Woodpecker Auto-Line Drill guide

[Birdhunter]

I received my Woodpeckers Auto-Line drill guide yesterday and have been playing with it.

Overall, it is well made and functions smoothly. Locating hole positions relies on lining up cross hairs on the base with the intended position. Works well.

The depth positioning stop is rock solid. I did recommend to Woodpeckers that they etch graduation markers on the stop rod.

The fence is also rock solid and can be positioned in a wide variety of useful ways.

The guide can be tippy with a drill mounted. I used a CSX so the tool was not as tippy as it would have been with a heavy drill.

I tried drilling a hole through a dowel. Perfect center!

My test drills were only 1/8". If I was using a big bit or a Forstner, I'd find a way to clamp the tool to the wood.

I ordered the base model and subsequently ordered the extra rods and flip stops. I can now see how useful they would be in making repeated holes.

I wish they had offered a fitted Sustainer for the tool.

Bottom line, the tool is expensive, but is well made and functions beautifully.

 

[Stan Tillinghast]

Birdhunter, I have a question:

Do the centering pin storage holes tapped into the base go all the way through? That is, could they be used to fasten on a sub-base, say out of polycarbonate, to make the base less tippy?
Once again I will use my Emily Litella voice, "Never mind!"
Of course they go through, otherwise they wouldn't center.

 

[Cheese]

[big grin] [big grin]

[attachimg=1]

 

[Dr. P. Venkman]

Would a sub base raise the crosshairs enough to make them hard to read? I suppose it would depend on the thickness, but that would be a concern of mine with a sub base?

 

[chrisrosenb]

Would a sub base raise the crosshairs enough to make them hard to read? I suppose it would depend on the thickness, but that would be a concern of mine with a sub base?

Cut the opening in the sub base the same size as the drill guide base. Then extend the cross hair lines down through the sub base opening.

 

[Birdhunter]

Again, with a light drill, I was able to counteract any tipping with hand pressure on the base.

 

[Cheese]

Cut the opening in the sub base the same size as the drill guide base. Then extend the cross hair lines down through the sub base opening.

Ya exactly...I'd make the base out of 3/8" thick acrylic and then extend the scribe lines down the full thickness of the acrylic. That way they index easily, accurately & quickly with the WP scribe lines. I'd also probably highlight the scribe lines with some black Sharpe ink to increase the visibility.

 

[Steveng57]

To make it more stable, one can attach the fence, and use it in an 'outrigger' mode.  That is, install the fence rods, but rotate the metal fence itself 180 degrees to the vertical (the top is now the bottom and vice-versa) so that it is flush with the bottom of the guide itself. 

Then you have a super solid extension that is flat to your workpiece to hold on to.  Works great.

 

[Bob D.]

To make it more stable, one can attach the fence, and use it in an 'outrigger' mode.  That is, install the fence rods, but rotate the metal fence itself 180 degrees to the vertical (the top is now the bottom and vice-versa) so that it is flush with the bottom of the guide itself. 

Then you have a super solid extension that is flat to your workpiece to hold on to.  Works great.

You could also use the inverted fence as a clamping point to help secure the drill guide. That way your clamp does not interfere with drilling operation.