamond blade around for cutting NY blue stone material.

So, out of that bunch which would I jettison, the TS 55 for sure and I'll also be replacing the TSC 55 with a TSC 55 K.

After owning the Mafell MT 55 you suddenly realize how simple blade changes are once the riving knife is removed. That's the reason the TSC 55 is going down the road. Besides, the TSC 55 K blades are now interchangeable with the blades for the HKC.  [big grin]

I've had kick backs with the older TSC so a riving knife is not some magical element that prevents kick backs. It's back to user beware and just be careful with how you operate the tool.

So what's hanging around for a while? The TSC 55 K, the HKC, the MT 55, the Milwaukee and maybe a TS 75 when they ramp up production...or the Mafell equivalent.  [smile]

 

[Cypren]

So what's hanging around for a while? The TSC 55 K, the HKC, the MT 55, the Milwaukee and maybe a TS 75 when they ramp up production...or the Mafell equivalent.  [smile]

When do you find yourself using the Mafell in preference to the TSC 55? (Or rather, when do you think you will, once you get the K?)

I've got a pretty similar collection of saws to yours, but haven't taken the plunge (no pun intended) with any Mafell gear yet. I keep hearing "they're just better" from people, but not a lot of details about why.

 

[mino]

I've had kick backs with the older TSC so a riving knife is not some magical element that prevents kick backs. It's back to user beware and just be careful with how you operate the tool.
...

We have a cheapo tracksaw in shop which does not have a riving knife or anti-kickback and it is absolutely fine for track use with sheet goods. When it does kick back (user error) the base will "self-retract" but that is still extremely rare.

I see the "floating" riving knife as implemented on the TS/TSC as primarily a feature for ripping natural wood which has internal tension, making the cut "close" after the saw. This is especially critical for free-hand ripping where there is no track to help steady the saw. Also for CMS use it is/was a must-have on the TS55.

If the knife bothered me - and I did not (ab)use my TSC free-hand - I would simply remove it. It is not needed for track use and as mentioned it does not prevent kickback when rail moves etc. It is floating so it cannot prevent one side of the saw back pressing against the material. All it does is allow reliably ripping natural wood with internal tension.

But it does not bother me at all.
Replacing blades the biggest peeve is the washer as it can drop between the blade and the saw body. Knife I just hide with left hand so it does not obstruct anything. I also filed and sanded mine's edges so is totally smooth when coming in contact with the material to the point I am not aware it is there.

 

[tbeaulieu]

Lots of great feedback. I shouldn't have bought this saw. Oh well. Not the worst mistake I've ever made. Will have to decide whether to keep it or attempt to sell it locally.

 

[Lincoln]

So what's hanging around for a while? The TSC 55 K, the HKC, the MT 55, the Milwaukee and maybe a TS 75 when they ramp up production...or the Mafell equivalent.  [smile]

When do you find yourself using the Mafell in preference to the TSC 55? (Or rather, when do you think you will, once you get the K?)

I've got a pretty similar collection of saws to yours, but haven't taken the plunge (no pun intended) with any Mafell gear yet. I keep hearing "they're just better" from people, but not a lot of details about why.

off the top of my head - more power, better battery platform, only takes x1 battery, easier/quicker blade change, better dust extraction, better rail joining, better bevel locking mechanism, scoring cut option.

 

[mino]

Lots of great feedback. I shouldn't have bought this saw. Oh well. Not the worst mistake I've ever made. Will have to decide whether to keep it or attempt to sell it locally.

The HKC is an excellent small circular saw. You are better getting the special FSK rail for it (+ bag) and will love it for outside-shop miters and the occasional cordless task. It is just no TS/TSC replacement.

If you are annoyed by the cable, consider instead dedicating one hose to permanently join it with the cable. Then you can use or it for sanders as well as for the TS75 as you just re-plug on the tool end. That is how the plug-it is meant to be used and where it shines.

The thing is, the TSC is not much easier to work with compared to TS75 once a joined cable/hose is used. It is heavier than the TS55 so the advantage to TS75 on weight is limited.

 

[FestitaMakool]

Lots of great feedback. I shouldn't have bought this saw. Oh well. Not the worst mistake I've ever made. Will have to decide whether to keep it or attempt to sell it locally.

Oh, no! Not until you’ve tried it! It is so much more than a TS.
You have a TS, a smaller one does not do more for you? As Mino says, try a FSK rail too.

Don’t forget that a plunge saw as TS is basically table saw upside down, therefore it’s use is limited. And it’s just a circular saw.. Broken down, the TS only has better dust collection and an optional splinter guard on the right hand side over the HK(C). The new TS will share blades with the HK saws. The HKC is so much more versatile than other saws out there, apart from Mafell’s and the new Metabo’s that now has a similar FSK rail. It’ll be up to you and your use and skills.

I’ve heard two separate woodworkers that do mixed work who has said they wished they had bought the HKC before their TS saw, they both left the TS redundant to table top specialist jobs.

 

[mrboult]

Another one here with the corded TS & cordless HKC. I love that combination.

The HKC is a fab saw and in many cases I take only it to the job as it is so much more versatile with both types of rail than the TS saw.

The TS is more powerful for lots of ripping, smoother plunging for cutouts, better cut quality on the off side of the cut even without the additional splinter guard and it’s quicker to use on the FS rails all day.

The HKC has both rail options, can be used free hand easily like a regular circular saw, is smaller and lighter. Not to mention cordless. .

As a professional the HKC wouldn’t ever fully replace my TS for the finer furniture work, but it almost could, and depending on the situation it sometimes does.

 

[squall_line]

My HKC 55 is one of the few things keeping me from buying a SCMS.  Well that and room.  And my neighbor across the street has a table saw, mitre saw, and radial arm saw...  It's a versatile little beast nonetheless!

In any case, I was working on a bookshelf project made from reclaimed mahogany built-ins.  The first half of the project I used my corded circular saw to cut boards to rough length along with a straight edge clamped to the board.  By the time I got to the second half of the project, I had an HKC and FSK 420 rail.  I used the rail to cut the boards to final length and it was so much quicker and cleaner and easier than using a square and straight edge with a circular saw.

I also used the rail's mitre stop along with the saw's bevel adjustment to make a compound scarf joint for the trim around the base of the unit (didn't have any pieces long enough and clean enough for the entire front) and the 45 degree bevel with the track at 90 degrees to make the mitred trim corners.  It was so quick and clean and easy (after a test cut to make sure I knew how I was setting up the scarf joint), although a CMS/SCMS would have been easier to set up for the trim if I had one.