Which Rotex 150 pad recommendation

[Greg Ladd]

A water line froze, broke and damaged a ceiling in my home. I need to remove the paint and knockdown finish on the remaining ceiling so it can be retaped to the new ceiling and refinished later. I have a new Rotex 150 I would like to use. Should I use the standard pad that comes with the Rotex 150 or should I get an interface pad? If I need an interface pad which one(s)?

I also plan to use the Rotex to sand down the drywall joints after I rehang the new drywall; with dust extractor, of course.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Greg

 

[AlexThePalex]

Greg, the standard pad is good enough. I assume the ceiling is nice and flat?

Just don't use too coarse sandpaper. 120 to 180 should be fine. I prefer Granat for drywall/plaster, Brilliant is also a good choice.

 

[Tinker]

when i first got my RO 150, I had the original pad and used it with no problem.  I have not used it for sanding drywall, so not much reliable advise for your immediate problem. 

Eventually, i did a small lazy susan using some locust in the center with a hard knot.  quarter sections surrounding the knot of pine and straight grained locust (if memory is correct).  I sanded with the RO going thru grits, but not seeming to accomplish much over the center piece with the knot.  I looked more closely and realized I was actually scooping the the softer pine. (I have an eye problem that makes it difficult for me to see such dips).  the more i sanded, the worse it got.  I found out i could get a stiffer pad and got the stiffest i could get.  Once that was installed, i had no problem and was even, with much time and patience, able to level the surface.  I now use the hard pad almost exclusively, especially over unevenly dense surfaces.

I am thinking that sanding over dry wall, with uneven density between sheet rock and joint cement, the harder pad might be better.  I used to do taping in the winter, and never used any more than a block of wood with sand paper folded around to do only a spot or two now and then.  I tried to make my joint cement applications smooth enough no sanding necessary. If you have not sanded sheetrock before, you should probably practice on a hidden surface first. 

Sorry I don't have any better info, but I am pretty sure others will join in with better experience.
Tinker

 

[Greg Ladd]

Thanks gentlemen,

Standard pad it is then.

Thanks again,
Greg

 

[CrazyLarry]

Although standard will be fine so long as the finish surrounding is pretty good / even already, as tinker said the hard pad can really help you get there quicker.

Otherwise although 120 -180 is usually enough depending on how fine a finish it will be, you can go all the way to 300 if you drop the speed and the suction, the RO 150 is amazingly controlable

At the other end of the spectrum I was shredding 6 - 8 coats of uneven old paint with drips and runs in two passes yesterday with a 40 grit granat ... awesome! For that the hard pad is essential or you'll end up with highs and lows that only become apparent as you go up the grits.