Why I HATE the "plug-it" cord!

I do own 1 or 2 each of the few Festools with a permanently attached power cord. I own a whole lot more Festools with Plug-It cords. Never has a Plug-It cord caused me any difficulty.

First of all, I spent over 50 years in the movie and TV business where various kinds of twist-lock connectors are common. Those do need a certain amount of experience.

Second, I do not leave a Plug-It cord inserted in any Festool that is not in active use. Also, although some Festools which draw little power come with Plug-It cords of lower capacity, all of those accept the higher capacity cords. Therefore I only use the high capacity Plug-It cords, which are as supple as the lower capacity cords.

Third, I believe it to be the best and most effective practice to double check the locking of the Plug-It cord before starting a tool, just as I encourage double checking the dust extraction hose is appropriately firmly attached.

Nothing spoils a cut like having a Plug-It or dust extraction hose dis-connecting in use. Those double checks should become habit, in my experience.
 
I like the plug-it cords.

They always seem to stay on when they should and come off when they should.
 
Peter Halle said:
A little insight into this thread might be in order.  This thread was active in 2009, just before the End User classes started.  This situation was mentioned because it was - and is - relevant to users of all experience levels.  The plug-it cord can be difficult to twist when new, and can remain that way especially if it is never removed from the tool - a situation that many owners (including myself) experience.  It is possible that if the cord is not attached properly the receiver can be damaged as the tool is used.  If a new cord is installed, it is then possible for the receiver to damage the new cord.  It doesn't happen every time, but it can.  If the cord is damaged and used on another tool, it is possible to then damage the receiver on that tool, and the cycle can go on.  It doesn't always happen, but it is possible.

In every Festool class that I have attended, the instructors go over how to install the plug it cord and how to make sure that it is properly tightened.  The tip about how to bevel the TS-55 saws to get adequate hand clearance is mentioned.  At no point in any of the classes I have attended has a member been mentioned by name - just the situation - and it has been used as a learning tool.  That is what the classes are all about. 

I believe that a post here that was intended to have some humor to it was taken by another member to be an insult and there was a reaction.

So let's keep this thread about the cords, not the other stuff.

Peter

Maybe this thread should be locked off... as it is a 2009 issue... and not real or current today??? [dead horse]

Cheers,
Steve
 
Maybe this thread should be locked off... as it is a 2009 issue... and not real or current today??? [dead horse]

Cheers,
Steve

Some parts of the thread remain current for folks like me that have had problems attempting to turn a plug-it cord by 90 degrees and not realizing just how important it was to do so.
 
Steve and Frank,

The operation and proper way to fasten the Plug-It cords are indeed current.  It is IMHO better to leave this going.  It might be locked in the future, but it has value now.

Peter
 
Regarding the main subject of this discussion, Yes, I also noticed that new cords are hard to lock in. They usually become easy to turn after a few dozen uses, and I have never had a cord pull off in use. And I agree that it's a good idea to leave the heavy guage cord attached to your vacuum (mine is zip tied to the hose) so you don't have to fuss about what tool you are using with what cord. In fact, I only use the heavy guage cords, having worn out my others (see below).
My semi-related issue is....since I use my many festools daily at work, eventually the electrical contact pins on the tool, and also the "female" receptacle on the plugit cord begin to get carbon buildup/ oxidation that eventually leads to a lack of electrical conduction. I have had to replace the pin assembly in most of my tools, the sanders most often. At the same time you must replace the cord, so you are working with fresh metal contacts throughout. I recently tried using the type of grease made for packing into spark plug boots, but it actually prevented conduction and the tools wouldn't work at all. After cleaning the grease out with solvent, the tools work, but I am searching for a good solution to prevent the oxidation problem. I wonder if Boeshield would work. I may just try it as an experiment. I noticed another discussion "Melting Cord End", where someone had a similar problem, but all the replies suggested that he wasn't connecting the cord properly. In my case, I have used Festool for many years, am well aware of how the cord works, and never had a problem until about the last 3 years, so I wonder if something has changed about the metal they use for the pins or maybe tolerances are slightly different on newer cords? Who knows, but I have to work with the tools and cords available at this time. Part of the problem may be that I sometimes run a tool for an hour or more at a time, so it gets pretty warm, but that's how my shop runs. All I want is to find a type of grease/oil/wax which will slow down the degradation of the pins so I only have to replace them every couple years instead of every 8 months. Any ideas?
 
A product called "Deoxit D5" helps any electrical contact.  I've used it for years on many electrical connections and it works at eliminating resistance.

So far I've had no problems with the Plug-it cords and like the convenience on the jig saw and 1010 routers.  The Ts55 never gets unhooked and thats good because the space is too tight to get my fingers around it and it is still very tight.
 
Laminator said:
A product called "Deoxit D5" helps any electrical contact.  I've used it for years on many electrical connections and it works at eliminating resistance.

So far I've had no problems with the Plug-it cords and like the convenience on the jig saw and 1010 routers.  The Ts55 never gets unhooked and thats good because the space is too tight to get my fingers around it and it is still very tight.

Here is a tip for the plug it on the TS-55. Loosen the bevel knobs and then flop it over.  You will have all the room you need even if you have big hands.

Peter
 
its funny reading this thread, i have never had a plug it cord come loose on my ts 55 or jigsaw in 5 years, also access to the female plug it connector on the 55 saw has never been an issue, it has never crossed my mind that it may be tight to get to, i love the plug it system just a little annoyed the 2200 doesnt have it, does the kapex?

edit. having watched brices video i can see how access to the plug it in the ts55 can be tricky if you are RIGHT handed, i am left handed and have never had this issue.
 
I'm just glad I never take the cord off the ts55 so its not an issue.  If the connection loosened up with use as my other plug it cords did, it would certainly be easy enough. One other reason I found it difficult is because I am right handed and my last three fingers are less than perfect from a close encounter of the bad kind with a table saw blade in 1991.( At least I still have them!)    I never thought about tilting saw and see that that would certainly work very well.  Overall I really like the plug it system and wish it was all Festools-- Kapex, Deltex, Ras 115, Older ATF 55, included it.
 
Dan1210 said:
its funny reading this thread, i have never had a plug it cord come loose on my ts 55 or jigsaw in 5 years, also access to the female plug it connector on the 55 saw has never been an issue, it has never crossed my mind that it may be tight to get to, i love the plug it system just a little annoyed the 2200 doesnt have it, does the kapex?

edit. having watched brices video i can see how access to the plug it in the ts55 can be tricky if you are RIGHT handed, i am left handed and have never had this issue.

Im the same mate im left handed mainly but I use my right hand aswell for some things im confused just cant make up my mind!  I write left hand and use things like scissors left handed bcus scissors just dont work with my right hand! but if I was to punch you  [tongue] or throw a ball I would use my right hand! So even using my right hand with the plug it cord I see no problem I dont know why people here are complaining bout it.  I have never never had any issue with the plug it being to tight or loose I often unplug my TS and my Domino well you have to unplug the Domino as it wont fit in the box with it attached.    I just wish OF2200 and the EHL65 and 85 had the plug it cord  mainly the EHL65

No the kapex does not have plug it but its the only tool I dont feel it needs it in my opinion. Also the kapex has cable storage on the back which is really nice keeps it tidy!

JMB
 
Might help if there is a mark on the plugit and a line on the tool that line up when fully locked. When I first got my tools, I didnt have problems with it falling out but I know I didn't tighten it all the way because the plug would rotate a small amount and I'd think it was locked not realizing I really needed to exert more force to get it into locked position
 
zapdafish said:
Might help if there is a mark on the plugit and a line on the tool that line up when fully locked. When I first got my tools, I didnt have problems with it falling out but I know I didn't tighten it all the way because the plug would rotate a small amount and I'd think it was locked not realizing I really needed to exert more force to get it into locked position

Take a closer look, just about every tool is already marked.
 
Is there someone who has made a plug-it for a bs75/105?
I've got a BS75 and to use the plug it system for it.
Ore perhaps is the wire diameter of the standard sets not enough?
 
I also have a BS 75 but never tried at fitting a Plug-it connector.
The power consumption should not be a problem.
Just swapping two wires is quite easy. Just be aware that the cable clamp is fitted just right.
I have done several other machines, not Festool as well.
I would say give it a try and be the first to report this on the FOG.

Some of the older machines are not changed by Festool and don't have the Plug-it connector (RAS 115, HL 850, RAP 80/150/180).
And there are machines NOT to be fitted with a Plug-it connector like the OF 2200 and KS 120, mainly because of the higher power consumption.
 
Can use this conversion kit?

Festool 491144 UBS-PUR 360 Plug It Conversion-Kit 240 Volt
Plug It Conversion kit 240 Volt for Festool power tools. Length 360mm.
 

Attachments

  • ombouwset-plug-it-ubs-pur-360-plug-it-240v.jpg
    ombouwset-plug-it-ubs-pur-360-plug-it-240v.jpg
    5.9 KB · Views: 296
On Festool NL the conversion kits are separated by type of machines. And the BS75/105 series is not mentioned.
The only difference is the length of the cord: 360-420 mm.

The machine with plug-it cord which draws the most current is the OF 1400 (1400W) and the BS 105 has the same power demand.
However the power cord of the BS 75 feels heavier then the standard Plug-it cords.
But you have to check the thickness of the copper leads. Normally it's 2x1,5 mm² or 2x2,5 mm².
 
Back
Top