I would definitely second the 735 suggestion. I bought the planer second hand in a package with the stand, but found the stand not to be that great in terms of storage and mobility maximization (like you, I run my shop out of the garage), so I built my own mobile cabinet and added a
folding extension table for longer boards. You can also add a Shelix cutterhead, which produces a much superior finish, vastly extends the life of the cutters, and lowers the noise level to that of other woodworking machines, as opposed to the awful caterwaul the planer normally produces with the stock knives.
Since you have a track saw, you have the ability to rip a straight edge, so all we're talking about is whether you also need a jointer for achieving a flat face on the board.
Keep in mind that a planer can double as a jointer if you build a planer sled.
I have never owned a jointer, but don't suffer in any way as a result, and I build the vast majority of the time starting from rough lumber -- I guess I spend a bit more time on the front end dressing the wood, but that's it. Mainly I work by hand to joint with either a scrub or fore/jack plane. It actually doesn't take a great deal of skill to joint a board by this method -- you just need to get one side reasonably (but not perfectly) even, and then you can send it through the planer to establish a truly flat reference surface on the other side.
When doing a lot of longer boards, you can set up a router sled. I work now with the Woodpeckers slab milling jig, which can be put away and compactly stored when not in use. It's not cheap, but they now have an intermediate version specifically for jointing boards. But it's a relatively simple matter to build your own version.
I can't comment on the functionality of smaller bench top jointers, but I feel like it would not be worth it if you plan on working regularly with wider or longer boards.