Mike Goetzke
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I have a Fuji Q4 HVLP system. What is a good waterborne white paint that I can purchase in quarts or gallon - preferably locally (I live SW of Chicago)?
Thanks
Thanks
White Finish for Kids Dresser
- Thread starter Mike Goetzke
- Start date
Benjamin-Moore’s Advance cures very hard in white and light colors, and sprays very nicely from my stage-4 HVLP sprayer with a minimal amount of thinning required.
In gloss only, it is rated as an exterior finish. But note that it is very slow drying (which aids leveling) and re-coat times at 16 hours.
In my opinion the white cures as hard as oil based polyurethane. It brushes nicely too. The dark colors cure noticeably softer.
I usually shoot satin, except for cabinet interiors, where I shoot white gloss. The only factory colors are white and black. The rest get mixed at the store.
About $70.00 per gallon retail. My dealer give me a contractor discount.
It is fairly thin for a modern paint, which only means less thinning to spray.
It was engineered as a cabinet paint, so quite durable when cured. I like to let it cure for 48 hours before putting it into service.
There are plenty of other cabinet paints out there. Most would be satisfactory for this application.
In gloss only, it is rated as an exterior finish. But note that it is very slow drying (which aids leveling) and re-coat times at 16 hours.
In my opinion the white cures as hard as oil based polyurethane. It brushes nicely too. The dark colors cure noticeably softer.
I usually shoot satin, except for cabinet interiors, where I shoot white gloss. The only factory colors are white and black. The rest get mixed at the store.
About $70.00 per gallon retail. My dealer give me a contractor discount.
It is fairly thin for a modern paint, which only means less thinning to spray.
It was engineered as a cabinet paint, so quite durable when cured. I like to let it cure for 48 hours before putting it into service.
There are plenty of other cabinet paints out there. Most would be satisfactory for this application.
sancho57
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i like useing either GF or Renner.
Renner is a Italian made W/B coating. Its a thicker coating sprays great but uses a bigger N/N and aircap then GF finishes does.
Ive been sing Renner more and more.
I can find it locally here. Here is a company that sells it ships free and as the owner is a 3rd generation furniture refinisher has expert knowlegde on the product. He also has a you tube channell you can check out.
FYI other than likeing this product I have no affiliation with any company. Just giving my opinion
https://www.finefinishsupply.com
Renner is a Italian made W/B coating. Its a thicker coating sprays great but uses a bigger N/N and aircap then GF finishes does.
Ive been sing Renner more and more.
I can find it locally here. Here is a company that sells it ships free and as the owner is a 3rd generation furniture refinisher has expert knowlegde on the product. He also has a you tube channell you can check out.
FYI other than likeing this product I have no affiliation with any company. Just giving my opinion
https://www.finefinishsupply.com
woodferret
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- Jan 5, 2020
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Target Coatings EM6500 tinted lacquer. Burns in, 20mins recoat (2-3). Mistake friendly. Top with the polycarbonate EM9300 (4 coats) and it'll be impervious to nuclear blasts, or kids. One hour between coats. Cross linker available to survive better than cockroaches. You can scotchbrite scuffs and respray when that eventuality comes.
Mike Goetzke
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Thanks for the replies. All seem to be excellent choices. I have used Target exclusively in the past but wanted to try something I can get locally. I just noticed they opened a BM store up right across from SW may have to stop in.
If you use the B-M Advance, you do have to pay attention to the time-between-coats of 16 hours.
If you shorten that, it seals the earlier coat and it can take much, much longer for a full cure.
As I mentioned earlier, the advantage of the very slow cure time is that it gives gravity time to level the coat.
It does hang pretty well on vertical surfaces, but my preference is to shoot horizontally whenever possible.
When painting cabinet doors my process is this:
Prime (I use 1-2-3 from Zinsser, but B-M makes a very good Fresh Start primer, and a dedicated Advance primer which I have not used).
Wait one hour and flip to shoot the other side.
Wait one more hour (two hours between coat times for 1-2-3) and shoot first coat of Advance.
I wait about one hour until the coat looks dry and then I play a fan on the surface to push the cure along.
I wait 6 hours—too soon to re-coat, but OK to flip onto painters drying pyramids—and then apply first coat of Advance to the second side.
The next morning I am able to re-coat the first side with Advance and then about 6 hours later the second side.
As I mentioned earlier, the white cures very hard and fairly quickly. You can certainly put it into service after 24 hours.
All of this seems pretty burdensome but becomes habit pretty quickly.
Of all the paints I have sprayed, Advance gives me the nicest surface finish.
If you decide to go to Sherwin-Williams, their Emerald comes in latex and urethane versions. I found the hard way that you cannot count on the S-W counter help to know the difference. I went in and said, “I want Emerald satin for cabinets.” When I should have been even more specific and said “urethane”.
Emerald latex is not a satisfactory paint for cabinets or entryway doors. In other words, you are going to have to be smarter about S-W products than the help is likely to be.
If you shorten that, it seals the earlier coat and it can take much, much longer for a full cure.
As I mentioned earlier, the advantage of the very slow cure time is that it gives gravity time to level the coat.
It does hang pretty well on vertical surfaces, but my preference is to shoot horizontally whenever possible.
When painting cabinet doors my process is this:
Prime (I use 1-2-3 from Zinsser, but B-M makes a very good Fresh Start primer, and a dedicated Advance primer which I have not used).
Wait one hour and flip to shoot the other side.
Wait one more hour (two hours between coat times for 1-2-3) and shoot first coat of Advance.
I wait about one hour until the coat looks dry and then I play a fan on the surface to push the cure along.
I wait 6 hours—too soon to re-coat, but OK to flip onto painters drying pyramids—and then apply first coat of Advance to the second side.
The next morning I am able to re-coat the first side with Advance and then about 6 hours later the second side.
As I mentioned earlier, the white cures very hard and fairly quickly. You can certainly put it into service after 24 hours.
All of this seems pretty burdensome but becomes habit pretty quickly.
Of all the paints I have sprayed, Advance gives me the nicest surface finish.
If you decide to go to Sherwin-Williams, their Emerald comes in latex and urethane versions. I found the hard way that you cannot count on the S-W counter help to know the difference. I went in and said, “I want Emerald satin for cabinets.” When I should have been even more specific and said “urethane”.
Emerald latex is not a satisfactory paint for cabinets or entryway doors. In other words, you are going to have to be smarter about S-W products than the help is likely to be.
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