Wood for Victorian Gable trim

[tiralie]

 Thanks for the info.  It's always amazing how trade of any item can have a long, twisted tale behind it... [wink]

The history of Teak is as interesting.
Basically reads like a history of British imperialism and the growth of the world economy before WW1.
Tim

 

[tiralie]

I was at a Gary Katz Roadshow a few years ago and he was promoting Windsor One trim.  It is treated and pre-primed.  I don't know if they make the profiles you need, but it might be worth a look.

WindsorONE

Last time I checked, there is no distributor in Canada so it must be imported from the US.
We do have a similar non branded product here but not as good.
Tim

 

[tiralie]

In NYC, many Victorian homes used much red and white oak. Much high-end furniture was of mahogany. I'm not an expert, but I was under the impression that different areas used what was most abundant for home building.

My guess would be that New York/Manhattan would have had access to many types of wood because of the port and trading with Europe.

So I guess, in Canada it could be Larch.

Maybe but by 1800, much of the Larch or Tamarack in this area was destroyed by the sawfly. Tamarack is not the same as European Larch. Contrary to my first post I would think that in JC's area it would be either hemlock or pine.
There is a lot of native hemlock in this area still being milled, it's relatively inexpensive. The use White elm is also a possibility, as Dutch elm disease hadn't been detected in NA until 1928.

 

[mattfc]

Have you looked at Accoya (http://www.accoya.com/about-accoya/)

That with micro porous paint will last a long time

 

[leakyroof]

Have you looked at Accoya (http://www.accoya.com/about-accoya/)

That with micro porous paint will last a long time

  Very interesting material.  Have you worked with it before?
Also, I caught the brief disclaimer in the Working -with-it Section that you need to use only Stainless Steel fasteners due to the Acidic nature of the product from using Acetic Acid to treat it all the way through the wood, and not just a surface treatment.
So, with that in mind, does that mean you need to use only T316 Stainless to overcome the acid residue in the wood?
Or, will cheaper grades of Stainless Steel work, like t304 or T305?
I'd still like to try some out though.  [tongue]

 

[JPF Woodworking]

With all due respect I think you are over thinking this project. I would agree with Tim and go with straight grain pine and spend more time carefully milling, pre-priming all cuts, two coats of finished paint will last a long time. Typically, trim will hold up longer than say side wall shingled because it is not overly effected by moisture moving in and out of the building.

I would also suggest staying away from Windsor One and other such products as these are often "finger-jointed" which is only asking for trouble. There is a product called P-5 which is both pressure treated and primed, guaranteed not to rot ( and no finger joints). But I think PT for trim boards is a bit over the top unless the trim is close to grade.

I also realize that many believe the PVC is the way to go but I remain pretty skeptical of this material, even after using it extensively on a number of projects. With experience and careful milling, etc. you can get great results but I worry about ultraviolet rays and extreme temperatures that sometimes occur in alcoves, under soffits and in otherwise south facing areas of the building. I believe that PVC will never hold up as well as properly prepared solid wood. At lest to this point, history has proven the long lasting resiliency of wood. 

 

[awil66]

Exactly what JPF said.

 

[mattfc]

Re the accoya, not yet personally though have spoken to a few professional joiners who love it, as machines easily, and has very little shrinkage, so great for windows and doors. Ironmongery wise would have thought 304 is fine, it's like oak from that perspective.

I am in the uk, so damp is what causes us problems, in Switzerland for example you get many buildings in the mountains made of larch which is left to blacken by the sun, they are 100s of years old, but even they get cold and snow it's much drier.

 

[leakyroof]

With all due respect I think you are over thinking this project. I would agree with Tim and go with straight grain pine and spend more time carefully milling, pre-priming all cuts, two coats of finished paint will last a long time. Typically, trim will hold up longer than say side wall shingled because it is not overly effected by moisture moving in and out of the building.

I would also suggest staying away from Windsor One and other such products as these are often "finger-jointed" which is only asking for trouble. There is a product called P-5 which is both pressure treated and primed, guaranteed not to rot ( and no finger joints). But I think PT for trim boards is a bit over the top unless the trim is close to grade.

I also realize that many believe the PVC is the way to go but I remain pretty skeptical of this material, even after using it extensively on a number of projects. With experience and careful milling, etc. you can get great results but I worry about ultraviolet rays and extreme temperatures that sometimes occur in alcoves, under soffits and in otherwise south facing areas of the building. I believe that PVC will never hold up as well as properly prepared solid wood. At lest to this point, history has proven the long lasting resiliency of wood. 

The OP is not overthinking this.
People like myself who started talking about all the different materials out there DID sort of hijack the thread in a way, but lots of interesting material that I've never heard of much, or at all, was posted about, and discussed.

 

[unityroad]

I would use cypress. Clear boards will last. Plastic wood is not a wise choice. Plastic moves to much. Other types of so-called stable man made stuff is finger joints, glued up stuff. Doing a large job in pitts pa. Most of the wood is white pine. Remarkable how well it held up. However the wood is pretty much knot free. The structure was built around 1860. If its available to you find a local sawyer. They can help you. Good luck with your project.  [wink]