White Oak and Steel Stair

Of2200 rocks
 

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I like it!  Where did you source those stringers?  And what are you routing into the treads with the 2200? 
 
Why the threaded rod?

Doesn't the strength of the stringer keep the stringers connected?
 
I also like it...nice job.

Are you inleting the treads to fit flush with the brackets?
 
No kapex. Tsc 55 with rail and two square. I will post more pic bunt the site will only allow me to upload 1 picture at a time.
 
Just below the choose file button there is a more attachments link.  Click that to add another pic.  There is a limit of 5 or something per post, but at least you can upload multiples at a time.
 
Yes the of 2200 is dadoing out the bottom of each tread so the brackets are flush to the bottom of the tread. The rod is to reduce the space to less tha 4”. Which is the baby head code.
 

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glass1 said:
Yes the of 2200 is dadoing out the bottom of each tread so the brackets are flush to the bottom of the tread. The rod is to reduce the space to less tha 4”. Which is the baby head code.

I just did shop drawings and install on a similar project but glulam treads were used which were thick enough to keep the babes heads out. 6 floors, none square, level to each other. Shown are temp. 2x treads.
 

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glass1 said:
Yes the of 2200 is dadoing out the bottom of each tread so the brackets are flush to the bottom of the tread. The rod is to reduce the space to less tha 4”. Which is the baby head code.

I love how in some magazines it seams like every house has a staircase in violation of this code (and many more).  I like this solution, it ties in well.
 
[member=4687]glass1[/member]
glass1 said:
No kapex. Tsc 55 with rail and two square. I will post more pic bunt the site will only allow me to upload 1 picture at a time.

To attach multiple images to a single post, click on the label that says (more attachments)

 

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I’ll try again
 

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Some side pictures of some off cuts from the treads. I had made all the treads tight when the architect announce he wanted a 3/32 reveal between the treads at the stringer so Had to make some shave cuts with the tsc55 and tso +guide rail. And of course old faithful that’s never let me down. Only one battery will still take a charge. I may have to revisit those Festool drills. If one considers how long they last their price is more tolerable.
 

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So you had to dado both the tread edge and the tread bottom to inlet for the welded brackets.  [smile]

I wonder what that 3/32" reveal will look like in 5 years on a sunny day?

5 years to collect dirt, cookie crumbs, dog fur & cat hair.  [tongue]

Really nice job.  [cool]

And the TSC has more power than the TS.
 
The stair is looking great and will only improve when the finish goes on the white oak.

The stair reminds me of a design I saw where the treads were about half the thickness of the ones in this stair. Each tread had three pegs drilled into the bottom of each tread protruding downwards about 4 inches. These pegs had a hole drilled in them that the rod like in your stair passed through. The rod was smooth in the center and had threads cut on the ends. This hole was slightly further down from the bottom of the tread than the holes in the stringers. This allows when the rod is tensioned to pull up on the middle of the tread. The center peg was straight down and the two offset pegs angled slightly towards the stringer. These pegs were sculpted out of a contrasting hardwood, so not just a round peg. I have tried to find the article but have been unable to do so. Hope my explanation makes sense? I have been looking for a job to incorporate the design into but never found one.

I agree with Cheese on the 3/32 gap. I prefer either a space big enough to clean easily or dead tight but telling the architect his idea did not make any sense never worked out well for me ;) Best to just build as drawn.
 
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