wipe on finish advice please

[humantorch]

Hey gang,
I've got a large white ash dining table that exceeds the capacity of my spray room. I'd love to be able to use a wipe on poly of some sort but I'm really not familiar with specific products / brands. I'm based in southern Arizona so it's fairly warm.
I'd like to keep the wood as natural looking as possible while building up some substantial protection from wear and tear on the surface. I was also planning on going with a satin finish but I could step it up to a semi-gloss if I needed to.
I've also been hearing some ok things about some of the new water born products out there.
This sounds ideal to me since I will have to be applying the finish in the open shop so the quicker my dry time the safer I'll feel.
Does anybody have any good advice as to products to use, techniques and if I need to apply any sort of sanding / conditioning sealer prior?
All suggestions are helpful.
Thanks!
[attachimg=1]

 

[tjbnwi]

Zar Ultra Max wipe on.

Tom

 

[jacko9]

I like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane Wipe on Oil Varnish.  I dilute the first coat with 15% mineral spirits and use a paper rag bundle under soft cotton (old undershirts) to wet and swipe.  The nice thing about this finish is ease of application and durability.  I have used it for several table tops and it holds up very well.  I apply second, third and more coats (as desired) and you can achieve an almost sprayed look.  The secret is to apply thin coats and swipe once and move from wet to dry and resist going back over.  I don't find it necessary to sand between coats or after the final coat.
https://generalfinishes.com/retail-...oats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat#.VejUa-k-BoQ

I use the Semi-Gloss finish.

Jack

 

[humantorch]

Thanks Jack!
Being that I'm in a limited market and I know the local woodcraft carries general finishes products I think I'll go with this suggestion.
A couple questions:
Do you only dilute the first coat or do you scale back a little each addtl coat?
Also, as I'm not familiar with wipe on techniques could you explain a little the paper and cotton method?
Are you wadding the paper rags and then enveloping them in the cotton?
And I'm assuming it's one light wipe with the grain and then move on? Do you overlap wipes as you would if you were spraying?
Thanks so much for the advice!

I like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane Wipe on Oil Varnish.  I dilute the first coat with 15% mineral spirits and use a paper rag bundle under soft cotton (old undershirts) to wet and swipe.  The nice thing about this finish is ease of application and durability.  I have used it for several table tops and it holds up very well.  I apply second, third and more coats (as desired) and you can achieve an almost sprayed look.  The secret is to apply thin coats and swipe once and move from wet to dry and resist going back over.  I don't find it necessary to sand between coats or after the final coat.
https://generalfinishes.com/retail-...oats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat#.VejUa-k-BoQ

I use the Semi-Gloss finish.

Jack

 

[jacko9]

I use Scotts paper rags that I fold into a roughly 2 x 3" section (I shooting for a smooth cotton surface and try to keep wrinkles out as much as possible) and wet that lightly with mineral spirits and then fold soft cotton around that.  I try for a bundle roughly two inches thick and as wide as I can hold with one hand with the cotton pulled tight on the wiping surface.  The product is pretty thin to start with but I would still thin at least the first coat and depending on how warm and dry it is when you finish you might want to experiment on a spare board for the subsequent coats.  I only wipe with the grain and I try to keep overlap to about 1/3 or less.  The reason for first wetting the inside rags with mineral spirits is to better control the amount of wet varnish on the surface of the cotton.  Try using as little as possible only enough to get one full swipe along the full length with a light pressure swipe.  You need to be careful on the edges so I use a technique where you start from about a foot from the end and wipe towards the end and then back to the other end starting in from the finished edge.  I pour a small amount from the can into a small pie dish lined with aluminum foil and keep the can covered to minimize oxidation to the can contents.

I used this product over many projects and once you get used to the flow, it goes on very nicely.  Pay attention to the temperature and moisture in the air and try to apply with as little dust in the air as possible.  I did a rosewood dining room top 46" x 72" and with some patience it looks like a sprayed finish and is very durable to food and wine spills over the course of a few years now.

If you run into any issues and want some help send me a PM and I'll try to walk you through the technique.

Jack

 

[caseman]

What's wrong with natural tung oil?  If you want something that is easy to apply, gives a great finish, can be touched up or reapplied without stripping or sanding then tung oil may be an alternative.  Also you will not have to wrap or layer your applicator or jump on one foot while doing so.

 

[humantorch]

Thanks Jack!! I'll be sure to contact you if I have any issues or questions.
Caseman, I'm concerned about durability (or rather the client is) and since I'd rather not plan on any future touch ups or applications I decided to skip a straight oil finish.

 

[JeremyH.]

What about spraying not in the booth? If you can do it when all the dust is settled, you might just have to polish it a bit more with a sponge and some guardsman. It's not uncommon for people to not have a spray booth. I don't close the door to the one I use if no one has been in the shop at all doing any wood stuff. (I actually have less overspray that way since it circulates away some)

Although if you use a conventional gun forget it...

 

[grbmds]

[member=25598]humantorch[/member] I just read a Fine Woodworking review of finishes trying to identify finishes which can be used as either a wipe-on or brush-on. General was one that came out well both wiping and brushing but they also gave MinWax Fast-Drying Poly almost an equal rating and it is very inexpensive compared to General. I don't know which Fine Woodworking issue it was in though but it was this year. I've used both and they both work well. The Minwax Fast Drying does dry really fast and gives a good finish but maybe requires an extra coat.

 

[grbmds]

The finish review was in the December, 2014 FWW issue if you are interested..

 

[jacko9]

I read that article in Fine Woodworking and have used both products.  Marc Spagnuolo the "Wood Whisperer" did a video review of Oil-Based Finishes that explains the differences between the two products at;



Marc has some great videos on a variety of woodworking topics.

Jack

 

[stvrowe]

For wipe on finish, I use General Finishes Gel Top Coat - satin which is a urethane finish.  It is a thick gel that gives a very nice finish that is easy to apply.  For corners, I use a dry brush to get the finish into areas that a pad won't reach.  I used to use Bartley's but haven't seen it in several years.
Steve

 

[grbmds]

Used the General Wipe-On Gel. I agree it is very easy to put on and does a great job. It is almost fool-proof.