Which length track should I get?

luke duke

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Nov 3, 2014
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I'm completely new to Festool. I just bought a TS55 REQ track saw. Right now I only have the 55" track that came with the saw. From what I understand joining multiple tracks doesn't always work too well. Since I plan to break down 4'x8' sheets of plywood I will need to get a longer track. Should I get the 106" or the 118" track? Are there any advantages to the 118" if I only plan to work with 8' wood?
 
congrats on your first purchase, buy the appropriate track for the type of work that you often do. I have the 42 and 55 that came with the tss55 and mft3. i havent used the rail support yet as i dont have a need for it.
 
I've been quietly reading and searching for the past two weeks since I also got a TS55REQ. I've waffled back and forth between buying a 75" with Makita connectors and a Betterley jig or getting a 118" rail. Mine won't be transported and I can store the big one so Bob will be getting an order for a 118" from me tonight or tomorrow. From all I've read the 118" is the better choice for ripping full sheets, it leaves enough at the beginning and end of the cut for comfort. From what I've read the 106" works perfectly fine but the longer on seems to be preferable.
 
I sell a lot of the FS 3000/2 (118") Guide Rail. I don't recommend the 2700mm (106") to anyone. I can't remember ever selling one. I have had several people want the shorter one and every one, I think, has appreciated that I steered them toward the longer (3000mm) rail.

Though the 2700 will work with a TS 55 on an 8' sheet, it's going to be fiddly. That sort of defeats the whole efficiency goal. Also, if an angled cut is needed the long way...

Tom
 
I have the 118" rail, it makes working with 8' sheet goods a lot easier, so i would go with that one over the 106"
 
I would highly recommend the 3000 (118") as well.
(Last year I graduated to the 5000 length - no regrets)

Keep in mind that if u are using both the 55 and the 75 saws that the 75 model blades cut at a wider kerf. (It will chomp more of the rubber or white plastic lead)
So if u are flipping between them both e v e n t u a l l y  you may be aquiring rails for each. ;-)
 
Roger Savatteri said:
Keep in mind that if u are using both the 55 and the 75 saws that the 75 model blades cut at a wider kerf. (It will chomp more of the rubber or white plastic lead)
So if u are flipping between them both e v e n t u a l l y  you may be aquiring rails for each. ;-)
They can be adjusted to have matching offsets.
 
Roger Savatteri said:
I would highly recommend the 3000 (118") as well.
(Last year I graduated to the 5000 length - no regrets)

Keep in mind that if u are using both the 55 and the 75 saws that the 75 model blades cut at a wider kerf. (It will chomp more of the rubber or white plastic lead)
So if u are flipping between them both e v e n t u a l l y  you may be aquiring rails for each. ;-)

All of the TS75s, TS55 and TS55 REQ have had their toe-in adjusted so that they accurately use the same splinter guard on every one of my guide rails.

As for the 2700mm vs 3000mm choice, it is true the 2700mm rail can be used with a TS55 to make the long cuts on an 8' sheet, but you need to do so very carefully. The 2700mm rail will be too short to do the same using a TS75.

My suggestion is that if you cannot store or transport a 3000mm rail, chances are that you also cannot transport the 2700mm rail.

Before I opened my current huge cabinet shop I was building prototypes in my condo. I used a former bedroom for doing most of the drilling and routing on sheets, as well as cross cutting. I did the ripping in the former living room where I had a lot of space, so the first long rails I bought were the 2424mm Holy rail to drill shelf holes on bookcases and pantries and a 3000mm rail for making the 8' rips.

Later I realized that when I managed to move the 3000mm rial into the bedroom, I did not have room to walk around it. I knew I would not be using it to saw, but to make long grooves with routers. I measured and found that I could walk around the 2700mm rail, so I bought one. My dealer still tells me that mine is the only 2700mm rail he has sold since he became a pioneer Festool dealer well before 2006.
 
First, [welcome] to the FOG!

Speaking of fog...guide rail lengths are one of those things that make you think you're swimming in it!

I'm gonna side with the majority ( I think ) and say go with the 3000/118". It will allow you to do many angled cuts as well as straight 'break down' cuts. As long as you can handle the extra foot of length, it's the one you want.
 
No question get the 3000mm.

I initially tried to work with the 75" track that came with the TS75 plus a 42" track added to the end, and was not terribly happy with the results, so I purchased the 3000mm, and am so glad I did.  As someone has already mentioned, while the 106" gives just enough clearance for the TS55 on a 4x8 sheet (though not really if you're trying to eliminate all margin for error on the front of the cut), the TS75 requires more than 3" excess rail at both front an end, because of the friction/bump produced as the saw slides fully into the track.  Plus, the 3000mm would support that rare occasion where you wanted to make an angled cut lengthwise down the sheet.
 
ccarrolladams said:
Roger Savatteri said:
I would highly recommend the 3000 (118") as well.
(Last year I graduated to the 5000 length - no regrets)

Keep in mind that if u are using both the 55 and the 75 saws that the 75 model blades cut at a wider kerf. (It will chomp more of the rubber or white plastic lead)
So if u are flipping between them both e v e n t u a l l y  you may be aquiring rails for each. ;-)

All of the TS75s, TS55 and TS55 REQ have had their toe-in adjusted so that they accurately use the same splinter guard on every one of my guide rails.

My bad,
Thank you for the "adjustment and how to correction",
Somehow that insight to adjust for the different kerfs passed me by.
 
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